โ–ท The world of Pets: Dogs, cats, birds, reptiles, amphibians

Madagascar day gecko
- Phelsuma madagascariensis

Thanks to the special adhesive foils on your fingers, the Madagascar day gecko not only moves on the smoothest surfaces, but even clings to the glass upside down without problems.
Madagascar day gecko
A โ€œMadagascar day geckoโ€ in the Lausanne nursery – Gzzz, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons(Switzerland)

Content

Origin

The Madagascar day gecko is native to the eastern coast of Madagascar and usually lives there as a supposed follower of the culture in the proximity of humans. It is not uncommon to find them on the walls of cabins, on rooftops and banana plantations.

Characteristics

The Madagascar day gecko is a lizard of strong constitution, grows quite a lot, with one head-torso length up to approximately 14 cm.. The basic coloring is green, with dark red spots on the back and top of the head. A distinctive feature is the red line that runs from the nostril, passing through the eye, to the temple: like a red Zorro mask!

In case of stress, discomfort or fear, This Gecko can darken its coloration quickly and intensely.
As they do not have eyelids, His "bulging eyes" have a special charm for us. They clean themselves again and again with their own tongues as if they were dirty glasses.

Habitat

This Gecko lives in the trees of the primary forest, in plantations and even homes. They live in an environment where the degree of humidity is very high (at least the 80%). The daytime temperatures oscillate between the 25 and 30 ยฐC during the day and drop to 20 ยฐC at night. In winter, the temperature drops to about 25ยฐC during the day and 15ยฐC at night, for about two months.

The "Madagascar day gecko" in captivity

Madagascar day gecko
Phelsuma madagascariensis madagascariensis, macho en terrario – Manuel Werner, Nuertingen, Germany, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

With the right care and accommodation, the Madagascar day gecko is a grateful animal that gives a lot of pleasure to its owners. But, the conditions and needs of these animals mentioned here must be met.

Next we want to show you some special characteristics of this species in general for its care in the terrarium. Here, animal welfare comes first.

Terrarium

Terrariums for the Madagascar day gecko must be of sufficient height, since all species are arboreal. As a key to the size of the terrarium we recommend calculating with the head-torso length of the animal. The size of the terrarium is calculated as follows for non-adult animals:

  • Terrarium floor space: Four times x three times the head-torso length of the animal.
  • Height of the terrarium: Four times the head-torso length of the animal.
Terrarium measurements: 100 x 60 x 120 cm. (for 1-2 animals)

Observe the growth of the animal in the coming months (fast-growing animal/slow-growing animal) For adult animals (of legal age), the various institutions in Germany give guidelines on the size of the terrarium.

Terrarium installation

The Madagascar day gecko is an excellent climber, you are almost never seen on the ground. Various cork branches, cork tubes and bamboo canes have a decorative appearance and provide the animal with space to walk, including the coveted spot for sunbathing under the point of ultraviolet light. As such, place a branch or root at the right distance from the light source so that the right temperature is created in it. They will also willingly accept some vertical climbing opportunities..

It also, the terrarium must be well decorated with plants. Artificial plants are a practical option in this case, as they can be easily cleaned of droppings.

The suitable substrate is the bark bed (Also called "crust") and the land of the terrarium. Some moss cushions are decorative and regulate humidity. Droppings and food scraps should be removed daily.

Temperature and lighting of the terrarium

The Madagascar day gecko resides in tropical habitats.

Since reptiles are thermal animals, you have to simulate their natural habitat in the terrarium: temperature and humidity. This is achieved by various heat/light sources and water misting/spraying. (sprinkler system).

One thermometer/hygrometer allows the caregiver to control these values. Animals have excellent eyesight and visual acuity. Depend on sufficient lighting. So, is mandatory a good lighting of the terrarium. They also need a sunny spot in the terrarium. This is created by spot lighting, that provides light, heat and UV rays. The highest quality products are necessary here, because only they are equal to the natural light of the sun.

The Madagascar day gecko see the colors in the ultraviolet range, so you can't perceive your surroundings normally without adequate light. It also, only an optimal supply of UV-B light provides enough vitamin D3 for young animals to grow optimally and adults to also be in top shape and display their bright colors.. We recommend the JBL L-U-W Light, which is available in different powers and in the version ยซDesertยป o ยซJungleยซ. This type of lighting provides light, heat and UVA/UVB rays. As a caregiver, can get an especially good climate (and easy to control) using a heating mat under part of the floor of your terrarium.

