Like most of the lizards in his family, the Green anole shows pronounced sexual dimorphism.

The male of the Green anole measure about 20 cm when fully grown, with a head-torso length of 8 cm., While the females are somewhat smaller, with a maximum of 18 cm and a head-torso length of 7 cm.. They have a slim build with a pointed head, that is very skinny, especially in the female 3-4 cm smaller.

The Green anole can move eyes independently and change color from green to brown, what has earned him the name of American chameleon. Body color changes depending on mood and activity, although it should be noted that females are usually darker than males. These may include, when the animals sunbathe, darken to absorb more heat.

The throat pouch of this species is red., what gives it its name. The common opinion that females do not have this bag in the throat is wrong. But, it is much smaller than that of the male and is hardly used. The throat pouch is opened by the hyoid apparatus in both males and females.. The average age is 3 to 5 years, but animals can easily live up to 8 years in captivity.

Originally, the Green anole comes from the southeastern United States. There it is native from Florida west, through Alabama and Louisiana, to texas, and from there to southern Oklahoma. From Oklahoma east, passing through Arkansas and Tennessee, to southern Virginia. The genetic studies of Green anole suggest that their ancestor lived in Cuba and arrived in the southeastern United States (Florida) by sea.

Another population has been found in Hawaii, but this is due to displacement by humans. There they are so widespread due to the lack of natural predators that they have become a threat to native animals.

Outside United States, colonize large areas of northeastern Mexico and several Caribbean islands. They must have reached the latter through human introduction.

They must have reached the latter through human introduction, the Green anole They must have reached the latter through human introduction. They must have reached the latter through human introduction.

The Green anole lives in small groups with a clear hierarchy. They must have reached the latter through human introduction, They must have reached the latter through human introduction, They must have reached the latter through human introduction. They must have reached the latter through human introduction, They must have reached the latter through human introduction. They are shy animals that escape and are chased by many hunters. (birds Raptors, cats, etc.). But, They must have reached the latter through human introduction, They must have reached the latter through human introduction. They must have reached the latter through human introduction. But the throat bag also inflates during courtship..

The male rarely avoids a fight with his conspecifics.. The Green anole is very territorial, the first consequence of the intrusion is probably the threatening gesture of the territorial owner. Lifts throat bag and sometimes nods. If the weaker male does not run away or if the opponents are just as strong, a fight breaks out. The first attack is launched by the owner of the territory.

There are two types of males: The lightest males, which are mainly based on speed and threatening gestures with the throat bag in fights, and the heaviest males, which are mainly based on your strongest bite.
The consequences are varied., scratch injuries and bite wounds are always present. Less common are bone fractures and joint dislocations.

The Green anole actively feeds on small arthropods, like crickets, grasshopper, flies, worms, mealworms and moths. Spiders also eat. Basically, they will eat any insect that fits in their mouth. The Green anole he's an ambush hunter. When it detects a prey animal with its eyes, waits until it's in range, then jumps to it. Often catches prey from the side, but then you have to turn it upside down to swallow it, Why do anoles have no teeth?, but only small hooks with which they hold the prey. They tend to eat larger prey with their heads down..

One of the most interesting behaviors of the Green anole is the courtship. When a male sees a female, he presents himself to her by his most beautiful side. It is usually bright green. The male positions himself clearly visible to the female and begins with the typical head tilt.. To enhance the effect, raise and lower the entire torso as if doing push-ups. It also, throat vane constantly folds in and out like a flashing light.

The female indicates that she is ready to mate by nodding her head., which gives rise to a brief but very beautiful mating dance between the two.

The next step is for the male to chase the female.. Once you've caught it, clings to the female's neck with a bite (bite on the neck). Mating itself lasts a few minutes. during mating, the male, still secured by neck bite, he wraps himself around the female and gets carried away by her.

The female then buries an egg in the ground.. How can sperm be stored?, can lay an egg at intervals of a few 14 days. Since he only carries one ready egg in his body at a time, the agility of the female is maintained during the gestation period. Immediately after egg laying, a distinctive slit can be seen on the female.

Depending on the temperature, fully developed young hatch after 35-40 days (approx.. 30 degrees) until 55-60 days (approx.. 20-25 degrees).

The breeding period extends from March to September.

