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Red-headed rock agama
- Agama agama

The Red-headed rock agama (Agama agama) It is one of the most colored lizards that we can find, since even the females are quite colorful. They are desert terrarium animals like the Pogona, with whom they can also coexist perfectly.
Red-headed rock agama
Red-headed rock agama – Jason Pratt, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Content

Characteristics

The Red-headed rock agama has a very marked color change, but it is only visible during the day. At night, the look of a Red-headed rock agama is uniformly gray. According to your mood, the Red-headed rock agama changes its color.

The females., juveniles and lower-ranking males have brown to gray bodies. Dominant males are recognized by their flattened steel-blue or olive-green body and yellow head and tail., about orange to red. Depending on the subspecies, head color spreads over anterior body. The males acquire their splendid colors when they have warmed up in an elevated place during the day.

During gestation, females show yellow to orange spots on flanks and turquoise spots on head. The tail, long and round, does not drop, unlike numerous iguanas or of the Skinks.

Its size varies between 13 and 30 full length cm. Males are usually 7,5 to 12 cm longer than average female.

Behavior

Red-headed rock agama
Agama agama at the Schmiding Zoo in Schmiding near Bad Schallerbach, Austria – Michael Gäbler, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The Red-headed rock agama lives in colonies with a dominant male in a limited area. Group size can be up to 25 individuals. At dawn, group members are activated. During the day, the dominant male usually stays in a high place and shows his color.

Yet Red-headed rock agama also likes to warm up on a high place in the scorching sun. Stand on front legs and stretch body, and occasionally the tail, diagonally up. When a sexually mature young male changes color, is expelled by the dominant male and has to find his own territory. In a fight with a rival, the fighting male's head turns brown and white spots appear on the body. The males emit hissing sounds and try to strike the opponent's head with their tail.. But, before doing it, adopt a threatening posture. They shake their heads back and forth, lift the body off the ground and unfold the skin folds of the throat.

The “Red-headed rock agama” in captivity

Terrarium

In its original habitat, the Red-headed rock agama live in groups of several animals. This condition must also be maintained in the terrarium.

The terrarium for him Red-headed rock agama must have very generous dimensions for a couple, or better, one male with two females, since the Red-headed rock agama captured in the wild have a pronounced flight reflex, apart from great mobility. So, dimensions must be at least 200 cm long x 100 cm deep x 150 centimeters tall.

As the Red-headed rock agama he is very hungry for sun, must be brightly lit, of course with UV, temperatures should be 26-32°C with a basking point per animal up to 38°C. Humidity during the day should be at a constant level. The humidity during the day should be 40-50%, but it should be sprayed every morning and every night.

The terrarium must be provided with a sand mixture suitable for digging as a substrate, as well as various stones and branches to climb, in order to provide the animals with sufficient variety.

Diet

as food, live insects come into question, they must be pollinated regularly, if possible you have to feed many ants, which unfortunately is hardly possible without raising, in any case the diet should be as varied as possible.

Reproduction

The Red-headed rock agama (Agama agama) it's hard to breed

In the wild, mating usually occurs before the rainy season, but it is probably less due to the time of year than to the increased food supply, so maybe you could try to provoke mating in the terrarium by giving more food and spraying with special intensity. If this is successful, which, as I have already said, would be a very lucky case, the eggs are incubated at about 30°C and around 70% of humidity during 60-90 days.

For sale "Red-headed rock agama"

First of all, I would like to say that almost all animals found in trade or exchanges are wild caught, and that it takes a lot of intuition to keep these animals, and wild-caught animals in general, unfortunately most of the animals that are sold die due to improper care, and only very rarely are hatchlings successful in the terrarium, so I would advise anyone who is not really versed in terraristics not to buy them, I know that animals are beautiful, but precisely for this reason we must try to protect them.

The price of a "Red-headed rock agama" in the exotic animal trade ranges from 20 – 25 EUR.

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Saharan spiny-tailed lizard
- Uromastyx geyri

The Saharan spiny-tailed lizard it is a relatively small and slender species for the genus, with an average total length (including the queue) of about 34 cm..
Saharan spiny-tailed lizard
Saharan spiny-tailed lizard, Flower Gardens Hirschstetten in Vienna, Austria.

Content

Origin

The Saharan spiny-tailed lizard (Uromastyx geyri) is a lizard native to the north of Mali, southern Algeria and northern Niger. Two different color shapes are known (red or yellow).

Characteristics

The Saharan spiny-tailed lizard it is a relatively small and slender species for the genus, with an average total length (including the queue) of about 34 cm.. This lizard is usually beige or orange with lighter spots.

It is one of the brightest colored species in the genus. Uromastyx. There are two colors of the Uromastyx geyri, the variety “red” and “yellow”, being the color its only difference.

The variety red it is often reddish in color almost solid to orange neon pumpkin, and the yellow phase is in or near a neon range. Females are a paler color than males, showing more variations of tan coloration and much less coloration in the belly, as well as less vivid patterns, most females have a simple “freckle” in the back.

The Saharan spiny-tailed lizard are medium-sized lizards, many of them with an average of 28-36 cm of total length and a weight of 250 grams or more as adults.

The "Saharan spiny-tailed lizard" in captivity

Terrarium

The Saharan spiny-tailed lizard they are very territorial in nature and keeping one male and several females is only possible in a large terrarium. It is best to keep them in pairs..

  • temperatures during the day: from 28° to 35°C (locally approx. 45°C)
  • Night temperatures: 18-22°C
  • Humidity: 40-60
  • Minimum size of the terrarium: starting at 140 x 100 x 120 cm for a couple

The terrarium must be furnished with numerous stones, some climbing possibilities such as thick branches, cork or bark tubes, which also offer many hiding places. To maintain this species properly, the terrarium needs a substrate of at least 20-30 height cm. Spray a little several times a week.

Illumination

For your well-being, good lighting and ultraviolet light are necessary (30% of UVA rays and 10-12% UVB), as well as a place to sunbathe. UV radiation is extremely important and absolutely necessary. In the case of females, it is absolutely necessary to have a suitable place for laying eggs or with several possibilities.

A lighting period of up to 14 hours a day (except during hibernation).

Hibernation

You have to let the animals hibernate for three or four months. As such, the Saharan spiny-tailed lizard they need between 12 y 18°C. Hibernation is very important for animals to regulate their bodily functions and stay healthy. It's also a good way to prevent obesity.

Food

The diet of the Saharan spiny-tailed lizard includes banana, vine leaves, dandelion, margaritas, clover, pamplinas, sometimes kitchen herbs and grains like corn, rice, millet, sunflower seeds and others. Young animals feed up to a 75% of animals. These may include, crickets, grasshopper, cockroaches, sometimes zophobas and other live food. Adults should be fed little or no animal food to prevent fatty degeneration..

no lettuce, iceberg lettuce or similar, since its calcium-phosphorus content is unfavorable. And cabbage or spinach should only be provided rarely because of oxalic acid.…

Fruit should also be provided only in moderation., if it is accepted.

Additional vitamin and mineral supplements are recommended.

For liquid intake, you can place a bowl of water that is cleaned daily.

Reproduction

Winter rest is very important for the young. The "Saharan spiny-tailed lizard" lay eggs. These should not be incubated too wet, otherwise they will easily turn into fungi. Young Uromastyx geyri can be raised together in a group for up to two years, provided they are compatible. It is absolutely necessary to take enough calcium and vitamin supplements.

For sale "Saharan spiny-tailed lizard"

The price of a Saharan spiny-tailed lizard, captive bred, at the exotic animal market, ranges between 100 – 120 EUR.

Video "Saharan spiny-tailed lizard"

Uromastyx Geyri oranges eating flowers 03 2014

Alternative names:

1. Geyr’s dabb lizard, Geyr’s spiny-tailed lizard, Sahara mastigure, Saharan spiny-tailed lizard, Yellow Niger Uromastyx, Saharan yellow uromastyx. (English).
2. Lézard de Geyr, Lézard à queue épineuse de Geyr, Mastigure du Sahara, Lézard à queue épineuse du Sahara, Uromastyx jaune du Niger, Uromastyx jaune du Sahara. (French).
3. Geyr-Krusteneidechse, Geyr-Stacheleidechse, Sahara-Mastigure, Sahara-Stacheleidechse, Gelber Niger-Uromastyx, Sahara-Gelb-Uromastyx (German).
4. Lagarto do Geyr, lagarto de cauda espinhosa do Geyr, mastigure do Sara, lagarto de cauda espinhosa do Sara, Uromastyx amarelo do Níger, uromastyx amarelo do Sara (Portuguese).
5. Lagarto de cola espinosa de Geyr, Lagarto de cola espinosa de Geyr, Mastigure del Sahara, Lagarto de cola espinosa del Sahara, Uromastyx amarillo del Níger, Uromastyx amarillo del Sahara (español).

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Panther chameleon
- Furcifer pardalis

The most fascinating feature that has the Panther chameleon is its extraordinarily vibrant coloration.
Panther chameleon
Panther chameleon – David.Monniaux, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Content

Origin / Distribution

The Furcifer pardalis, also known as Panther chameleon, are native to the island of Madagascar. They are distributed throughout the island, but they are locally abundant on the coasts of the center-east, northeast, north and northwest. The Furcifer pardalis they have also been introduced in areas such as Reunion and Mauritius.