Although the Madagascar day gecko does not go down to the ground to warm up, yes it heats the basic temperature of the high terrarium -which by design is similar to a fireplace- from below. These terrariums usually have too low temperatures in the lower half of the terrarium outside of summer., so the fry have a hot back and a cold belly. The heating mat must be accompanied by a thermostat. In this way, always get the right climate, as the heating mat turns on automatically when needed. A plus point is the more favorable energy consumption in terms of the environment, since terrariums operated in this way not only require lower power for point lamps, but also, usually, fix themselves with less energy.

For uniform lighting of your terrarium as decoration of your living space, we recommend the LED lighting across the entire terrarium. Light and heating sources are always turned on and off at a daily rate using a timer, 14h on, 10h off.

Nutrition

Exoterra Day Gecko Food
Exoterra Day Gecko Food

The Madagascar day gecko is a fast and agile hunter. The insects that serve as food (crickets, grasshopper, etc.) are always sprinkled with mixtures of vitamins and minerals. This is the only way to avoid irreversible deficiencies, which can often lead to serious illness or even death in young animals and pregnant females, for example.

The feed animals they must always be adapted to the size of the diurnal gecko. Feed only insects that will be eaten directly. Otherwise, feeding animals would disperse around the terrarium, they would hide away and get rid of the attached vitamins/minerals – the result is malnutrition and malnutrition despite food supplies.

It also, yet Madagascar day gecko in nature likes to lick overripe fruits and nectar.

Con ยซExoterra Day Gecko Foodยป small glasses are obtained already prepared with a suitable food porridge. Not offered on the ground, but permanently in the so-called "cup holders" at a high height.

Social behavior and reproduction

The Madagascar day gecko can be maintained individually, in pairs or in a group constellation of one male with several females. Males are always incompatible with each other.

The females of the speciesPhelsumaยป put 1-2 eggs after a few 28 days, until 5 times a year. Some species stick eggs to the substrate. The eggs harden quickly in air and the females of the โ€œegg glue speciesโ€ stick together. 2 eggs each. They like to do it in small cavities like bamboo canes or cork tubes.. The young hatch after 42-70 days.

Curiosities

Thanks to the special adhesive foils on your fingers, the Madagascar day gecko not only moves on the smoothest surfaces, but even clings to the glass upside down without problems. In doing so, develop true superpowers through the call adhesion: thanks to their feet covered with billions of fine hairs, make use of the forces of Van der Waals and electrostatic forces.

On the sides of the back of the head they have small "calcium sacs", which serve females to store calcium in preparation for egg formation.

In the wild, They guarantee their survival against predators by shedding their tails and "molting in a startled manner". If a hunter grabs them by the trunk, the skin sheds and the daytime salamander escapes. Tail and skin regenerate in case of emergency.

For sale "Madagascar day gecko"

The price of a Madagascar day gecko at the exotic animal market, bred in captivity, ranges between 50 – 80 EUR.

Videos "Madagascar day gecko"

Phelsuma Madagascariensis Grandis

Phelsuma madascariensis already adapted (daytime gecko)

Alternative names:

1. Madagascar Giant Day Gecko (English).
2. Gecko de Madagascar, Gecko diurne gรฉant de Madagascar (French).
3. Phelsuma madagascariensi (German).
4. Gecko gigante do dia (Portuguese).
5. Perenquรฉn diurno de Madagascar (espaรฑol).

โ–ท The world of Pets: Dogs, cats, birds, reptiles, amphibians

West African mud turtle
- Pelusios castaneus

The West African mud turtle it is extremely adaptable and can be found in all types of waters. Pools, ponds, lakes, rivers…
West African mud turtle
West African mud turtle – Loran, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Content

Origin / Distribution

The call Seychelles black terrapin, Seychelles mud turtle or Seychelles aquatic turtle was considered a species of turtle (Pelusios seychellensis) family Pelomedusidae, endemic to Seychelles.

But, genetic analysis of the lectotype has shown that this turtle was never a separate species and, in fact, It Pelusios castaneus.

The West African mud turtle (Pelusios castaneus) it is one of the most widespread turtle species in Africa. It is present practically throughout the Atlantic coast of the black continent: from southern Mauritania, Senegal, passing through Gambia, Guinea-Bissau, Guinea, Sierra Leone, Liberia, Ivory Coast, Ghana, Togo, Benin, Nigeria, Cameroon and as far north-west of the Central African Republic. It also, looking south from Cameroon, the species colonizes an area of Equatorial Guinea, Gabon, Congo, DR Congo and reaches the northernmost part of Angola.

The species is also found in Sรฃo Tomรฉ, an island off Gabon. There is a human population in the Caribbean, on the island of Guadeloupe, where it probably comes from the slaves who carried the animals as live food (the turtle is still eaten today, it will be discussed later). There is also said to be a feral population in Florida., these animals would have been abandoned by an animal trader.