The Green anole it is relatively easy to keep in a terrarium. The most important point to remember is that you can never keep two males together.. The most important point to remember is that you can never keep two males together., The most important point to remember is that you can never keep two males together.. The most important point to remember is that you can never keep two males together., The most important point to remember is that you can never keep two males together., as otherwise she might be too stressed by the male's mating frenzy.

The most important point to remember is that you can never keep two males together., The most important point to remember is that you can never keep two males together., The most important point to remember is that you can never keep two males together.. The most important point to remember is that you can never keep two males together., The most important point to remember is that you can never keep two males together., so that the individual does not get too stressed. But, the terrarium should be structured in such a way that individual animals can avoid each other or several territories are possible.

As the Green anole leads a farming life, the terrarium must be tall. The absolute minimum height must be 60 cm., that is to say, usable height. This does not include the substrate or lighting. For a couple of Green anole the minimum size of the terrarium is 60 x 40 x 60 (length x widht x hight), but i think you can only get by with this height if you mean the actual usable height. In any case, 80 cm or even more is better.

For a larger group of animals, the terrarium must be, of course, largest. For 4-5 animals I think 80 x 50 x 80 cm is the absolute minimum.

It is important that the terrarium tolerates the subtropical climate. So, glass terrariums are ideal. Wooden terrariums can be used without problems if the wood has been made weatherproof with a waterproof varnish. It is important to ensure that the varnish does not emit any toxic substance. Varnishes with the environmental angel in connection with the designation suitable for young children are the right choice.

It also, the terrarium must have sufficient ventilation to avoid waterlogging. The chimney effect is essential, that is to say, that there are ventilation zones in the lower front and upper back. It has been found to be a good idea to first provide very generous ventilation zones when building the terrarium, and re-cover if humidity is too low.

Terrariums that open at the front are ideal, since the animals are not immediately frightened when the terrarium is opened. If the opening is at the top, the Green anole can see humans as enemies and immediately flee when fed.

Of course, the terrarium must be leak proof. This applies to both Green anole like food. Both small crickets and small flies fit through almost any gap.

As the Green anole it is a very agile animal that leads a strictly agricultural life, the terrarium must be, of course, designed for your needs.

The most important thing is that there are enough climbing opportunities. The Green anole they prefer horizontal and vertical branches that are about the same diameter as the circumference of the animal's body, or a little thicker. Ideally, there should also be some thick branches, as they are ideal as privacy screens against congeners.

I recommend lining the side walls and the back wall with natural cork boards or pressed cork. They are very popular with my animals and also make the terrarium look more natural. These panels are very easy to fix with silicone for aquariums.. But, you have to be careful that there are no hiding places for crickets, since a cricket that bites hard in the terrarium can cost a lot of nerves.

Instead of using cork boards, you can also create a back wall with Styrofoam and tile adhesive. But, this back wall must not look like a rock, but rather a bark. At least my animals don't like to stay on the parts of the back wall that look like rocks.

The Green anole requires little of the substrate. Animals only use it to lay their eggs.. Forest land from a deciduous forest is well suited, since the small insects and microorganisms it contains act as a cleaning column in the terrarium. You can also use uncomposted potting soil or soil and rattan mixes. You can also use beech wood chips or similar, but in that case suitable places for laying eggs should be provided.

The substrate must have at least 7-8 height cm, preferably more, so that the females can bury their eggs well.

The tank must be well planted. There must be bushy plants in which animals can become completely invisible and at the same time serve as a visual screen between the different basking areas. This facilitates the formation of different territories (especially if several females are kept), and a female can thus escape the constant mating attempts of the male.

Plants with large leaves should also grow in the terrarium, since this species likes to use its leaves to sunbathe and hunt. But, you have to be careful with these plants so that they do not darken the entire tank.

Bromeliads are beautiful and very useful plants. these plants, which mostly grow epiphytically, stick to branches or back wall. The water that accumulates in the funnels is easily used by the Green anole like drinking water, while the water bowls are mostly ignored. It also, the long leaves of bromeliads are often used as a place to sleep.

climbing plants, like ivy, they also look great in the terrarium.

Basically, real plants must be used, as they are very useful to maintain moisture. But, as the Green anole does not feed on plants, artificial ones can also be used. No need to worry about the toxicity of different plants. You just have to pick the plants you like, that tolerate the climate of the terrarium and that can support the weight of the Anolis. The only thing to keep in mind is that the plants do not have thorns or spikes, since the anolis they can hurt themselves with them.