Characteristics / Appearance

The most fascinating feature that has the Panther chameleon is its extraordinarily vibrant coloration. Adult chameleons are sexually dimorphic and males are recognized by their larger size, the swollen base of the tail indicating the presence of hemipenes, and have a wide range of coloration and patterns. Females are identified by being more uniformly pale green or pink in color, smaller, with a thinner tail base and sometimes with eggs detectable through the walls of the body. Adults can reach a length of 23 cm.. It is much more difficult to distinguish the sex of juvenile chameleons of less than 6 months of age due to their smaller size, its dull coloration and lack of hemipenial protrusion in males.

The coloration and pattern of the Panther chameleon varies significantly depending on its origin or location. Normally, the Panther chameleon of the Malagasy island Nosy Be are bluish green, emerald green or have a turquoise body. Northwest coast males are usually bright pink, with a yellowish-white stripe along the sides; this is commonly known as “the pink panthers”. Males may also be orange, red and dark green, with a large variation of spots, streaks and/or bands around the head and eyes.

The Panther chameleon lack a vomeronasal organ, an auxiliary olfactory sensory organ found in many animals. They also have no outer or middle ear, suggesting chameleons might be deaf. Chameleons have specialized tongue-like feet called zygodactyls.. On each foot, all five fingers are merged into a two-digit group and a three-digit group. On the front feet, the group of three toes is on the inside of the foot, and the group of two fingers is on the outside. This is reversed in the back foot, which gives them a secure and strong grip and allows them to maneuver horizontally or vertically in a wide variety of vegetation or structures. These specialized feet allow chameleons to hold on tightly to narrow branches.. The sharp claws on each finger help them climb and grip surfaces they can't hold on to tightly., like tree trunks.

Habitat

The Panther chameleon it inhabits mainly dry deciduous lowland forests, near belts of thin trees that line rivers and roads. This particular species seems to prefer open habitats that are not excessively shaded.. Scientists believe this is due to the need to colonize open spaces where they can sunbathe and males can use visual cues aimed at females. (during courtship) or for males to establish territories. Male panther chameleons also have a greater elevation range than females, most likely for territorial reasons.

Behavior

In general, the social structure of the Panther chameleon It is little known. It is known that the Furcifer pardalis, like most chameleons, is solitary and territorial, regardless of age or gender. Males tend to have larger distribution areas than females. Males often do not tolerate other males invading their shrub or tree of residence and will defend their territory by participating in an exhibition., chasing and possibly seriously injuring an intruding male. Hostility increases during the breeding season. It is not known whether females of Panther chameleon are intolerant of other females in general or only at nesting sites.

Chameleon eyes do not contain the melanin rods and pigments needed for night vision, which is why Furcifer pardalis is diurnal.

Reproduction

The females of Panther chameleon gestate fertilized eggs during 2 or 3 weeks. The young usually take between 6 months and a year to come out of the eggs. From that moment on, the offspring take others 6 months until they are sexually mature and have developed the coloration and size of an adult.

Courtship usually begins with displays by males. This usually includes the display of bright colors and a series of head movements that shake as they move towards the female.. Some males move slowly, with a choppy or spasmodic step, but others move very quickly and can be aggressive with females. Females that are not receptive or are gravid may run away or face the male chasing them with their mouths open while theirs., they stand on the hind legs and swing to discourage the male's advances. If the female seems interested, the male will mount it by grabbing its flanks and it will be placed to the right or left of its body.. Copulation takes place when the male everteja the closest of his two hemipens and introduces it into the cloaca of the female. Some species copulate for a few minutes and others for several hours, after which they usually follow different paths.

There is little information on the mating systems of the Panther chameleon, but some researchers have observed mating behavior consistent with serial polygyny. Studies in captivity of the Furcifer pardalis have shown that males have wider ranges than females. Females usually stay in a small area and are visited by males during the breeding season. This species has a slight pair bond, which consists of the males deciding to remain in the territory of the female for a period after breeding and probably defend this female from other males. Females that have already mated have shown aggressive behaviors towards successive males that walk through the territory. The successful male stays with the female for a brief period after mating and then continues to roam, probably looking for another partner.

Polygynous mating system

In most places, reproduction occurs between January and May, but this may vary geographically. Females in some areas can breed several times a year. After mating, the period of hard gestation of 3 to 6 weeks. Females dig burrows by digging with their front legs and then backing up on them to deposit 10 to 46 eggs. When they finish, bury eggs, fill in the tunnel and trample the earth to hide the location of the nest. Some females drag leaves and twigs over the place. This is the last act of motherhood of a chameleon, and their offspring shall be independent at birth. The young come out by opening a star-shaped opening at the end of the eggshell with the egg tooth., a sharp, calcified bump at the tip of the upper jaw that then comes off. The young weigh between 0,25 and 0,75 g at birth. Juveniles reach reproductive maturity at 6 months of age.

Females and males of the Furcifer pardalis show no more parental investment than creating and depositing eggs. The mother will try to protect the buried eggs from predators by hiding the location of the nest with twigs and leaves., but that is their last participation and the offspring will be independent immediately after hatching.

The females of Panther chameleon invest a lot of time and energy in making sure their young develop fully. The success of chameleon pups depends largely on the adequate amount of vitamin D from the mother during gestation. Ultraviolet light is known to (UV) the sun produces vitamin D in the skin of many vertebrates, like panther chameleons. UV-induced vitamin D serves as a signal in the body to help adjust the calcium-phosphorus balance in the body. Its main function is to stimulate calcium uptake from the intestine and reduce calcium reabsorption from bone. Eggs do not hatch if the mother does not have an adequate amount of vitamin D, either by exposure to UV rays or by food intake, because you can't supply enough vitamin D to your eggs to make it easier for developing embryos to form their skeleton. An important discovery made in recent years was that females seem to be able to perceive their internal vitamin D status., recognize an external source of UV rays and voluntarily expose themselves to that source when they have a vitamin D deficiency. On the other hand, choose to avoid elevated UV sources when they have enough vitamin D.

Food

The Furcifer pardalis they are considered opportunistic hunters because they wait for prey to pass within reach of their long tongues. They feed mainly on terrestrial invertebrates and, very rarely, of plant material. They have the ability to turn and focus their eyes separately to observe two different objects simultaneously.. This allows them to have an arc of vision 360 degrees around their body while remaining completely still and camouflaged. When the prey is in sight, both eyes can focus in the same direction, providing acute stereoscopic vision and depth perception.

Chameleons have very unique languages specialized in capturing their prey.. An extensive study carried out in the year 2000 revealed the complexities of chameleon language functioning. Prey capture was often attributed only to adherence to the lingual pad., but now scientists believe that the speed and shape of the tongue also create a suction device.. The hyoid bone is a piece of cartilage that extends into the mouth from the throat bones. (called hyaline apparatus) and is attached to the long tongue of the chameleon. This is where the tongue rests when not in use. The tongue is thrown from the hyoid bone with the use of ringed muscles on the tongue. This complex structure is made up of cartilage, muscles, nerves, glands and tissues that work together to create an incredibly fast and effective tongue to grab your food.

Life expectancy

Although males can exceed five years of age in captivity, most Panther chameleon wilderness only survives one or two years after maturity. Females have a shorter half-life in the wild and in captivity due to the stress of reproduction and oviposition..

Threats to the species

The Panther chameleon is one of the most sought-after chameleon species in the international pet trade due to its beautiful coloration and the success of its captive breeding..

Tighter trade quotas have been applied and recent export levels are within a sustainable range. There is currently little risk to this chameleon species, apart from the threat of continued habitat loss and modification.

The local population uses relatively little of the Furcifer pardalis within its range. Chameleons are not used very often in the local kitchen. But, Furcifer pardalis is caught and sold in the international trade of live animals. United States, Europe and Asia are the main participants in this traffic.

The "Panther chameleon" in captivity

The terrarium

The Panther chameleon is kept in a tall terrarium, but does not require as much ventilation as other chameleon species. These animals must be kept individually. The terrarium must have at least 100 x 60 x 150cm. Higher would be better.

Food

The diet of the Panther chameleon consists mainly of insects such as crickets, crickets, grasshopper, flies, fruit flies, cockroaches, rarely wax moth caterpillars… but be careful when feeding him!! These animals gain weight easily and can develop gout. It also, feeds with leaves, colorful flowers, or possibly some fruit.

no lettuce, iceberg lettuce or similar, since its calcium-phosphorus content is unfavorable. And cabbage or spinach should rarely be fed oxalic acid….

Additional vitamin and mineral supplements are recommended.

Lighting and temperature

The temperature in the terrarium of the Panther chameleon should be 22-28°C (locally 35-40°C) during the day and between 16-22°C at night. The humidity should be 60-80% and around the 100% At night.

In the terrarium of a Panther chameleon there must be numerous possibilities to climb, preferably a tree (Ficus benjamina), remained, other plants, cork tubes and bark, which also offer hiding places.

Good lighting and ultraviolet light (30% of UVA rays and 5-10% UVB) are necessary for your well-being, as well as a place to sunbathe. UV radiation is very important and necessary. In the case of females, it is necessary to provide a suitable place for laying eggs or several possibilities.

A spray system can be installed in the terrarium, that sprays water repeatedly (about three to four times a day), or a nebulizer can be installed in the terrarium. For fluid intake, a dropper must be installed that is always cleaned.

Hibernation

The Panther chameleon it is usually more inactive in winter and here you can simulate a kind of hibernation by lighting. Reduce daily lighting time by two to three hours over a period of about two months. Hibernation is very important for animals to regulate body functions and stay healthy. But here you have to observe the animals well to see if they are prepared for rest.. This can be noticed in the behavior when the animal calms down on its own in autumn..