Characteristics / Appearance

West African mud turtle
Pelusios castaneus by Laurent LeboisFlickr

Large turtle, rather flat, with oval and elongated dorsal carapace, which has the largest width in the back area. Adults have a slightly separated vertebra at the front and a slightly separated vertebra toward the rear. Both vertebrae are wider than they are long.

The margin of the shell is smooth and not sawn. The dorsal carapace is mostly dark brown to black. The ventral shell forms a closed solid plate and is slightly narrower in the posterior region than in the anterior region.. The background color of the plastron is yellow in the center with a brown-black tint towards the edges. The skin is light gray to beige.

The head is mottled with a distinctive pattern, characteristic of each individual, as a fingerprint. On the chin there is 2 short, closed beards. The front legs also have scales and all the feet have strong claws..

Males have a shell length of about 20 cm.. Females can reach up to 38 cm of shell length, but they are usually much smaller (~ 25 cm of shell length). In addition to the usual elongated tail, the most conspicuous secondary sexual characteristic of males is a distinctly concave plastron.

Habitat

The West African mud turtle it is extremely adaptable and can be found in all types of waters. Pools, ponds, lakes, rivers… is at home everywhere. In much of its range, living waters dry up during 6-7 months per year, time that the P. castaneus passes buried in the substrate. But, there are also rainforest species that have water all year round.

The West African mud turtle nor is it very demanding in terms of food. Feeds on insects, snails, carrion, small fish, amphibians and, occasionally, fruits and seeds. The species is also very fertile. Large females can easily produce two clutches a year with up to 18 eggs.

Behavior

The West African mud turtle It is carnivorous and feeds on aquatic prey.. The feeding consists of five phases: preliminary fixation of the head on the dam, the adjustment of the head fixation, the final approach of the head, prey grip followed by handling and transport, and suction, which results in the ingestion after which the prey is swallowed. The final phase varies depending on whether the prey is fast, like a fish, or slow, as a gastropod mollusk.

Threats to the species

State of conservation โ“˜


minor concern Minor Concern โ“˜ (UICN)โ“˜

Unfortunately, today one can hardly talk about turtles without talking about the threatened situation of the species. Given its huge distribution area and its great adaptability, the West African mud turtle shouldn't be endangered. But, natural populations in most of its range have not been studied scientifically. Hardly any funds are allocated to field research, so hardly anything is known about the evolution of the population.

Scientists from Nigeria follow a very interesting approach: They regularly visit markets where โ€œbush meatโ€ is offered for consumption.. This includes, of course, these species of turtles. Unfortunately, during these visits it was necessary to verify that the populations of turtles of the genus Kinixys are in clear decline. But, the West African mud turtle not yet considered endangered and not subject to international trade restrictions.

The "West African mud turtle" in captivity

Aquaterrarium

Due to the climatic conditions of the country of origin, the size of the animals (up to a maximum of 38 cm of shell length!) and its activity, the West African mud turtle needs large, air-conditioned aquaterrariums with plenty of space to swim all year round.

The water section for an adult animal must have a minimum size of 150 x 60 cm and a water depth of at least 50 cm.. In addition to the free swimming areas, the water part must be structured with stones, branches and plants to offer animals stimulation and variety.

In addition to a sunny area on land and the mandatory egg-laying area when having females, the facility must also offer shallow water areas. Floating plants on the surface of the water offer protection and invite you to rest on the surface.

Although the West African mud turtle does not sunbathe as extensively as, for example, "North American ornamental turtles", the sunbathing area is frequently visited and used, so it must always be available.

Equipment

West African mud turtle
Pelusios chestnut en Aquaterrarium – Carsten Beeg, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Standard tank technical equipment includes fluorescent daylight tubes, heat radiators over the shallow water/stunning area and, occasionally, on the egg-laying area, external filter, heater, thermometer and timer. As an alternative, instead of daylight fluorescent tubes and heat radiators, powerful HQI radiators can be installed to illuminate a part of the tank and generate sufficient temperatures locally in the sunbathing area.

As for water and air temperatures, you must follow the climatic guidelines in the seasonal change of the country of origin (West Africa). In tropical areas there is also a day/night variation, as well as seasonal differences, although less pronounced than here.
A rough guideline is a water temperature of 25-28ยฐ and a local air temperature of up to 40ยฐ in the sun. You can get a night setback by turning off the heating at night.

Summer lethargy does not necessarily have to be applied in captivity. But, animals should not be kept at constantly high temperatures throughout the year. For a few weeks, or even months, should simulate colder phases at a water temperature of about 20-24ยฐ. Transitions should be gradual and the temperature should be increased or decreased over a few days.