In any case, All plants should be thoroughly washed several times over a period of 2 to 3 weeks before introducing them into the terrarium, as purchased plants may contain fertilizer and pesticide residues on the leaves. Like the anolis lick the drops of water from the leaves, these could cause poisoning.

for planting, do not use additional pots, but plant directly in the substrate. This has the disadvantage that it is much more difficult to remove individual plants from the tank. (for example, because the plant has grown too much).

In short, not enough escalation opportunities can be created for the Green anole. The terrarium is ideally set up when the animals can bask directly under the hot spots on the free branches, that is to say, without planting, but they can escape into the bushes at any time.

Waterfalls or streams are only recommended to a limited extent, as they cause the humidity to rise very quickly. If you still want to use them, you have to pay close attention to climate data, because you often only notice bad maintenance parameters when it's too late.

The tank must be cleaned regularly (approximately every 1 or 2 weeks) to remove fallen leaves, uneaten dead food and large pieces of feces. A complete cleaning is only necessary once a year at most. Keep in mind that any work in the terrarium causes stress in the Anolis. Of course, this stress should be kept as low as possible, since excessive stress can lead to the death of animals, or at least to very shy animals.

Contrary to many opinions, the Anolis carolinensis does not live in tropical regions, but lives in subtropical zones. Thus, are often kept too wet. The humidity should be between 40% and the 60% during the day. Ideally, there should be a gradient in the terrarium. To get this moisture, it is very useful to use real plants, as they provide constant humidity. As such, the terrarium should be sprayed with water once or twice a day with a plant sprayer. More frequent spraying should only be done in extremely dry rooms. a hygrometer, that can be placed at various points in the terrarium, should be part of the basic equipment to be able to check the humidity daily. At night, values ​​can increase up to 80%, which normally occurs on its own due to the overnight drop in temperature.

Correct temperatures should be fairly easy to achieve in rooms with a normal room temperature. The basic temperature in the terrarium should be about 24 degrees, although there must also be cooler places, at around 22 degrees, and warmer places, until 35-40 degrees. Above all, the place with 35-40 degrees should not be missing in any case. The best way to create it is with a reflector light bulb, since animals associate light with heat. This sunny place is visited again and again throughout the day to recharge.

It is important that there is a temperature gradient inside the terrarium. This can be achieved very well, for example, placing the hot spot too far to one side. The other side is automatically cooled. In the tall terrariums, temperature gradient is due to height. In a collective room, there should not be a single point of sunlight, and the different basking points must be separated by a screen (for example, a bushy plant).

At night, temperatures should drop to 3 and 5 degrees.

In winter, there should be a hibernation period of 2-3 months. The temperature should be between 16-17 degrees in the terrarium. A place in the sun is not necessary during this time. Cool basements and unheated rooms are especially suitable for hibernation.

As the Green anole he is a true sun worshiper, who likes to stay on top of bushes and treetops, Sufficient lighting is very important..

as basic lighting, HQI lamps do a very good job. For a tank of 80 x 50 x 100 (length x widht x hight), should use at least a 70W HQI bulb. Preferably one with a wide spread reflector.

You can also use T5 fluorescent tubes instead of HQI lamps. They also provide a lot of light.

Both HQI lamps and T5 tubes produce relatively little heat and convert a large amount of energy into light., so you can keep energy consumption to a minimum with these lamps. This means that the somewhat higher purchase price compared to normal fluorescent tubes is quickly offset.. HQI lamps can often be purchased very cheaply at Ebay.

If required, This means that the somewhat higher purchase price compared to normal fluorescent tubes is quickly offset.. But, I would need at least 8 This means that the somewhat higher purchase price compared to normal fluorescent tubes is quickly offset. 60 This means that the somewhat higher purchase price compared to normal fluorescent tubes is quickly offset.. Since each of these tubes requires 18 W, you would need almost twice as much electricity as with a HQI bulb of 70 W, and you would still have darker lighting. This means that the somewhat higher purchase price compared to normal fluorescent tubes is quickly offset. 8 tubes would also be more or less in the same price range as a used HQI bulb, This means that the somewhat higher purchase price compared to normal fluorescent tubes is quickly offset.. It also, HQI and T5 provide a much better color spectrum than normal fluorescent tubes and last much longer.