Reproduction

The Panther chameleon puts up to 46 eggs. They are quite aggressive animals, so you have to be careful when mating. Raising young animals individually in small terrariums.

It is essential to provide enough calcium and vitamins in breeding.

Housing conditions

To keep the Furcifer pardalis (Panther chameleon) we recommend creating the following conditions. Especially regarding the minimum size, we ask you to keep in mind that optimal conditions can only be achieved in much larger terrariums.

  • temperatures during the day: 22° to 28 °C (locally 35-40°C)
  • Night temperatures: 16-22°C
  • Humidity: 60-80% during the day and approx. 100% At night)
  • Minimum size of the terrarium: from 120x60x150cm for an animal (better higher)

Buy one "Panther chameleon"

The price of a "Panther chameleon" at the exotic animal market, ranges between 300 – 500 EUR.

Images "Panther chameleon"

Furcifer pardalis, photographed at Reunion Island Female panther chameleon (Furcifer pardalis), Le Tampon, Reunion Island - B.navez, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons Furcifer pardalis - Panther chameleon - Struggle - Eric Mathieu, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons Panther chameleon - Photographer, Alain Fossé - Wikipedia Panther chameleon at Zurich Zoo, Switzerland - Marc Staub, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons Furcifer pardalis (male) (photo from Reunion Island) - See page for author, Copyrighted free use, via Wikimedia Commons Berkenhof Tropical Zoo - Donar Reiskoffer, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons Ambilobe panther chameleon, Shedd Aquarium, Chicago - Daniel Schwen, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Videos "Panther chameleon"

Furcifer pardalis ambilobe
Chamaeleon vivarium for Furcifer pardalis

Alternative names:

1. Panther chameleon (English).
2. Caméléon panthère, Endormi (French).
3. Pantherchamäleon (German).
4. Camaleão-pantera (Portuguese).
5. "Camaleón pantera", Endormi de La Reunión, Lendormi, Zendormi (español).

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Angel Island chuckwalla
- Sauromalus hispidus

The Angel Island chuckwalla it is the second largest species of the genus Sauromalus (chuckwallas), reaching 44 cm of body length and 64 full length cm
Angel Island chuckwalla
A common collared lizard, (Crotaphytus collaris) sitting in a Angel Island chuckwalla (Sauromalus hispidus;) Reptilium Landau, Germany – H. Zell, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Content

Origin / Distribution

The Angel Island chuckwalla (Sauromalus hispidus) it is found in the northwestern islands of the Gulf of California (Mexico): Guardian angel, Granite, Mejia, Pond, Saint Lawrence North, South San Lorenzo and smaller islets in the Bay of Los Angeles (Horse's head, Window, Louse, Arrow, Mitlán and Coronado). These islands make the west cool and mild in winter and hot in summer..

Characteristics / Appearance

The Angel Island chuckwalla it is the second largest species of the genus Sauromalus (chuckwallas), reaching 44 cm of body length and 64 full length cm, and weighing up to 1,4 kg. It is considered a gigantic species, as it is two to three times the size of their counterparts on the continent. Its body color is a dark brown color with black transverse bands that fade into a solid darker brown to black color as the animal ages..

Habitat

The vegetation is dominated by xerophytic plants. Characteristic are the large cardon cactus (Pachycereus pringlei) and creosote bushes (Larrea tridentata).

The Angel Island chuckwalla it is present in all the smaller islands, but generally prefers the vicinity of rocky areas where animals find their hiding places.

But, due to the influence of the sea, humidity is generally higher than in mainland parts of the Sonoran Desert and rises sharply at night, with occasional early morning mists. Extreme temperatures are a minimum of 8 °C and a maximum of 43 C.

Behavior

When two adults meet, they occasionally flatten on their sides and threaten each other with typical “shoving” of iguanas and head movements. But, the animals do not come any closer and move to another rock after a short time.

Also striking is the general absence of any flight reaction towards humans..

Once the morning mist has cleared (between the 8 and 10 in the morning), the Angel Island chuckwalla appears on rocks to warm up in the sun. After the first sunbaths in the morning, many of the observed animals migrate to the canyon, where they feast on growing strawberries.

In the afternoon there is a second phase of activity, in which many animals go back into the canyon and look for food there.

Threats to the species

State of conservation ⓘ


Endangered in danger ⓘ (UICN)ⓘ

The Angel Island chuckwalla (Sauromalus hispidus) has recently been assessed by the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species in 2018. Sauromalus hispidus is listed as In danger under criterion B1b

The "Angel Island chuckwalla" in captivity

The islands of the distribution area of ​​the Angel Island chuckwalla have been protected by the Mexican government through the decree of the 2 in August of 1978 as “Reserve and Refuge for Migratory Birds and Wild Fauna”. It also, Mexican legislation prohibits in principle the capture of reptiles for commercial purposes from 1952.

The Environmental Protection Law of 1988 establishes in principle that the taking of reptiles from the wild for commercial purposes is permitted under certain conditions, but until 1993 at least, there were no application guidelines for it, and the Mexican government had not issued a single permit for Baja California or the islands of the Gulf of California.

In the Decade of 1970, the giant chuckwallas (mainly Sauromalus varius, but also Sauromalus hispidus) were captured for the pet trade. MELLINK (1993) points out that illegal collection activities continue and that this also affects the Angel Island chuckwalla. While the Sauromalus varius is included in Appendix I of the WA, There is no international protection status for the Angel Island chuckwalla (Sauromalus hispidus).

It follows that at least most of the giant chuckwallas circulating in the terrarium trade must be illegally harvested animals.; this applies to all animals originating from Baja California or from the islands of the Gulf of California. The Angel Island chuckwalla (Sauromalus hispidus) it is rare in the international pet trade, but regularly shows up there at fairly high prices as claimed pups (in july 2001 the species was offered by two dealers in Germany). In U.S.A. the Angel Island chuckwalla (Sauromalus hispidus) is maintained and reproduced by at least three private owners.

The terrarium

Angel Island chuckwalla
Angel Island chuckwalla – Reptilium Landau, Germany – H. Zell, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The data indicated here are those corresponding to HEIKO WERNING, a breeder of "Angel Island chuckwalla"

Temperatures, illumination, heating

All the animals were always kept together in the same terrarium.. Initially I housed them in a terrarium of 150 x 200 x 200 cm. (wedged in a corner of the flat with diagonal walls, hence it only has average measurements), which was lit by an HQI burner of 150 W y luz natural (a “terrarium wall” it was an outside window).

The “terrarium wall” it was an outside window). a focus of 100 W, shining from a distance of about 30 cm on a platform of artificial rock, served as a hot island. Another local heat source was the HQI lamp ballast, which was mounted on the ground and covered by a metal plate. In both heat islands the temperatures were 40-50 C, The ambient temperature in the terrarium varied between 25 and 35 C, depending on the measuring point. In summer, temperatures could rise above (up to about 40 °C ambient temperature), in autumn and spring they were below (up to about 20 °C ambient temperature). At night, values ​​dropped at room temperature (normally 18-22 C). The duration of artificial lighting was 14 constant daily hours outside the winter rest period; the total length of the day varied throughout the year depending on daylight hours in Berlin due to light from outside. In winter, artificial light sources were turned off for a period of 8 to 12 weeks, so that the values ​​dropped to room temperature throughout the day and only natural light from outside illuminated the terrarium.

Furniture and design

The terrarium was furnished with artificial rock constructions made of Styrofoam, which were covered with wood glue and then sanded. The artificial rocks manufactured in this way turned out to be quite resistant., even to the mighty claws of the chuckwallas. Several “cracks” vertical and horizontal in the polystyrene foam served as a hiding place for the lizards, what they used at night, sometimes during the day when it was hot in summer and to hibernate in autumn and winter. The slits were designed in such a way as to provide a comfortable shelter for the animals., but at the same time they always offered contact surfaces from above and below. Sand available on the market was used as substrate., and the set-up was completed with a large climbing branch that almost filled the room and reached just below the HQI spotlight.

In 1999 I move house, and as the new terrarium originally intended for the chuckwallas could not be completed at the moment, they had to move to a much smaller enclosure. They are now kept in a terrarium of 150 x 70 x l00 cm, with whom he had already had a good experience in the maintenance and breeding of common chuckwallas (Sauromalus obesus BAIRD, 1859) (WERNING 1998) and that animals still inhabit today.

Two fluorescent lamps 60 W, a focus of 60 W shining on an artificial rock platform from a distance of 30 cm., and UV lamp “Osram Ultra Vitalux” of 300 W, which is mounted on the lid and burns irregularly once or twice a day for 1-4 hours from a distance of about 60 cm., serve as lighting. This terrarium is also mainly equipped with artificial rocks (made of polystyrene and polyurethane foam, again painted with wood glue and then sanded). Borders and cork boards serve as additional structural and concealing elements. The temperature and lighting regime is similar to that described above, with the exception that there is hardly any natural light.

The tenarium is watered at irregular intervals at night.

Water is usually available in a small bowl. Animals have never been observed drinking.