Food

The West African mud turtle does not have high food requirements. Eat anything offered to you as animal feed. The spectrum ranges from dry food (Lundi pellets, colored koi pellets, Sera Raffy P pellets, gammarus and dried fish, brekkies), to fish (various freshwater fish, smelts, pollock, etc.), mussel meat, common earthworm, heart of veal and mice (little mice and jumpers).

In addition to the aquatic plants present in the tank (Juncos, duckweeds, horn, duckweed, water hyacinth, water cabbage), green food is regularly offered (dandelion, Canons, oak leaf lettuce, Cucumber, zucchini and tomatoes).

Reproduction

Like almost all male turtles, the males of the West African mud turtle are always willing to mate, but their courtship behavior is more moderate and less aggressive than that of many other species. However, the sexes must be kept separate for a part of the year for the females to rest.

The courtship exhibition of this species can last several hours. First the male tries head and neck movements to attract attention. If the female is interested and does not avoid it, the male seeks direct body contact, pushing your nose. If the female then indicates that she is willing to mate by brief choppy head movements, the male rides. At no time does it try to bite the female.

Adult females need a place of oviposition of at least 60 x 50 x 50, since they bury their laying of up to 22-32 eggs very deep in the sand.

Hibernation

The West African mud turtle does not hibernate due to the climatic demands of the countries of origin (West Africa). However, day/night latency, as well as seasonal differences, must be simulated with technical aids.

Buy one "West African mud turtle"

All turtles pelomedus are not internationally protected species, so wild-caught specimens remain regularly available in the reptile trade. Wild catches are often surprisingly hard, weakened by long transport and numerous intermediate stops. If you have the opportunity, do not hesitate to buy european pups. The young are much more stable and less susceptible to diseases.

The price of a "West African mud turtle" at the exotic animal market, bred in captivity, ranges between 25 – 50 EUR.

Videos "West African mud turtle"

African Mud Turtles (Castaneus Fluff) - Africa Turtles

AFRICAN BOX TURTLE - CASTANEUS FLUFF

Alternative names:

1. West African mud turtle, West African side-necked turtle or swamp terrapin (English).
2. Pรฉluse de Schweigger (French).
3. Westafrikanische Klappbrust-Pelomedusenschildkrรถte, Westafrikanische Seitenhalsschildkrรถte oder Sumpfschildkrรถte bekannt (German).
4. Tartaruga de lama da รfrica Ocidental, Tartaruga de pescoรงo lateral da รfrica Ocidental ou pรขntano (Portuguese).
5. Tortuga del barro de รfrica Occidental, Tortuga de caja africana (espaรฑol).

โ–ท The world of Pets: Dogs, cats, birds, reptiles, amphibians

African helmeted turtle
- Pelomedusa subrufa

The African helmeted turtle is very popular among turtle fans. Animals live both in water and on land.
African helmeted turtle
An African helmeted turtle (Pelomedusa subrufa) closes at ground level. – Charles J. Sharp, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Content

Origin / Distribution

Since 2014 ten species have been distinguished. It also, there are two others that have not yet been fully classified:

  • Pelomedusa galeata
  • Pelomedusa subrufa.

  • Other subspecies:

    Pelomedusa barbata, Pelomedusa gehalfie, Pelomedusa kobe, Pelomedusa neumanni, Pelomedusa olivacea, Pelomedusa schweinfurthi, Pelomedusa somailca, Pelomedusa variabilis.

    The African helmeted turtle, whose scientific name is Pelomedusa subrufa, lives in southern and eastern Africa and in the southwestern Arabian Peninsula. The distribution area extends from Senegal in the west to Madagascar in the east and to South Africa.. So far, it was assumed that it was a single species that inhabited this wide area. But, There are many species, some of which have very small home ranges.

    Characteristics / Appearance

    The African helmeted turtle has a very round and flat shell. It is dark brown to olive green in color.. The plastron is usually black, but may also have a yellow/horned coloration.

    The skin is dark in color on top. Like this, the upper part of the tail is black and the extremities dark gray. The underside of the head is light gray, almost white. The African helmeted turtle he has a round head, short snout and round eyes. they also smile. Sex is recognized by the tail. The tail of the males is longer and thicker than that of the females..

    They are called neck spinners. (Pleurodia) and, Therefore, they cannot fit their heads vertically into the S-shaped shell. On the other hand, they put it on its side, horizontal s-shaped, against the body.

    Size: The Pelomedusa reach a length of 14 to 30 cm and weighing up to more than 2 kg, depending on the species. The males grow a little more. The Pelemedusa subrufa it is the smallest species, Medusa galeata the largest.