In addition to basic lighting, additional heat sources must be created. This can be achieved directly under the HQI spotlight or by using simple reflector bulbs from the DIY store.. Due to the risk of burns, the points of the terrarium must have a maximum of 40W or be protected with a basket. In most cases, 40 watts are enough. temperatures of approx. 35-40 degrees under the lights.

The last thing you need is a source of UV-A and UV-B. You can use a fluorescent tube from a terrarium store or a specially developed UV energy saving bulb for terrariums. In principle, Keep in mind that UV radiation is filtered through glass.. So, if you have a terrarium with a glass lid, the UV lamp must be placed inside the terrarium. Even the perforated plate used in most standard terrariums filters out much of the UV light. Only the gauze allows the passage of light.

It is important to note that UV radiation fades very quickly. So, animals must be able to bask in the sun at a very close distance, less than 30 cm.. It also, these UV lamps lose their effect very quickly, so they have to be replaced approximately every half a year.

Another alternative to provide animals with UV light is short-term irradiation with the Osram Vitalux. Irradiate the animals every 2-3 days for a few 30 minutes. Be sure to respect the minimum distance indicated in the instructions, since this lamp is very powerful.

You can also do without UV light altogether. Animals need ultraviolet light to produce vitamin D3. This vitamin has to be fed anyway. But, a reasonable UV light gives you the assurance that the animals are getting enough vitamin D3, so I wouldn't want to do without that font.

The basic lighting should be on a few 12 hours a day. The first advertisement is on during 10 hours a day. I light more points every hour until the 4 dots are on. The lights turn off again at hourly intervals. This simulates a daily routine. UV lighting burns for 8 hours a day. I use simple mechanical timers for automation.

In autumn, the lighting time is gradually reduced. During the 2-3 months of winter inactivity, only a few fluorescent tubes are on for a few 8 hours a day.

Their diet includes smaller prey, like flies, crickets or peas. Ideally, they should be pollinated with vitamins and minerals..

The price in exotic pet stores of a Green anole round the 20 EUR. We have to make sure that our Green anole comes from captive breeding, as wild-caught animals often die due to improper care, and only very rarely are hatchlings successful in the terrarium, so I would advise anyone who is not really versed in terraristics not to buy them.

1. Carolina anole, Carolina green anole, American anole, American green anole, North American green anole, red-throated anole, American chameleon (English).
2. Anole américain, Anole à gorge rouge, Caméléon américain (French).
3. Amerikanisches Chamäleon, Grüner Anolis (German).
4. Anolis Verde del Noreste, Lagarto Verde Anole (Portuguese).
5. Camaleón norteamericano, Falso camaleón, Anolis verde de Carolina (español).

The range of the species is Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam.

The Mountain horned dragon lives in dense forests on top of tall tree trunks. These lizards prefer the shady area under the treetops, and they rarely look for sunny places.

Like many other arboreal lizards, only flowing water is seen and they would even like a lake.

It is a kind of calm lizard that prefers to remain motionless rather than run away.

The Mountain horned dragon has a thorn above each arch of the brow. They can lose this column, which does not regenerate. Otherwise, this spiny lizard has no thorn on the back of its head, although all other species show it..

The nuchal ridge is quite high and clearly separates from it in a uniformly flattened dorsal ridge.. The eardrum is clearly visible. Body markings are a brown web on an olive background. When they are stressed, these animals only show dull brown colors.

The eyes are surrounded by a light green ring followed by a dark green ring.

Strong toes correspond to being in trees.

The tail is slightly flattened.

Males reach a total length of 30,5 cm.. Females appear larger, 32 cm..

The species has a sexual dichromatism. The male has a large throat pouch, yellowish with a green stripe. The head is also yellowish with a green band under the eye ring.
Females appear more robust in body structure.

The species is shy in nature and tends to run away.

The terrarium should be thickly covered and deep enough to provide security. Vertically anchored branches are especially important, since animals do not like to stay horizontal.

Otherwise, they are a calm species that does not change position for many hours. Animals are not sun worshipers at all, rather they avoid bright light and remain under the treetops.

Although they are native to the rainforests, I can describe an aversion to direct irrigation. They like running water and prefer swimming pools.

The male woos with a beautiful tilt of the head. He also shows his yellow throat bag. Here a tall trunk is important for the female to recognize this beautiful presentation. Neck bite is immediately followed by mating.