Food

Angel Island chuckwalla
Photos of Sauromalus from | Depositphotos®

According to the herbivorous way of life, I feed my chuckwallas almost exclusively with plant foods. They are fed an average of three to five times a day at will, that is to say, animals receive the amount of food they eat throughout the day. The main ingredient is lettuce, which has a very high calcium content compared to other leaf lettuce. From the beginning, constituted between 2/3 and 80% of the ration. If this lettuce is not available in season, a mixture of green lettuce, iceberg lettuce and other leaf lettuce (tradename “mixed lettuce”) served as main food.

This basic diet is supplemented with other plant foods (mainly banana, Cucumber, tomato, chickweed, Apple, strawberries, grapes, carrots); occasionally I also offer food for animals (young mice, grasshopper, zophoba larvae). Juveniles still do not accept animal food; only at the age of 2-3 years showed for the first time a cautious interest. The Sauromalus hispidus adults from about five years of age, on the other hand, they pounce on all offered food with great avidity and clearly prefer it to any type of vegetable food.

Plant feeds were generally mixed with a mixture of vitamins and minerals. There was no exact dose, but they mixed 1-2 ml of the preparation with the green food in approximately three out of four meals as a well-tested empirical value from the care of the Dipsosaurus dorsalis and Common chuckwalla Sauromalus ater.

I feared giving the animals too many vitamins and reduced the addition to every one or two weeks, but I also offered them crushed egg shells and pieces of cuttlefish so that they could meet their calcium needs on their own.. After wintering 1999/2000, clear symptoms (hind leg lameness, slight deformation of the bones) showed that three of the four juveniles of 1997 suffered from a calcium deficiency. A diagnostic examination with rontographs confirmed the suspicion. Two animals died shortly after, one of them could be saved with the administration of vitamin D by the veterinarian. Hind leg injury healed almost completely, the animal returns to normal mobility and shows only slight changes in movement compared to other animals. Since then, the animal has been fed again with a mixture of vitamins and minerals, as described above.

Mating

Angel Island chuckwalla
Angel Island chuckwalla – colombia.inaturalist.org

In winter 1999/2000 the animals hibernated from early December to early February. From April 2000, the two adult males displayed completely different behavior. They threaten each other several times a day by flattening on the side and nodding their heads. They stood facing each other, leaning towards each other, so that the two animals together formed almost a circle. after a few nods, they started hitting each other with their tails. Either one of the males ran away, or a few flicks of the tail caused one of the animals to run towards the other and try to bite, what was partially successful. The second male then fled and was chased by the winner through the tenarium for some time., sometimes for several minutes, until finally he left her and the situation relaxed for a while.

In May, these fierce fights, which in two cases resulted in smaller but bloody bite wounds, could be seen almost every hour. But, while they fed, the two males continued to ignore each other and fed together without disturbing each other. If the superior male stood directly in front of the adult female during the chase, he left the adversary and impressed his partner by nodding his head. The 15.5.2001 mating was observed. It took place on the highest rock platform in the corner of the tenaria, illuminated by spotlight. The male had bitten the female's neck in typical iguana fashion and pushed her cloaca below that of his mate.. As I only arrived during copulation, I can't tell how long it lasted. Some 60 Seconds later, the male abandoned the female and a large drop of sperm from the female came out of his cloaca. No more matings could be observed, but the rivalry between the two males remained just as intense until June, and there were repeated clashes between the two until hibernation. In 2001, on the other hand, only very isolated fights without biting attacks were observed between the males.

After observed mating, the female showed a large appetite and quickly gained visibly in body size.

The eggs were visible under the skin when the animal was at rest.. About a week before egg laying, the female began to dig in several places of the ten-ario. In the ten-arium itself there is an artificial rock cavity made of Styrofoam (a few 15 x 30 x 15 cm.), that I have now filled up 2/3 with moist potting soil. The 14.06.2000 The female laid nine eggs of about 40 x 22 mm. It remained in the cavity for about a day. Then, not only was the egg well of the cavity filled with substrate, but the female pushed all the substrate of the terrarium on the artificial cavity, so that it finally disappeared under a mountain of substrate. Eggs were removed shortly after laying and placed in a Styrofoam box converted into an incubator., as described by WERNING (1995). Once the eggs are removed, the female scratched the cavity again to close it completely. For a week or so, seemed to guard the nest cavity and continued to move material up the mountain.

The incubation substrate was moist sand., with which he had already had good experience in laying eggs in the Chacahuala del Noroeste Sauromalus ater. I adjusted the humidity of the substrate with the “sure instinct” that I had already acquired with the other Chuckwallas. The sand is moist but not wet, humidity reaches approx. 90-95 % due to evaporation above the heat source in the brood box. Half of the eggs were buried in the substrate. No light enters the incubator except during controls.

During the first four weeks I incubated at 30ºC, the remaining 6,5 weeks at 32ºC. One egg died after about four weeks for no apparent reason. He seemed to have suddenly lost tension; had softened and yielded. The opening showed that she was fertilized. another egg, after eight weeks of incubation, also collapsed a bit and was without tension. Then I increased the humidity of the substrate a little, the egg recovered after a few days and was plump and firm again.

The 01.09.2000 the first eggs hatched. The 03.09.2000 the eight pups were born. The incubation period was, Therefore, of 80 to 83 days. CARL & JoNES (1979) inform of 94-99 days to 29-31 incubation temperature ºC. In my case, all the young animals first scratched the egg, from which the clear came. Only hours later they took the head out of the egg, followed by the upper body after a few more hours. The pups took a 24 hours to finally hatch. All hatchlings still had a large yolk sac, that were completely reabsorbed during the 48 following hours. During this time I left them in the incubator. The pups measured between 5,5 and 6,1 cm. in length and between 10,1 and 12,3 cm.. So, hatchlings were much smaller than previously reported in the literature (CARL & JoNES 1979: 7,2 cm., SYLBER 1985: 7,1 cm.). Egg sizes also remained below literature values. (CARL & JoNES 1979: 44 x 29 mm, SYLBER 1985: 50 x 35 mm), the smallest clutch size known so far was given by CASE (1982) with 14. But, according to the same author, the smallest female known so far to have reproduced, with a length of 24 cm., was already considerably larger than my female with 18 cm..

Breeding

The newborn pups seemed very weak and barely moved, so I feared that they would not be viable. Once the yolk sac is completely reabsorbed, I placed them in the breeding room. In a few minutes they cheered, they ran around the tank, they caressed all the furniture and even nibbled on a piece of wood from a root.

The average breeding terrarium 100 x 60 x 50 cm and was equipped with two fluorescent lamps of 40 W and a focus of 60 W that illuminated a root from a distance of about 20 cm.. It also, juveniles were irradiated several times a week for 1-2 hours with an Osram Ultra Vitalux lamp.

The glass of the terrarium was replaced by a grid so that the UV rays were not filtered and the lamp was placed at a few 50 cm in front of tenarium. Young animals reacted immediately to radiation. They reached out and clung to the net to get as close to the radiation source as possible.. when they had enough, they gradually retreated to their hiding places.

In addition to the root mentioned, a small artificial rock from the shops and a stack of compressed cork sheets arranged in such a way that there were enough indentations to hide were used as furniture. The back and side walls are pasted over with decorative cork boards, which allowed the animals to climb the walls a little, although the little ones are already quite clumsy when climbing vertical surfaces. I initially chose quartz sand as the substrate, but after discussing with two terrarium keepers I decided to use only cellulose cloths (kitchen towels), as they both reported for their experience of death traps in young Uromastyx and Sauromalus, that had occurred due to clogging as a result of massive ingestion of sand.

feeding the little girl Angel Island chuckwalla did not cause any problems. From the first day in the breeding terrarium they ate all the vegetable food that was offered to them.. Feeding was similar to that of adults.. From the beginning, small crickets were offered, wax moth caterpillars and cockroaches for interest, but the chuckwallas ignored them. Today, they do not accept food of animal origin.

In December, the little ones chuckwallas were subjected to a “mini hibernation” three weeks with lights off and room temperature (a few 20 C).

At four months, I moved the young animals to a larger terrarium (150 x 70 x 100 cm.). So far no interactions between the animals have been observed., apart from occasional mutual nods. But, a young man lagged behind in growth. Only too late did I realize I wasn't eating enough. when i split it, he was already refusing food and died shortly after at five months. After nine months there were two more losses. One was apathetic and separated. Although he kept eating, died after a few days. The same day, another animal in the group died without any previous signs of disease. The necropsy revealed a massive salmonella infestation in both animals as the probable cause.. The swabs from the other animals showed the same results., and an antibiogram revealed the sensitivity of microorganisms to Baytril. treatment with Baytril was carried out successfully under veterinary supervision.

Buy one "Angel Island chuckwalla"

When buying a reptile with these characteristics, it is an obligation to make sure that the store where it is sold is certified and has the necessary permits according to the law so that you do not have any type of problem., if it complies and is in order, you make sure to buy an animal that is not in danger of extinction since they are surely from specialized farms for the sale of this particular species.

Please be aware and for no reason acquire animals in clandestine shops illegally or on the black market.. Since you favor the disappearance of species that are in danger of extinction.

Videos "Angel Island chuckwalla"

SAUROMAL HAIRY (chuckwalla).wmv

Angel Island Chuckwalla(chuckwala)

Alternative names:

1. Angel Island chuckwalla, Spiny chuckwalla (English).
2. Chuckwalla épineux (French).
3. Angel Island Chuckwalla, Stachelige Chuckwalla (German).
4. Chuckwalla espinhosa, Angel island chuckwalla, Ilha dos Anjos chuckwalla (Portuguese).
5. "Iguana espinosa", Chacahuala de la Isla Angel de la Guarda (español).