    Life expectancy: 30-50 years

    Habitat

    Preferred habitat is swamps and still waters. It also sometimes temporarily inhabits existing waters and travels considerable distances to reach new habitats.. If accessible waters dry up, is buried until 5 cm deep in the mud. Depending on the exact area of โ€‹โ€‹origin, temperatures can vary greatly between day and night.

    Behavior

    The African helmeted turtle it is a relatively peaceful turtle and predominantly crepuscular or nocturnal. They spend a lot of time on the bottom and also like to burrow in the sand.. In the African winter months, they maintain a dry dormancy and bury themselves in the mud to do so. Dry torpor is followed by the rainy season, during which animals become extremely active.

    Threats to the species

    No conservation status. But, Saudi Arabia is currently working on conservation measures for the various species that are not as widespread. Until very recently, one of the species was assumed to be distributed throughout Africa. But, there are several and one species is already in serious danger of extinction.

    The "African helmeted turtle" in captivity

    African helmeted turtle
    "African shield turtle" (Pelomedusa subrufa) in the Natural History Museum and Vivarium of Tournai (Belgium) – Vassil, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Aquaterrarium

    The African helmeted turtle needs a large aquaterrarium (minimum requirement 5ร—2.5 (LxA) of carapace length, that is to say, 130-150 cm length depending on the species). The water level should be 30-40 cm.. It also, They need a large land area that accounts for approximately 1/3 of the total area. This should be filled especially with moist sand or substrate, for the ones pelomedus can dig during dry break. For dry idle, the water level must drop constantly to simulate the desiccation of the natural habitat. The dry break is followed by the rainy season, during which the water level must be replenished.

    Egg laying place: When you have females, an egg-laying place is always necessary. However, these turtles must have a sand pit large enough to rest dry.

    Lighting and temperature

    They should not miss the sources of ultraviolet light and heat. To the African helmeted turtle likes to sunbathe on land and also needs high temperatures. The water must also be heated (to. 22-30ยฐ), as our ambient temperatures are well below African conditions. Heaters that are attached directly to the tank are not recommended, since glass bodies don't necessarily support turtles. A heater built into the filter is more suitable. This heater must work with a timer to guarantee night emission. Spot heaters prevent animals from getting cold when they get out of the hot water. If the temperature of the air is lower than that of the water, pneumonia can occur. Fluorescent tubes provide enough light in the tank. In any case, need a big filter. In the case of aquatic turtles, it is said to always use a filter that can handle one and a half times the actual amount of water, since turtles pollute the water more than fish.

    Diet

    Turtles Pelomedus have a predominantly carnivorous diet. The right food is earthworms, the snails, mussels and fish. A cuttlefish bone should be available. In the wild it also feeds on frogs and carrion.. It has also been observed that pelomedus they snatch and drown the birds that bathe. Plant food includes aquatic plants, estate, flowers and fruits. But, they also eat them only in the water.

    Buy one "African helmeted turtle"

    most of the turtles Pelomedusa found in the animal trade in Europe are called 'subrufa" in the shops.

    The price for the offspring of the "African helmeted turtle" at the exotic animal market, ranges between 25 – 40 EUR.

    Videos "African helmeted turtle"

    Pelomedusa Subrufa Y Pelusios Castaneus

    Pelomedusa subrufa (movie 08) - Blood Feeding time.

    Alternative names:

    1. African helmeted turtle, Marsh terrapin, Crocodile turtle, African side-necked turtle (English).
    2. Tortue ร  cou cachรฉ d'Afrique, Pรฉlomรฉduse rousse, Pรฉlomรฉduse roussรขtre (French).
    3. Starrbrust-Pelomedusen (German).
    4. Tartaruga-de-capacete-africano, Tartaruga de pรขntano, Tartaruga de crocodilo, Tartaruga-de-pescoรงo-africano (Portuguese).
    5. "Tortuga de escudo africana", Tortuga de casco (espaรฑol).

    โ–ท The world of Pets: Dogs, cats, birds, reptiles, amphibians

    Green iguana
    - Iguana iguana

    The Green iguana is a large reptile with a powerful body that can reach a length of almost two meters.
    Green iguana
    Green iguana (Iguana iguana) juvenile, Grand Cayman – Charles J. Sharp, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Content

    Origin / Distribution

    The Green iguana (Iguana iguana) belongs to the iguana family (Iguanidae). There are two subspecies, Iguana iguana iguana and Iguana iguana rhinolopha. The latter has two or three horns on the muzzle and thus can be distinguished from the Iguana iguana. A few years ago two other subspecies of the Green iguana: Iguana iguana insularis and Iguana iguana sanctaluciae.