Clutches mature in a few 4 weeks and are carried out by the female in a sufficiently high and moist substrate. Dig a hole of about 10 depth cm, put there between 12 and 15 eggs and compacts the substrate with strong head blows.

At 21-25°C the embryo develops in 190 days to hatch.

Simply turn off the power and reduce lighting to a minimum for a few 8 weeks.

The Mountain horned dragon has a very diverse nutritional spectrum, in which he does not disdain the lizards.

Earthworms and other worms are preferred. Fish are active prey, young rodents from the nest are also on the menu. Of course, all insects can be offered. Meadowsweet plankton should be preferred, as well as various species of crickets, grasshoppers and cockroaches, and even waxworms and black beetle larvae.

It is essential to guarantee a moderate feeding of the animals according to their calm way of life. How they live in a rather cool climate, tend to become obese quickly if fed too much.

As an example, just to illustrate the amount, they can feed 2 common earthworm (Lumbricus terrestris) big and one Dubia roach (Blaptica dubia) average size per week. If the lizard also actively catches a fish, this is enough.

Insects must be well fed and, of course, continue to be dusted with a multivitamin and mineral supplement. Range is recommended Herpetal or Korvimin ZVT with a mixture of calcium.

Keep in mind that neither fish nor earthworms can complement each other, but they have a very good nutritional value. Earthworms, in particular, they are rich in calcium, and that's why they are so important.

The Mountain horned dragon can be kept in a paludario ⓘ.

Paludarium already indicates that it is a terrarium with a large basin of water and a waterfall.

Dimensions must not be less than 140 cm x 70 cm x 170 cm. (length x widht x hight). Height is especially important because animals live under a canopy of leaves. But, above the dense vegetation there must be lighting, that animals largely avoid.

The distance to the substrate must also be maintained, since to him Mountain horned dragon he likes to stay on tree trunks.

The habitat is the subtropical jungle and must be recreated in a terrarium. You should focus on the essentials, that is to say, a basin with fish, a great waterfall, plants and soil.

The back walls are designed so that many plants can thrive there. Can be designed using Xaxim or humus, as this material also retains moisture well. The substrate is filled high enough and moist. Plants and many branches offer the freedom of movement of a tree.

The sunny areas are rather secondary, since the Mountain horned dragon prefers cooler and shady places. Lighting is mainly for plants.

Plants not only regulate the climate in the terrarium, they also serve as protection, residence and welfare for animals.

Planting with ficus species, like the "oakleaf ficus" Ficus quericifolia and Ficus scandens, is the most sensible option. It also, a variety of other plants can be chosen, all of which must tolerate high humidity and be small-leaved. These may include, the Chirita Tamiana, the Pellionia daveauana, the Hemigraphis repanda, and the Parthenocissus inserta they are suitable, but it is also enough to choose the ivy Epipremnum pinnatum.

The choice of substrate is important because it must retain a lot of moisture, must not become moldy and must have good egg-laying properties. An unfertilized soil is recommended, preferably from deciduous forests.

The substrate must have 15 cm in height so that the female has optimal conditions for laying eggs. If the female feels insecure, if the substrate is too poor or not moist enough, this can lead to an egg-laying drought.

Lighting in a forest terrarium plays a subordinate role for animals, not for plants. The Mountain horned dragon they are not usually sun worshipers, rather they avoid a light level. It is important to avoid excess heat through good lighting. Fluorescent tubes have been successful.

Example: for a terrarium of 140 x 60 x 170, 6 BioVital full spectrum tubes, T5, with 54 high output watts, have proven their effectiveness. It also, UV lamp can be offered for a few hours.

In the terrarium a basic temperature of 23-25°C should be offered. A spotlight can also be used to provide a temperature of 30°C, but this should not raise the base values. It is important to keep the temperature at 18°C ​​at night.

Relative humidity should be 50-60% during the day and increase to about 90% At night. Due to the cold night, to the plants, to the moist substrate and to the walls, plus a water basin, humidity inevitably increases at night.

The price of a "Mountain horned dragon" ranges between 35 – 45 EUR.

1. Indo-Chinese spiny lizard, Green pricklenape (English).
2. Dragon cornu des montagnes, Lézard cornu des montagnes, Dragon de montagnes (French).
3. Berg gehörnten Drachen (German).
4. Dragão com chifres da montanha, Lagarto espinhoso indo-chinês, Pinheiro verde (Portuguese).
5. Acantosaurio, Dragon cornudo de Vietnam, Camaleón asiático, Lagarto Jesucristo (español).