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Green anole
- Anolis carolinensis

Very nice tree lizard also called American chameleon, due to the ability to change color depending on the environment.
Green anole
Anolis carolinensis, male – Danny S., CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Content

Characteristics

Like most of the lizards in his family, the Green anole shows pronounced sexual dimorphism.

The male of the Green anole measure about 20 cm when fully grown, with a head-torso length of 8 cm., While the females are somewhat smaller, with a maximum of 18 cm and a head-torso length of 7 cm.. They have a slim build with a pointed head, that is very skinny, especially in the female 3-4 cm smaller.

The Green anole can move eyes independently and change color from green to brown, what has earned him the name of American chameleon. Body color changes depending on mood and activity, although it should be noted that females are usually darker than males. These may include, when the animals sunbathe, darken to absorb more heat.

The throat pouch of this species is red., what gives it its name. The common opinion that females do not have this bag in the throat is wrong. But, it is much smaller than that of the male and is hardly used. The throat pouch is opened by the hyoid apparatus in both males and females.. The average age is 3 to 5 years, but animals can easily live up to 8 years in captivity.

Origin

Originally, the Green anole comes from the southeastern United States. There it is native from Florida west, through Alabama and Louisiana, to texas, and from there to southern Oklahoma. From Oklahoma east, passing through Arkansas and Tennessee, to southern Virginia. The genetic studies of Green anole suggest that their ancestor lived in Cuba and arrived in the southeastern United States (Florida) by sea.

Another population has been found in Hawaii, but this is due to displacement by humans. There they are so widespread due to the lack of natural predators that they have become a threat to native animals.

Outside United States, colonize large areas of northeastern Mexico and several Caribbean islands. They must have reached the latter through human introduction.

They must have reached the latter through human introduction, the Green anole They must have reached the latter through human introduction. They must have reached the latter through human introduction.

Behavior

Green anole
They must have reached the latter through human introduction – They must have reached the latter through human introduction, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The Green anole lives in small groups with a clear hierarchy. They must have reached the latter through human introduction, They must have reached the latter through human introduction, They must have reached the latter through human introduction. They must have reached the latter through human introduction, They must have reached the latter through human introduction. They are shy animals that escape and are chased by many hunters. (birds Raptors, cats, etc.). But, They must have reached the latter through human introduction, They must have reached the latter through human introduction. They must have reached the latter through human introduction. But the throat bag also inflates during courtship..

The male rarely avoids a fight with his conspecifics.. The Green anole is very territorial, the first consequence of the intrusion is probably the threatening gesture of the territorial owner. Lifts throat bag and sometimes nods. If the weaker male does not run away or if the opponents are just as strong, a fight breaks out. The first attack is launched by the owner of the territory.

There are two types of males: The lightest males, which are mainly based on speed and threatening gestures with the throat bag in fights, and the heaviest males, which are mainly based on your strongest bite.
The consequences are varied., scratch injuries and bite wounds are always present. Less common are bone fractures and joint dislocations.

Diet

The Green anole actively feeds on small arthropods, like crickets, grasshopper, flies, worms, mealworms and moths. Spiders also eat. Basically, they will eat any insect that fits in their mouth. The Green anole he's an ambush hunter. When it detects a prey animal with its eyes, waits until it's in range, then jumps to it. Often catches prey from the side, but then you have to turn it upside down to swallow it, Why do anoles have no teeth?, but only small hooks with which they hold the prey. They tend to eat larger prey with their heads down..

Reproduction

Green anole
Green anole with extended dewlap – R. Colin Blenis, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

One of the most interesting behaviors of the Green anole is the courtship. When a male sees a female, he presents himself to her by his most beautiful side. It is usually bright green. The male positions himself clearly visible to the female and begins with the typical head tilt.. To enhance the effect, raise and lower the entire torso as if doing push-ups. It also, throat vane constantly folds in and out like a flashing light.

The female indicates that she is ready to mate by nodding her head., which gives rise to a brief but very beautiful mating dance between the two.

The next step is for the male to chase the female.. Once you've caught it, clings to the female's neck with a bite (bite on the neck). Mating itself lasts a few minutes. during mating, the male, still secured by neck bite, he wraps himself around the female and gets carried away by her.

The female then buries an egg in the ground.. How can sperm be stored?, can lay an egg at intervals of a few 14 days. Since he only carries one ready egg in his body at a time, the agility of the female is maintained during the gestation period. Immediately after egg laying, a distinctive slit can be seen on the female.

Depending on the temperature, fully developed young hatch after 35-40 days (approx.. 30 degrees) until 55-60 days (approx.. 20-25 degrees).

The breeding period extends from March to September.

The “Green anole” in captivity

Terrarium

Green anole
Green anole – Robert Michniewicz (edited by Ark), CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The Green anole it is relatively easy to keep in a terrarium. The most important point to remember is that you can never keep two males together.. The most important point to remember is that you can never keep two males together., The most important point to remember is that you can never keep two males together.. The most important point to remember is that you can never keep two males together., The most important point to remember is that you can never keep two males together., as otherwise she might be too stressed by the male's mating frenzy.

The most important point to remember is that you can never keep two males together., The most important point to remember is that you can never keep two males together., The most important point to remember is that you can never keep two males together.. The most important point to remember is that you can never keep two males together., The most important point to remember is that you can never keep two males together., so that the individual does not get too stressed. But, the terrarium should be structured in such a way that individual animals can avoid each other or several territories are possible.

Terrarium measurements

As the Green anole leads a farming life, the terrarium must be tall. The absolute minimum height must be 60 cm., that is to say, usable height. This does not include the substrate or lighting. For a couple of Green anole the minimum size of the terrarium is 60 x 40 x 60 (length x widht x hight), but i think you can only get by with this height if you mean the actual usable height. In any case, 80 cm or even more is better.

For a larger group of animals, the terrarium must be, of course, largest. For 4-5 animals I think 80 x 50 x 80 cm is the absolute minimum.

Terrarium Features

It is important that the terrarium tolerates the subtropical climate. So, glass terrariums are ideal. Wooden terrariums can be used without problems if the wood has been made weatherproof with a waterproof varnish. It is important to ensure that the varnish does not emit any toxic substance. Varnishes with the environmental angel in connection with the designation suitable for young children are the right choice.

It also, the terrarium must have sufficient ventilation to avoid waterlogging. The chimney effect is essential, that is to say, that there are ventilation zones in the lower front and upper back. It has been found to be a good idea to first provide very generous ventilation zones when building the terrarium, and re-cover if humidity is too low.

Terrariums that open at the front are ideal, since the animals are not immediately frightened when the terrarium is opened. If the opening is at the top, the Green anole can see humans as enemies and immediately flee when fed.

Of course, the terrarium must be leak proof. This applies to both Green anole like food. Both small crickets and small flies fit through almost any gap.

Terrarium furniture

As the Green anole it is a very agile animal that leads a strictly agricultural life, the terrarium must be, of course, designed for your needs.

The most important thing is that there are enough climbing opportunities. The Green anole they prefer horizontal and vertical branches that are about the same diameter as the circumference of the animal's body, or a little thicker. Ideally, there should also be some thick branches, as they are ideal as privacy screens against congeners.

I recommend lining the side walls and the back wall with natural cork boards or pressed cork. They are very popular with my animals and also make the terrarium look more natural. These panels are very easy to fix with silicone for aquariums.. But, you have to be careful that there are no hiding places for crickets, since a cricket that bites hard in the terrarium can cost a lot of nerves.

Instead of using cork boards, you can also create a back wall with Styrofoam and tile adhesive. But, this back wall must not look like a rock, but rather a bark. At least my animals don't like to stay on the parts of the back wall that look like rocks.

The Green anole requires little of the substrate. Animals only use it to lay their eggs.. Forest land from a deciduous forest is well suited, since the small insects and microorganisms it contains act as a cleaning column in the terrarium. You can also use uncomposted potting soil or soil and rattan mixes. You can also use beech wood chips or similar, but in that case suitable places for laying eggs should be provided.

The substrate must have at least 7-8 height cm, preferably more, so that the females can bury their eggs well.

The tank must be well planted. There must be bushy plants in which animals can become completely invisible and at the same time serve as a visual screen between the different basking areas. This facilitates the formation of different territories (especially if several females are kept), and a female can thus escape the constant mating attempts of the male.

Plants with large leaves should also grow in the terrarium, since this species likes to use its leaves to sunbathe and hunt. But, you have to be careful with these plants so that they do not darken the entire tank.

Bromeliads are beautiful and very useful plants. these plants, which mostly grow epiphytically, stick to branches or back wall. The water that accumulates in the funnels is easily used by the Green anole like drinking water, while the water bowls are mostly ignored. It also, the long leaves of bromeliads are often used as a place to sleep.

climbing plants, like ivy, they also look great in the terrarium.

Basically, real plants must be used, as they are very useful to maintain moisture. But, as the Green anole does not feed on plants, artificial ones can also be used. No need to worry about the toxicity of different plants. You just have to pick the plants you like, that tolerate the climate of the terrarium and that can support the weight of the Anolis. The only thing to keep in mind is that the plants do not have thorns or spikes, since the anolis they can hurt themselves with them.

In any case, All plants should be thoroughly washed several times over a period of 2 to 3 weeks before introducing them into the terrarium, as purchased plants may contain fertilizer and pesticide residues on the leaves. Like the anolis lick the drops of water from the leaves, these could cause poisoning.

for planting, do not use additional pots, but plant directly in the substrate. This has the disadvantage that it is much more difficult to remove individual plants from the tank. (for example, because the plant has grown too much).