    The native range of the Green iguana (Iguana iguana) stretches from southern Mexico to central Brazil, Paraguay and Bolivia and the Caribbean; specifically Grenada, Aruba, Curacao, Trinidad and Tobago, St. Lucia, San Vicente and รštila. They have been introduced in Grand Cayman, Puerto Rico, Hispaniola (in the Dominican Republic), Guadalupe, Texas, Florida, Hawaii and the U.S. Virgin Islands USA. It also, green iguanas colonized the island of Anguilla in 1995 after being swept away by a hurricane. Although the species is not native to Martinique, in the historic Fort of San Luis there is a small wild colony of green iguanas released or escaped.

    Characteristics / Appearance

    What does a Green iguana?

    The Green iguana is a large reptile with a powerful body that can reach a length of almost two meters. But, the average size of a Green iguana is closer to the 1,50 m, much of which is due to its long tail. The body grows to a few 50 cm in males and some 40 cm in females. When fully developed, the Green iguana weighs about ten kilograms. With good care, They can live up to 20 years.

    Young iguanas are characterized by a strong green color. With the age, green coloration decreases and becomes darker, sometimes even brown or grayish. They have a crest on the back and tail and usually have dark bands on the body and tail.. The head is characterized by a blunt snout, from which hangs a membranous gular pouch with a large jagged crest.

    As inhabitants of the trees, the Green iguana can climb well. Their sharp claws also help them do that.. Diurnal animals can also swim well. As for his character, green iguanas are considered curious, sensitive and relatively confident, although, of course, they are not at all cuddly animals. If the danger threatens, the Green iguana can wag tail like lizards. Then it grows back, but it falls shorter.

    Wide variety of colors

    Green is not the only color that can be shown by Green iguanas. Its hue is usually bluish and can change throughout your life. Many Green Iguanass become more and more pink, brown, grey or almost black. The Green iguanas are characterized by their scaly and delicate skin. A thorny ridge runs through the back of reptiles; have a double chin under their chin.

    Habitat

    The natural habitat of the Green iguana are the rainforests of the lowlands, in the vicinity of large bodies of water. Populations in coastal regions with low rainfall are extremely rare.

    Behavior

    Animals are diurnal and spend most of their time in trees and like to bathe. Although they are considered sociable, there is usually only one adult male in a group. It is important to keep this in mind when keeping them in a terrarium., otherwise fights may occur. A Green iguana can even become meek, which is noticeable in the fact that he greets contact persons by nodding his head..

    Threats to the species

    State of conservation โ“˜


    minor concern Minor Concern โ“˜ (UICN)โ“˜

    The Green iguana is included in Appendix II of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES), which means that international trade is regulated by the CITES permit system. It also, the Green iguana is classified as Least Concern by the IUCN, mentioning that habitat depletion by development is a potential concern for populations of Green iguana in the future. Historically, green iguana meat and eggs have been consumed as a source of protein throughout their range, and are appreciated for their supposed medicinal and aphrodisiac properties. Efforts have been made in the past to breed green iguanas in captivity as a food source in an attempt to encourage more sustainable land use in Panama and Costa Rica..

    The "Green iguana" in captivity

    The terrarium

    • Type of terrarium Jungle or tree terrarium
    • Temperature of 25 to 30 degrees Celsius during the day, 20-25 degrees Celsius at night
    • Humidity High humidity
    • Need for sun A sunny place per animal is required with temperatures of approximately 35 – 40 Celsius degrees.

    If you want to have a Green iguana, you need a lot of space. Since these animals can reach two meters or more, a medium-sized terrarium is not enough for good conservation. Yes, you Green iguana has to live tight, won't feel comfortable with you. The minimum size of the terrarium for a Green iguana adult should be 300 x 200 x 250 centimeters. Young animals are raised in a smaller terrarium. It is important to have a sufficient height with many climbing branches so that the animals can climb. Animals like to rest on horizontal branches under a spotlight.

    If several animals are housed in the same terrarium, they need enough hiding places so they don't look all the time. Thick PVC pipes into which a board or floor is inserted are suitable for this purpose. The ground should be covered with sphagnum, sawdust, linoleum or tiles. Coatings with sharp edges, such as expanded clay or gravel, are absolutely inadequate.

    Even with a spacious terrarium, is controversial among terrarium enthusiasts whether the Green iguana must be kept in a terrarium in general. As an alternative, if you have the opportunity, it's a good idea to host the Green iguana in your own reptile room. As long as you can create in it the right weather conditions, this option is preferable to a large terrarium.

    Temperature and humidity in the terrarium

    Green iguana
    Adult green iguana – Cy, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    A rainforest or tree terrarium is suitable for maintaining a Green iguana. It doesn't matter which variant you choose: Temperatures and humidity must be adequate for green iguanas to feel comfortable in them. Temperatures should range from 25 and 35 degrees during the day and at least 20 degrees at night. It also creates a warmer place where the temperature is between 40 and 45 degrees Celsius. If you have several animals in the same terrarium, each of them needs what is called a sun point.