Sources:

DREWS, Olive (2009): Kompaktwissen Agamen, VIVARIA Verlag, Meckenheim, 29-31 S.

HALLERMANN, Jacob (2000): The taxonomic status of Acanthosaura fruhstorferi Werner, 1904 and Calotes brevipes Werner, 1904 (Squamata: Agamidae). Mitt. Mus. Natural. Berl., Sole. row, 76 (1): 143 150
HALLERMANN, Jakob (2005): With horns, Combing and gliding - the bizarre tree agamas. reptile 10 (1), NTV publishing house, Münster; 18-25 S.
HARBIG, P. & U. MARONDE (-01/1983): The genus Acathosaurus: Acanthosaura armate, A. capra, A. crucigera und A. lepidogaster. SAURIA publishing house, Berlin, page 31-33
ASK, Werner & H. Hermann SCHLEICH (2000): Quote in: JACOB HALLERMANN (2005) With horns, Combing and gliding - the bizarre tree agamas. Reptilia10(1) NTV publishing house, Münster, 18-25 S.
MANTHEY, U. & N. Schuster (1992): agamem. Herpetological specialist publisher 120 S.
MANTHEY, U. & W. GROSSMANN (1997): amphibians & Reptiles of Southeast Asia. Nature and Animal Publishing House (Münster), 512 pp.
MANTHEY, Ulrich & Norbert SCHUSTER (1999): agamem. NTV publishing house, Münster
MANTHEY, Ulrich (2008): Agamid lizards of Southern Asia, Draconinae 1. Terralog 7, 160 pp.
MANTHEY, Ulrich (2010): Agamas of southern Asia / Agamid Lizards of southern Asia: Draconinae 2 – Leiolepidinae – Frankfurt am Main, Edition Chimaira

Of all species of Japalura, this is the one with the largest distribution area in southwest China.
It extends north from Henan province, passing through gansu, Sichuan, Yunnan, Goizhou and Hubei, to the east of Hunan province.

The Green striped tree dragon lives up to an altitude of 3000 m. They are called creek buddies because they are constantly near small mountain streams or waterfalls.
The Green striped tree dragon it is a diurnal species, predominantly arboreal, herbaceous cover. The habitat can be classified as subtropical mountain forests.

The basic color of the body is brown, on the head and legs shows a yellow and green coloration. Depending on how they feel, of the course of the day, stress and courtship behavior, color range varies from bright greens to browns, going through muted dark browns to an almost black coloration.

The most striking feature of Green striped tree dragon are the dorsolateral green stripes.
In the male, stripes look straight with sharp edges and marginal lines. Dorsally (between the stripes) appears dark brown with few colored spots, respectively fine. Lines.
Female has irregularly shaped dorsolateral stripes, notched or jagged. Seen from above, there are dorsal connections at regular intervals across the back. In the resulting interspaces, darker, highlights a chain of rhombuses, which remains visible up to the base of the tail.

The toes are delicate and have claws. This makes them perfectly adapted to rocky terrain and trees..

Males reach a total length of 35 cm., the females 30 cm..

The species has a sexual dichromatism with the respective dorsolateral stripe.

The body of the male appears long and thin. The legs are clearly stronger.

Females have a round body due to egg laying. For this reason, the legs don't seem that strong.

The species is shy in nature and tends to panic. This can be counteracted with a good structure in the terrarium..

With their own offspring this tendency to panic jumps improves, but there is no guarantee.

The terrarium must be densely planted with vegetation and have sufficient depth, this gives to Green striped tree dragon a sense of security. No effort to feed these animals, rather you have to be content with watching them hunt.

It is evident that the Green striped tree dragon depends on wet leaves and running water. If you offer this, they will show a lot of activity.

At night, animals are not completely inactive, but they are alert to capture some flying insect.

It is very important that the species splendid japalure I can only stay as a couple. Females are territorial, so you can only have a female with a male.

The species is native to the high mountains of the Himalayas, where there is a climatic winter. In the terrarium you also have to make an effort to achieve it. If he terrarium placed in a cold room from the start, hibernation in the terrarium is also possible. To preserve plants, today LED lighting is available in the daylight spectrum.