In short, not enough escalation opportunities can be created for the Green anole. The terrarium is ideally set up when the animals can bask directly under the hot spots on the free branches, that is to say, without planting, but they can escape into the bushes at any time.

Waterfalls or streams are only recommended to a limited extent, as they cause the humidity to rise very quickly. If you still want to use them, you have to pay close attention to climate data, because you often only notice bad maintenance parameters when it's too late.

The tank must be cleaned regularly (approximately every 1 or 2 weeks) to remove fallen leaves, uneaten dead food and large pieces of feces. A complete cleaning is only necessary once a year at most. Keep in mind that any work in the terrarium causes stress in the Anolis. Of course, this stress should be kept as low as possible, since excessive stress can lead to the death of animals, or at least to very shy animals.

Green Anolis video terrarium
TERRARIUM ANOLIS CAROLINENSIS


Terrarium temperature

Contrary to many opinions, the Anolis carolinensis does not live in tropical regions, but lives in subtropical zones. Thus, are often kept too wet. The humidity should be between 40% and the 60% during the day. Ideally, there should be a gradient in the terrarium. To get this moisture, it is very useful to use real plants, as they provide constant humidity. As such, the terrarium should be sprayed with water once or twice a day with a plant sprayer. More frequent spraying should only be done in extremely dry rooms. a hygrometer, that can be placed at various points in the terrarium, should be part of the basic equipment to be able to check the humidity daily. At night, values ​​can increase up to 80%, which normally occurs on its own due to the overnight drop in temperature.

Correct temperatures should be fairly easy to achieve in rooms with a normal room temperature. The basic temperature in the terrarium should be about 24 degrees, although there must also be cooler places, at around 22 degrees, and warmer places, until 35-40 degrees. Above all, the place with 35-40 degrees should not be missing in any case. The best way to create it is with a reflector light bulb, since animals associate light with heat. This sunny place is visited again and again throughout the day to recharge.

It is important that there is a temperature gradient inside the terrarium. This can be achieved very well, for example, placing the hot spot too far to one side. The other side is automatically cooled. In the tall terrariums, temperature gradient is due to height. In a collective room, there should not be a single point of sunlight, and the different basking points must be separated by a screen (for example, a bushy plant).

At night, temperatures should drop to 3 and 5 degrees.

In winter, there should be a hibernation period of 2-3 months. The temperature should be between 16-17 degrees in the terrarium. A place in the sun is not necessary during this time. Cool basements and unheated rooms are especially suitable for hibernation.

Terrarium lighting

As the Green anole he is a true sun worshiper, who likes to stay on top of bushes and treetops, Sufficient lighting is very important..

Types of light

as basic lighting, HQI lamps do a very good job. For a tank of 80 x 50 x 100 (length x widht x hight), should use at least a 70W HQI bulb. Preferably one with a wide spread reflector.

You can also use T5 fluorescent tubes instead of HQI lamps. They also provide a lot of light.

Both HQI lamps and T5 tubes produce relatively little heat and convert a large amount of energy into light., so you can keep energy consumption to a minimum with these lamps. This means that the somewhat higher purchase price compared to normal fluorescent tubes is quickly offset.. HQI lamps can often be purchased very cheaply at Ebay.

If required, This means that the somewhat higher purchase price compared to normal fluorescent tubes is quickly offset.. But, I would need at least 8 This means that the somewhat higher purchase price compared to normal fluorescent tubes is quickly offset. 60 This means that the somewhat higher purchase price compared to normal fluorescent tubes is quickly offset.. Since each of these tubes requires 18 W, you would need almost twice as much electricity as with a HQI bulb of 70 W, and you would still have darker lighting. This means that the somewhat higher purchase price compared to normal fluorescent tubes is quickly offset. 8 tubes would also be more or less in the same price range as a used HQI bulb, This means that the somewhat higher purchase price compared to normal fluorescent tubes is quickly offset.. It also, HQI and T5 provide a much better color spectrum than normal fluorescent tubes and last much longer.

In addition to basic lighting, additional heat sources must be created. This can be achieved directly under the HQI spotlight or by using simple reflector bulbs from the DIY store.. Due to the risk of burns, the points of the terrarium must have a maximum of 40W or be protected with a basket. In most cases, 40 watts are enough. temperatures of approx. 35-40 degrees under the lights.

The last thing you need is a source of UV-A and UV-B. You can use a fluorescent tube from a terrarium store or a specially developed UV energy saving bulb for terrariums. In principle, Keep in mind that UV radiation is filtered through glass.. So, if you have a terrarium with a glass lid, the UV lamp must be placed inside the terrarium. Even the perforated plate used in most standard terrariums filters out much of the UV light. Only the gauze allows the passage of light.

It is important to note that UV radiation fades very quickly. So, animals must be able to bask in the sun at a very close distance, less than 30 cm.. It also, these UV lamps lose their effect very quickly, so they have to be replaced approximately every half a year.

Another alternative to provide animals with UV light is short-term irradiation with the Osram Vitalux. Irradiate the animals every 2-3 days for a few 30 minutes. Be sure to respect the minimum distance indicated in the instructions, since this lamp is very powerful.

You can also do without UV light altogether. Animals need ultraviolet light to produce vitamin D3. This vitamin has to be fed anyway. But, a reasonable UV light gives you the assurance that the animals are getting enough vitamin D3, so I wouldn't want to do without that font.

Lighting duration

The basic lighting should be on a few 12 hours a day. The first advertisement is on during 10 hours a day. I light more points every hour until the 4 dots are on. The lights turn off again at hourly intervals. This simulates a daily routine. UV lighting burns for 8 hours a day. I use simple mechanical timers for automation.

In autumn, the lighting time is gradually reduced. During the 2-3 months of winter inactivity, only a few fluorescent tubes are on for a few 8 hours a day.

Captive diet

Their diet includes smaller prey, like flies, crickets or peas. Ideally, they should be pollinated with vitamins and minerals..

For sale "Green anole"

The price in exotic pet stores of a Green anole round the 20 EUR. We have to make sure that our Green anole comes from captive breeding, as wild-caught animals often die due to improper care, and only very rarely are hatchlings successful in the terrarium, so I would advise anyone who is not really versed in terraristics not to buy them.

Alternative names:

1. Carolina anole, Carolina green anole, American anole, American green anole, North American green anole, red-throated anole, American chameleon (English).
2. Anole américain, Anole à gorge rouge, Caméléon américain (French).
3. Amerikanisches Chamäleon, Grüner Anolis (German).
4. Anolis Verde del Noreste, Lagarto Verde Anole (Portuguese).
5. Camaleón norteamericano, Falso camaleón, Anolis verde de Carolina (español).

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Geckos – A fascinating lizard
- Gekkonidae

Gekko gecko
Gekko gecko – Robert Michniewicz, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Content

Geckos – a brief profile

The Geckos are, without a doubt, fascinating animals. Although they are becoming more popular as pets, the Geckos they continue to enjoy a kind of exotic status. The following brief profile aims to introduce a little to these interesting reptiles.

Origin

The Geckos have an impressive adaptability. That is why there is no region of the world in which they are exclusively located.. The Geckos can be found both in temperate climate regions such as in the desert or in the tropics.

Social behaviour

In the wild, most species of Geckos live in loose associations. But, some species are also strictly solitary, and males and females only come together to mate. In pet ownership, the Geckos they are usually kept in groups of two or more per terrarium.

But, if you keep several Geckos in different terrariums, you will be able to observe very well the communication between the animals. If there are others Geckos in the same territory, greeting each other, will threaten or make courtship sounds.

Geckos for maintenance in captivity

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Family
- Aeluroscalabotes felinus
Gecko cat arboricola

Cat gecko

The Tree Cat Gecko is a graceful gecko highly sought after by gecko collectors.. It's relatively easy to create, ...
Family
- Eublepharis macularius
Leopard gecko

Leopard gecko

Leopard Geckos are peaceful and friendly creatures.. They can be kept individually, as a couple or in a group without any problem. Content ...
Family
- Teratoscincus scincus
Common wonder gecko

Common wonder gecko

The Common Wonder Gecko inhabits the ground in deserts and semi-deserts with sparse vegetation.. High daytime and low temperatures ...
Family
- Gekko vittatus
Lined gecko

Lined gecko

Large and beautifully designed tree gecko. This type of gecko also has the advantage of being totally ...
Family
- Christinus marmoratus
Marbled gecko

Marbled gecko

Very nice Asian gecko, with a splendid contrast of colors in its range of grays, black and white. It is a ...
Family
- Hemidactylus turcicus
Mediterranean house gecko

Mediterranean house gecko

The Pink Salamander is active at sunset and at night. It only activates sporadically during the day, especially when ...

Characteristics

As there are different species of Gecko, the physique of animals is sometimes very different. In total, the respective species reach a length of about 4 to 60 cm.. But, the species of Geckos smaller ones are especially suitable for keeping as pets, as they require less space.

A special feature of the Geckos are its legs, since many species have adhesive sheets with which they can cling to very smooth objects or walk and climb them. Other species, However, have intermediate skins on their fingers and can walk on sand.

Life expectancy

As a rule, the Geckos they live between 8 and 15 years, but there are exceptions. The Leopard gecko, for example, can live 25 years. In principle, you can already tell by the size of the species of Gecko whether the animal can reach a longer life. The smaller a Gecko, the lower your life expectancy will be.