    The humidity of the terrarium should be between the 60 and the 80 percent during the day and between 80 and the 95 percent at night. Animals also need UV-B lighting for about twelve hours a day.. To adapt the climate to the natural habitat, animals and terrarium should be sprayed with water daily. During the winter period (December-April), the climate must be maintained 5 cooler and drier degrees Celsius. To avoid bacteria and mold, the terrarium should also be well ventilated.

    Tips for decoration

    Equip the terrarium or reptile room with enough branches and trunks to climb and rest. Branches for climbing should be at least as thick as the trunk of the lizard. Rocks are also useful, the roots and the cork caves. It is also important to have a water basin with a temperature of about 25 degrees Celsius. It is best to heat it with a bottom heater or a heater in the filter.

    You can use real or artificial plants in the terrarium of your iguanas. Real plants are good for the climate, but they can be crushed or eaten. So, real plants must definitely be non-toxic. The substrate must be dry and absorbent.

    Care and nutrition

    Green iguana
    Male Green Iguana (Iguana iguana) of wildlife in the Botanical Garden of Portoviejo, Ecuador – First, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    So that your Green iguana stays well, prudent care is essential. Good care starts with diet. The green iguanas are vegetarian, so animal foods shouldn't be on your menu. Exceptions are young iguanas and pregnant females, whose diet should consist of a 15% of animal feed (insects and eggs).

    A varied diet is important to ensure a sufficient supply of nutrients. Leafy greens should make up the main part of the diet, around the 60%. These may include, can be fed with dandelion, Canons, clover, rib or parsley grass. To the green iguanas they also like cabbage. The 40% remaining diet should consist of flowers (30%) and fruits (10%). Papaya, strawberries, mandarins or prickly pear figs are suitable. The foliage of trees is particularly greedily consumed by animals. You can supplement your diet with vitamin and mineral supplements to prevent malnutrition. Animal feed should never exceed the 5%. Its excess can cause kidney problems in animals.

    Hygiene also plays an important role in maintaining green iguanas. Infestation with parasites such as mites and worms is relatively common in green iguanas. Thorough hygiene prevents pathogens and, Therefore, diseases. Remove food scraps and droppings every day, change the water daily and clean the entire terrarium regularly. Diseases that are comparatively common in green iguanas include putrefaction of the mouth, tail necrosis and intestinal and respiratory diseases.

    How many green iguanas can you keep together?

    In the wild, the Green iguana lives in groups consisting of one male and several females. So, you should not maintain a Green iguana individually. You can keep them in pairs or in a small group with a maximum of one male.. The latter option is more relaxed for females, since during the mating season a single female is not too harassed by the male.

    It is not recommended to keep several males together. Especially dominant males do not get along with each other. Especially in the season of heat, animals have a marked territorial behavior, which can lead to bloody conflicts between males. In any case, they should only be kept together in very large terrariums with enough hiding places.

    Iguanas also get along well with the turtle (Terrapene) of the warmest regions. On the other hand, the Common basilisk (Basiliscus basiliscus) wave Marine iguana (Amblyrhynchus cristatus) should not be kept together with the green iguanas. The similar appearance in terms of physique and color can cause stress in animals.

    Are green iguanas suitable for beginners?

    It is not the same to have a reptile in the living room of the house than a cat, a dog or rabbit. These exotic inhabitants need adequate climatic conditions and can suffer damage if poorly maintained.. Some species are so demanding that it is desirable or necessary to have previous experience in maintaining terrariums..

    The green iguanas fall into this category. They are less forgiving of breeding errors than other reptiles. So, this species of iguana is not the best choice for beginners. Inadequate breeding conditions can lead to illness or premature death of the animal.

    Just because of the size of the animals, you should think carefully about whether you can really meet the requirements to have green iguanas. A standard terrarium is usually not enough to keep large reptiles. Don't be dazzled by the small size of very young animals in pet stores. Must be able to offer the animal the space it needs when it has grown.

    Buy one "Green iguana"

    The green iguanas can be purchased from reputable breeders. Make sure the maintenance conditions are good and the animals look clean, well fed and, in general, healthy. You can also find them at a rescue center or animal shelter.. The pet shop is also a place to go, but here it is not known where the animals come from or under what conditions they have been raised.

    For reasons of protection of species and the environment, you should not buy wild-caught animals, especially since they are usually in a worse state of health than the offspring.

    The green iguanas cost between 50 and 100 euros per copy. Adult specimens are more expensive, just like the rarest color varieties. The costs of the terrarium and its equipment are much higher than those of the animals themselves. You also have to take into account the costs of food and electricity.