Hibernation should last 4 weeks.

The species displays a rich spectrum of behavior.

Males turn completely black for courtship, only the green dosolateral stripes are visible and white patches appear on the throat. The male nods constantly, signaling their willingness to mate.

The female can also change a little color, but this is rather behavioral, until you show your anger. But, Mating only occurs when the female corresponds to the courtship of the male by briefly opening her throat. The male would never approach the female beforehand.

Mating is brief and is terminated by the female. She holds the male against the back wall during this time and then leaves the secure grip.

The female can bury exactly 4 nides at intervals of 4 weeks per season – from winter slumber to monsoon rainy season. Then it takes a break of a few weeks to return to producing 4 nides at intervals of 4 weeks in fall to hibernation. After about 90 days, the young hatch.

The Green striped tree dragon it is insectivorous, which means that these lizards feed exclusively on insects.

These lizards will be offered everything they can bear in terms of insects. They prefer flying insects like moths, flies and wasps. It should be offered as often as possible, since it is an excellent occupation. Meadowsweet plankton should be preferred, as well as various species of crickets, grasshoppers and cockroaches, even waxworms and black beetle larvae.

Insects must be well fed and, of course, still pollinated with a multivitamin and mineral preparation. Herpetal or Korvimin ZVT range with a calcium blend is recommended.

For a pair of this species a terrarium with the dimensions 100 x 60 x 100 (length x widht x hight).

The habitat is subtropical mountain forests with a flowing mountain stream and this should be recreated in a terrarium. One focuses on the essential, what are plants, soil and water.

The back walls are designed so that many plants can thrive there.

The substrate is filled high enough and moist. Plants and many branches offer the freedom of movement of a tree. A stream of water simulates the trickle of streams from a slope, which already suggests that no water is offered at the bottom of the substrate. The substrate is only visited by females to lay eggs or by insects that have strayed into it..

Sunbathing areas are subordinate, since the Green striped tree dragon prefers cooler and shady places. Lighting is mainly for plants.

Plants not only regulate the climate in the terrarium, they also serve as protection, residence and welfare for animals.

Planting with ficus species, like the "oakleaf ficus" Ficus quericifolia y Ficus scandens, is the most sensible option. It also, a variety of other plants can be chosen, all of which must tolerate high humidity and be small-leaved. These may include, the Chirita Tamiana, the Pellionia deveauna, the Hemigraphis repanda , and Parthenocissus inserta they are suitable, but it is also enough to choose the ivy Epipremnum pinnatum.

The choice of substrate is important because it must retain a lot of moisture, must not become moldy and must have good egg-laying properties. An unfertilized soil is recommended, preferably from deciduous forests.

The substrate must have 15 cm in height so that the female has optimal conditions for laying eggs. If the female feels insecure, if the substrate is too poor or not moist enough, this can lead to an egg-laying drought.

Lighting in a forest terrarium plays a subordinate role for animals, not for plants. The Japalura splendida they are not usually sun worshipers, rather they avoid a light level. It is important to avoid excessive heat by using good lighting.

Fluorescent tubes and, in the news, LEDs have proven themselves.

Example:

For a terrarium of 100 x 60 x 100 cm., 6 tubos BioVital -full spectrum, T5, with 39 High output watts have proven themselves. More and more I'm leaning towards LED lighting plus a Solar Raptor from 35 watts.

The basic temperature in the terrarium should be 27°C, but it is also necessary to foresee cooler areas. It can also be 35°C at certain points by means of a focus, but this should not raise the base values.

For the Green striped tree dragon it is much more important to achieve a night coolness of up to 12°C.

Relative humidity should be 50-60% during the day and increase to about 90% At night.

the cold night, the plants, the moist substrate and the walls, plus a waterfall, will inevitably increase humidity at night.

The price of a Green striped tree dragon ranges between 35 – 45 EUR.