If the Geckos are kept as pets, their life expectancy depends mainly on the conditions in which they are maintained. Keep the Geckos in conditions that are not appropriate for the species usually causes premature death.

Sexual maturity

Sexual maturity in Geckos usually begins at 12-18 months, although there may be differences from one species to another. If the Geckos find abundance of food, females may reach sexual maturity before their physical development is complete. This fact can have fatal consequences for the Gecko.

Gestation period

As for the gestation period, also varies from species to species. In general, However, it can be said that the Geckos have a gestation period of about 45 to 60 days. Depending on the ambient temperature, can pass up to 80 days until hatching. But, in ideal conditions, it only takes a few 50 days.

Food

To maintain the health of the Geckos, depend on a varied and nutritious diet. Between the Geckos there are carnivores, herbivores, omnivores and scavengers. So, the diet can include both insects and snails, green foods and even smaller mammals.

Minimum space required

Before deciding on the terrarium size, you should know what kind of Gecko is and how many animals you want to have together. Basically, the necessary space depends on the body size of adult animals.

So, the species of Geckos smaller require less space than larger ones. If two are maintained Geckos in a terrarium, it is assumed that a minimum space of about 100 cm x 75 cm x 50 cm.. With each additional animal, the need for space increases a 50% more.

Frequently Asked Questions about Geckos

There are questions about the Geckos that are often done. We would like to answer some of them here.

Because the Geckos they can stick to smooth surfaces and thus climb walls?

The secret of the climbing ability of many species of Geckos resides on its special legs. The Geckos have millions of fine hairs on the soles of their feet. These hairs are so fine that even a human hair is hundreds of times thicker.. With the help of these hairs, unique in nature, the Gecko find a foothold even on the smoothest surfaces. This is because a weak electrostatic force acts at the molecular level between each of the tiny hairs and the surface.. For a single hair, this attraction is almost insignificant, but the large number of combined hairs ensures that the Geckos can adhere to almost anywhere.

How do geckos communicate?? do they make sounds?

In fact, most species of Geckos they also communicate with each other using their own vocal language. So that, there are typical calls that can be used to clearly identify certain species of geckos (for example, the Tokay gecko (Gekko gecko)). The frequency and volume of the calls differ according to the species. And even within the same species there are individual differences from one animal to another..

Questions before buying a Gecko

Before buying Geckos, there are some basic questions you should ask yourself. It's important to know what you're getting into, because once you have them at home, you have to be prepared to take care of them for several years. During this time, not only will the costs of keeping the animals occur. Of course, the owner also has to invest a lot of work and time in maintaining the Geckos in a way appropriate to the species.

If you are not familiar with the Geckos as pets, first you should thoroughly inform yourself about the requirements for keeping these reptiles before buying them. Once the purchase decision has been made, the question of where you can buy geckos.

But before you do it, you should check if the Geckos are the right pet for you. And if it is suitable for keeping geckos at all. To avoid impulse purchases, you should take a little time and answer the following questions honestly:

  • I know what breeding is like Geckos appropriate to the species?
  • Work only starts with purchase. Am I willing to sacrifice time, money and space for animals?
  • The costs of breeding Geckos are easily underestimated due to their small size. can i afford to buy a Gecko?
  • The Geckos they can also get sick. Am I willing to pay for any veterinary treatment and medication and can I?
  • One terrarium needs space and special weather conditions. Do I have a suitable room to accommodate the animals?
  • The Geckos they are not stuffed animals. the characteristics of the Geckos fit my ideas about a pet?
  • The Geckos eat live animals. Am I prepared to buy and feed them myself?, and even to raise them?

What are the purchase and maintenance costs that I have to reckon with??

As already mentioned, many people underestimate the costs of maintaining Geckos of appropriate shape to the species due to its small size. But, the costs of keeping pets do not necessarily depend on their size, but of the demands they pose for their maintenance.

Basically, it can be said that pets more “exotic”, including reptiles such as Geckos, tend to be more expensive to maintain. This is due to the fact that these exotic animals live in nature in completely different climatic conditions than those that prevail here.. The “simulation” of the natural habitat is correspondingly more complex and, Therefore, also more expensive.

Basically, you can distinguish between one-off costs (or rare) and regular to maintain the Geckos.

One-off costs

  • Acquisition costs of animals
  • Terrarium
  • Furnish
  • Illumination
  • Heating systems or thermal carpets
  • Humidifiers or irrigation systems
  • Thermometer
  • Hygrometer

Ordinary costs

  • Food
  • Minerals
  • Detergent
  • Soils
  • Illuminators
  • Electricity for heating and lighting

One-time or infrequent costs amount to approximately several hundred euros, because terrariums and the necessary technology are usually not exactly cheap. It also, there are the costs of buying the animals, in which you have to have some 30 to 100 euros per Gecko.

The usual costs of raising Geckos are somewhat minor, although they should not be underestimated. Food and electricity also cost money. And finally, but not less important, do not forget the veterinary expenses. Regular costs should be at least 20 to 50 euros per animal per month.

Are geckos suitable for children?

And again, parents make the mistake of buying their children a Gecko as a pet. They think that a Gecko it's something completely different and that your child will have a pet “special”. But not even the Gecko nor will the child enjoy this decision, because geckos are definitely not pets for children.

Like the Geckos require a lot of attention, knowledge and care, children would quickly be overwhelmed by them. It also, you must be able to ensure that you are aware of the requirements of the Gecko. And the Geckos they are not stuffed animals, although this claim is often used as a sales strategy in the pet trade.

Of course, there is nothing wrong with buying a Gecko and let the children have a part of the new cohabitant. But, children should not be left to take care of the Gecko solos.

Buy a gecko

The Geckos can be purchased in pet stores, to breeders or at reptile fairs. But, the best and safest option is to buy directly from the breeder. The breeder can often give you advice on breeding Geckos or offer help with any questions or problems. You can also ask the breeder to show you where the Geckos and thus decide for yourself whether the breeder is trustworthy and experienced in breeding Geckos.

At the time of buying Geckos, you must first observe the behavior of animals. Only if the Gecko seems to be healthy and alert you should take it home. In the breeder, you can usually take your time to look and then decide which gecko you like best.. You can also make an appointment with the breeder beforehand and see how the animal is fed..

Unfortunately, there are always black sheep among breeders who only take into account the economic aspect and do not care about animals. It is better to avoid this type of breeders, because each purchase guarantees the continuity of the system.

At the time of buying, pay special attention to whether the terrariums are clean, if the Geckos behave fearfully, if they have enough space and fresh water, and what is the feeding of the Geckos. As you already know what a gecko needs, now it's easy to find out if geckos go well where you want to buy them.

Once you have decided on a Gecko, notice the following:

  • light eyes
  • No wounds or scars
  • No deformities in the toes
  • Age and size
  • Properly fed

Acclimatization period after purchase

After taking the Gecko at home, you need time to get used to your new environment. It is important that you place the animal in the terrarium ready for use immediately after transport and then only observe or talk to you.. In no case should it be removed Gecko to play the first day. New animals must first settle in their unfamiliar environment and this is already stressful enough for the Geckos. If you start too early with pressure or even coercion, there is a risk that animals will react with fear and shyness.

So that the Gecko feel comfortable, the terrarium must be arranged appropriately to the species. If he Gecko has enough hiding places, will be installed faster. after a few days, you should try to attract the Gecko with food and, when sufficiently domesticated, you can try to get it out. If you're lucky, the Gecko it will come to your hand later on its own, but it's also possible that he's still shy. Both must be accepted, because in the end each animal is its own individual.

Alternative names:

1. Gekkota, gekko (English).
2. Gekkonidae (French).
3. Gekkonidae (German).
4. lagartixas, taruíras, osgas, gecos, catongas, bribas, bibas, sardaniscas ou sardanitas (Portuguese).
5. Gecko, Gekko, Geco, Geko, Salamanquina, Salamanquesa (español).

▷ The world of Pets: Dogs, cats, birds, reptiles, amphibians

Fischer's chameleon
- Kinyongia fischeri

If a «Fischer's chameleon» in a pet store or elsewhere, it is not uncommon for it to be another species of two-horned chameleon in the same genus.
Fischer's chameleon
Fischer's chameleon – Denise Chan, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Content

Origin / Distribution

The species is endemic to Tanzania.

The Fischer's chameleon (Kinyongia fischeri) split into several species 2008. Most of them are potentially or critically endangered. They are medium-sized chameleons that are characterized by having two nasal horns., and which are popular with private carers, especially in the United States, but rarely seen in European zoos. Usually, not a real Fischer's chameleon, but representatives of other species of the complex Kinyongia fischeri.

Characteristics / Appearance

The Fischer's chameleon reaches a total length of 26 – 33,5 cm., the females being much smaller than the males. The queue occupies between 15 and 20 cm.. The most prominent feature is the strongly laterally compressed and warty snout processes., that can measure up to 20 mm in males. In females they reach 8 mm is missing completely. A helmet is only vaguely present. The first third of the back bears a crest formed by a loose row of spiny scales..

Habitat

The Fischer's chameleon It inhabits the edges of humid mountain forests and, possibly, in neighboring plantations and gardens, at an altitude of 800-1.700 m, with an annual rainfall of 800-2.000 mm, and with a dry season of 2-3 months.

Behavior

The Fischer's chameleon prefers to eat beetles and grasshoppers, but also takes other invertebrates and small vertebrates. Mating females are light green with a red head.. 47-55 days after mating, the female lays between 10 and 21 eggs in a hole 15-20 depth cm. The young grow rapidly and can reach sexual maturity at 6 months. The most important predator of the fishing chameleon is the hummingbird (Dispholidus typus).

Threats to the species

State of conservation ⓘ


Status Near Threatened ⓘ (UICN)ⓘ

The Fischer's chameleon (Kinyongia fischeri) is listed as potentially threatened on the IUCN Red List since 2014 because the area of ​​the species is small and the habitat is fragmented. The habitat is gradually disappearing due to conversion of forests to farmland, logging and underuse of crops. The same goes for the Kinyongia boehmei, Kinyongia tavetana, Kinyongia matschiei, Kinyongia multituberculata and Kinyongia vosseleri, are classified as critically endangered. Kinyongia uluguruensis It is not considered in danger of extinction.

International trade is regulated by CITES Appendix II.

Among 2001 and 2015, Tanzania exported an annual average of about 3.700 animals. The main buyers were the United States, with a 53%, Germany, with a 13% (a few 470 animals per year) and japan, with a 10%. But, It was rarely the Kinyongia fischeri Properly said, but mainly from Kinyongia multituberculata, Kinyongia matschiei, Kinyongia vosseleri and possibly Kinyongia tavetana and Kinyongia boehmei. Exports of hatchlings from Europe and North America are insignificant

The "Fischer's chameleon" in captivity

The terrarium

The Fischer's chameleon should normally be kept alone. To support an adult individual, A well-ventilated and humid terrarium is recommended. 4 x 3 x 6 times (length x widht x hight) the length of the head and torso, that is to say, a few 60 x 45 x 90 cm for a large male. If they stay in pairs, you have to add a 20% of the ground surface.

The terrarium should be equipped with spotlights and UV lamps and have plenty of climbing branches and a water trough. It is recommended to plant the back and side walls with, for example, Ficus benjamina. A mixture of sand and peat is suitable as a substrate that should always be kept slightly moist..

The substrate for the terrarium Fischer's chameleon should be loose and absorbent. These may include, a mixture of sand and peat is suitable. If you have a female, it is important that the substrate is filled to a sufficient height. In this case, the substrate must have at least 20 centimeters high so that the chameleon can bury its eggs.

Air temperature should vary between 24-28°C during the day, locally up to more than 30°C and drop about 10°C at night. Relative humidity should be 50-70% during the day, with slightly higher night values.

Buy one "Fischer's chameleon"

If a “Fischer's chameleon” in a pet store or elsewhere, it is not uncommon for it to be another species of two-horned chameleon in the same genus. The gender Kinyongia includes now 18 species; Kinyongia fischeri It is one of the species that is least kept in captivity.. Often an apparent Fischer's chameleon hides close relatives like Kinyongia multituberculata, Kinyongia matschiei or Kinyongia boehmei.

The prices of Fischer's chameleon are usually correspondingly high due to this rarity. It is difficult to give a general amount because it depends on the seller, but you probably won't get a Fischer's chameleon for less than 100 EUR.

The fact that the real Fischer's chameleon is rarely offered is also due to its comparatively small area of ​​origin.

Videos "Fischer's chameleon"

Chameleon Showdown - Giant Monkey-tailed Fischer's Chameleons

Alternative names:

1. Fischer's chameleon, Fischer’s two-horned chameleon, Nguru blade-horned chameleon (English).
2. Caméléon nain de Fischer (French).
3. Fischer's Zweihornchamäleon (German).
4. Camaleão de Fischer (Portuguese).
5. "Camaleón de Fischer" (español).

▷ The world of Pets: Dogs, cats, birds, reptiles, amphibians

Pet Iguanas
- Iguanidae

Lau banded iguana
Lau banded iguana (Brachylophus fasciatus) – H. Zell, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Content

Due to its comparatively simple breeding requirements, the iguanas are very popular, especially among beginners in reptile breeding in terrariums. Reptiles fascinate for their diversity of species, but they also require some special care that must be taken into account when choosing an animal. Here you can read more about the appearance, the origin and conservation of iguanas. Immerse yourself in the world of reptiles and learn exciting information about the different species.

Things You Should Know About Your Iguanas

Many species of iguanas live in the forests of South and Central America, preferring this warm and humid vegetation of the region, where they can be found climbing trees. But, depending on the species, these lizards also live on the ground or in rocky outcrops. Iguanas belong to the order of Pangolins and are closely related to the Chameleons and the Red-headed rock agama. In total, there is almost 40 different species, from the Common collared lizard (Crotaphytus collaris) until the Long-nosed leopard lizard (Gambelia wislizenii), which are divided into eight genera.

The iguanas differ in color and size. There are species that only grow a few centimeters, while others can reach a majestic total length of more than two meters. It is characteristic that the tail is longer than the body. In the color, the Green iguana (Iguana iguana) is especially known. But, may also have gray accents, blue, brown and even red on their scales. Males also change color from green to brown during the mating season..

The iguanas have a life expectancy of 10 to 20 years. You should take this fact into account before buying a iguana. It also, iguanas live in a social group in the wild and should not be kept alone at home. It is better to keep a pair or two females in combination with a male.

The optimal accommodation for iguanas

The iguanas need space, enough opportunities to climb and different levels of trees, branches and plants. How they can reach a total length of two meters at the time they fully grow, the enclosure must already offer enough space in advance for reptiles to develop freely. Hiding places are also part of the terrarium. Caves made of cork or other natural materials are suitable for this. Iguanas are also excellent swimmers. A combination of many climbing possibilities and a natural substrate with a water basin are ideal for reptiles.

Since iguanas come from warm and humid regions, a tropical climate is a basic requirement for the well-being of lizards. So, the terrarium should be heated and kept moist with an irrigation system. A humidity of the 90 % is optimal. The temperature must be higher than 35 degrees, but iguanas feel more comfortable at night if the temperature cools to a few 25 degrees.

Another important point in the optimal configuration of the terrarium is the light intensity, since this should not only be especially high, but also contain UV-A and UV-B irradiation.

What do iguanas eat??

Although it may seem that iguanas have rodents and other small animals on their daily menu, are purely vegetarian. An exception is very young iguanas, who eat small insects from time to time due to their higher protein needs. Otherwise, reptiles prefer leaves, the plants, fruits and vegetables. The ideal is a lettuce rich in nutrients and vitamins in a proportion of 80 % and fruits and vegetables in a proportion of 20 %. To meet calcium needs, cuttlefish bones or food supplements containing calcium are suitable.

Iguanas need a lot of attention

The maintenance of a iguana can be complex. These may include, reptiles take up a lot of space and require a coordinated technical system in the enclosure to achieve optimal weather conditions. Feeding is not usually complicated, but must be provided in the appropriate proportions.

Wide climbing possibilities are essential to keeping iguanas. Even outside the terrarium, an iguana can enjoy the fresh air in summer in a safe area of the garden, for example. It is important that nothing poisonous is found in its vicinity. Since variety is also part of the natural needs of an iguana, terrarium furniture can also be varied or reorganized regularly.

When it comes to cleaning, you have to take into account some things. Food and fresh water should be a matter of course every day. If there is a pile of water in the ground, reptiles can urinate on it when climbing. So, you should also make sure that the water is always fresh and clean..

In general, iguanas are popular pets and are suitable for beginners if cared for properly. But, your requirements and, above all, the space they need are huge. This should be considered before buying. With proper care, these lizards can also be tamed and bring joy to the whole family.

List of Iguanas for their maintenance in captivity

Family
- Sauromalus ater
Common chuckwalla

Common chuckwalla


The Common chuckwalla found in deserts, where the air is warm and dry (of 9 to 45 ...
Family
- Ctenosaura quinquecarinata
Oaxacan spinytail iguana

Oaxacan spinytail iguana


As to the nature, the Oaxacan spinytail iguana is relatively tame, eat from the hand and not ...
Family
- Cyclura lewisi
Blue iguana

Blue iguana


The Blue iguana (Cyclura lewisi) came to have only between 10 and 25 specimens in the wild. Source Content / ...
Family
- Brachylophus fasciatus
Lau banded iguana

Lau banded iguana


The Lau banded iguana is considered a national treasure by the government of this country, and his image has ...
Family
- Cyclura nubila
Cuban iguana

Cuban iguana


As the largest member of its kind, the Cuban iguana (Cyclura nubila) reaches a total length of 150 cm and ...
Family
- Sauromalus hispidus
Angel Island chuckwalla

Angel Island chuckwalla


The Angel Island chuckwalla it is the second largest species of the genus Sauromalus (chuckwallas), reaching 44 cm of body length and ...
Family
- Ctenosaura pectinata
Western spiny-tailed iguana

Western spiny-tailed iguana


The Western spiny-tailed iguana (Ctenosaura pectinata) It is one of the largest members of the Spinytail iguanas (Ctenosaura) and ...
Family
- Ctenosaura similis
Black iguana

Black iguana


The Black iguana it is a large and bulky lizard, and adult males reach 45 cm length with ...
Family
- Cyclura cornuta
Rhinoceros iguana

Rhinoceros iguana


The Rhinoceros iguana (Cyclura cornuta) It is one of the most requested pets by iguana keepers., But due to ...
Family
- Iguana iguana
Green iguana

Green iguana


The Green iguana It is a large reptile with a powerful body that can reach a length of almost ...