Sources

HALLERMANN, Jakob (2005): Mit Hörnern, Kämmen und Gleithäuten – die bizarren Baumagamen. Reptilia 10 (1), NTV Verlag, Münster; 18-25 S.
KÄSTLE, Werner & H. Hermann SCHLEICH (2000): Zitat in: JACOB HALLERMANN (2005) Mit Hörnern, Kämmen und Gleithäuten – die bizarren Baumagamen. Reptilia10(1) NTV Verlag, Münster, 18-25 S.
Laue, E. 2009. Erfahrungen mit Krankheiten und Verlusten bei der langjährigen Pflege und Nachzucht cer Chinesischen Bergagame Japalura splendida, veranschaulicht durch drei Fallbeispiele. Iguana-Rundschreiben 22 (1): 21-30
LAUE, Esther (2005): Zur Haltung und Vermehrung der Chinesischen Bergagame Japalura splendida BARBOUR & DUNN 1919. Elaphe 13 (1): 20-30
LAUE, Esther (2007): Die Chinesische Bergagame Japalura splendida Vivaria-Verlag 95 pp.
MANTHEY, Ulrich & Norbert SCHUSTER (1999): Agamen. NTV Verlag, Münster
SCHRADIN, Heiko (2004): Haltung und Nachzucht der Chinesischen Bergagame (Japalura splendida) –Reptilia 9(5), NTV Verlag, Münster, 56-66 S.

I don't know why this beautiful reptile is called Oriental garden lizard, It may be because of the red pouch in the throat or, according to population, for his red head, but this lizard is not a Bloodsuckers. The Oriental garden lizard lives from eastern Iraq to southeast Asia in various habitats, diurnal animals live mainly on insects, small invertebrates and vertebrates to mice, only rarely do they eat plant foods.

The Oriental garden lizard (Calotes versicolor), found in open areas with shrubs and trees, often also in human settlements. They are usually solitary animals, since males are very territorial and females also react aggressively to other congeners. Males have a dorsal crest that extends from the nape to the root of the tail.. Coloration varies, usually have a yellow head and red throat. The transverse bands, which can be light or dark, are visible on the back.

Males have a distinctive dorsal crest that extends from the back of the head to the root of the tail.. Older specimens have a more massive head and a thicker tail root.. Animals show a remarkable ability to change color. In general, males are less contrasted than females.

The splendid coloration of the male is characteristic. At first there is a pale yellowish coloration of the head and a greenish yellow neck and back. The neck and back end up changing color to a dark blackish brown, while the throat and head stand out for their intense red coloration. A black band emerges from the throat to the cheeks. Limbs become very dark, while the tail clears. Females have a short nuchal crest.

Although the Oriental garden lizard can be found relatively frequently and at a fairly low price in the trade, not easy to raise, so many wild-caught animals are still being sold. Unfortunately, these beautiful animals are often kept incorrectly. The Oriental garden lizard must be kept in pairs or groups with one male and several females

Its terrarium it must be big. A length of 180-200 cm., a height of 130 cm and a depth of 70 cm..

In principle, the caregiver of terrarium you can design the tank as you like. It is important that there is plenty of room to climb and that the relative humidity is not less than the 70%. In the warmest place, lizards need a temperature of around 40°C.

for breeding, it is important to have males and females of the same range. Otherwise, there will be no synchronization in sexual maturity and reproduction will remain an unfulfilled dream.

A single female from the population shown here from Vietnam produced no less than 25 eggs! So, breeding can be quite productive.

You can only have one male per terrarium, otherwise there will be murder and manslaughter. terrarium is big enough, can be kept 2-3 females, but it is safer to keep them in pairs.

Any live food available on the market corresponding to its size can be used as food for the Oriental garden lizard, but baby mice are used very rarely, if they are used. Of course, the diet must be varied and always well pollinated. To cover the low need for plant food, suitable plants can be planted in the terrarium, preferably in pots.

After the "dry period", the males will begin to mate, so its coloring is especially attractive, and if they keep well, mating will also occur. The females will put up 20 eggs that must be incubated for about 80 days. Juveniles should be kept as adults, with live food appropriate to its size.

The price of a "Oriental garden lizard" ranges between 15 – 20 EUR.

1. Oriental garden lizard, Eastern garden lizard, Indian garden lizard, Common garden lizard, Bloodsucker, or Changeable lizard (English).
2. Agame versicolore, Galéote versicolore, Lézard arlequin, Agame arlequin (French).
3. Blutsaugeragame, Verschiedenfarbige Schönechse bezeichnet (German).
4. Lagarto-de-Jardim-Oriental, Lagarto comum do jardim, Lagarto jardim indiano (Portuguese).
5. Lagarto bosque de Emma versicolor, Lagarto de jardín Oriental (español).