    Frequently Asked Questions about the Green Iguana

    Green iguana
    Green iguana – Photo by David J. pole, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    How many years do green iguanas live?

    Live some 10 years.

    Where do green iguanas live??

    Its natural habitat is in central and central South America., and prefers rainforests and savannah forests with proximity to water. In the news, the iguana is also native to some Caribbean islands and parts of Florida.

    What size should a terrarium be for an iguana?

    Due to its size, iguanas need very large terrariums with dimensions of approximately 300 x 200 x 250 cm..

    How can I distinguish male iguanas from females??

    Animals are not easy to distinguish. Male iguanas have a larger throat pouch, larger femoral pores, a thicker tail root and a wider head than females when they are between one and two years old. During the mating season, males have a red color, more intense orange or gold. They are also usually more dominant than females.

    How do green iguanas reproduce??

    In the wild, animals copulate at the beginning of the dry season, while in captivity they behave differently. In this case, it may be helpful to keep animals apart for a while to stimulate them. If a couple is lying next to each other, sometimes there is a vigorous courtship with head movements that is followed by a mating.

    Do iguanas become meek?

    If iguanas grow with human contact from an early age, they become tame and you can handle them without leather gloves. Animals that are not used to humans can react aggressively and hit with their tails., scratch with claws and bite. But, with a lot of patience, even the oldest animals can be domesticated by hand.

    How are iguanas domesticated??

    It is best to feed by hand the green iguanas regularly to get them used to. To feed them, you can also put them on your arm and keep them at eye level while you talk to them.. In this way, you can also show the animals to the veterinarian or move them without problems.

    Videos "Green iguana"

    IGUANAS - The green iguana as a pet. How is it? What do you need? What do you eat??

    The fascinating Green Iguana

    Alternative names:

    1. Green iguana, American iguana, Common green iguana (English).
    2. Iguane vert, Iguane commun (French).
    3. Grรผner Leguan (German).
    4. Iguana-verde, Iguana-comum, Iguano, Sinimbu, Cambaleรฃo, Senembi, Senembu, Tijibu (Portuguese).
    5. "Iguana verde", Iguana comรบn (espaรฑol).

    โ–ท The world of Pets: Dogs, cats, birds, reptiles, amphibians

    Amazon tree boa
    - Corallus hortulanus

    The Amazon tree boa it is a popular pet with snake fanciers and is a fairly common export in the pet trade.
    Amazon tree boa
    Amazon tree boa – Tambopata, Mother of God, Peru. – Geoff French, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Content

    Origin / Distribution

    There are two subspecies of Amazon tree boa. Corallus hortulanus hortulanus is found in the Guianas, the Amazon and southeastern Brazil (to the Tropic of Capricorn). Corallus hortulanus cooki is found in southern Central America, the north of Colombia, the north of Venezuela, Trinidad and Tobago and the southern Windward Islands (San Vicente and the Bank of Granada).

    Characteristics / Appearance

    The Amazon tree boa is well known for its highly variable color and patterns. They have small vestigial hind limb remnants in the cloacal region. Its base color varies from pale tan to black., with yellowish and reddish hues. They are marked by a series of spots or bands that are usually wider in the middle of the back.. The head has five dark stripes that extend from the eyes..

    The color of the belly is also variable, from cream to reddish brown, and with or without darker markings. Eyes may be yellow, grayish or reddish, and they have a reflective membrane that makes them shine at night. the tongue is black. Males and females are similar in size and markings.. Its length varies between 525 and 1880 mm, usually between 1200 and 1500 mm.

    Life expectancy

    There are no records of longevity in the literature. The half life of Amazon tree boa in captivity is about 20 years.

    Habitat

    The Amazon tree boa found in a wide variety of habitats. They are common in arboreal regions with high humidity, especially in the Amazon rainforest. They can also be found in dry areas, such as savannas or dry forests.

    Most of the Corallus hortulanus specimens studied are found at 1 or 2 m or more from the ground in trees or other vegetation. They have also been observed active on the ground. The Amazon tree boa also relatively common along rivers.

    Behavior

    Amazon tree boa
    Corallus hortulanus at the Joรฃo Moojen Zoology Museum (Museum of Zoology Joรฃo Moojen, MZUFV) at the Federal University of Viรงosa (UFV), in Viรงosa-MG, Brazil. – Mateus S. Figueiredo, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    The Amazon tree boa it is a notoriously aggressive species. when threatened, bites and curls. when it is handled, can form a ball, contract and twist the body. They are solitary and can be active both at night and during the day..

    Reproduction

    Courtship behavior consists of โ€œtail waggingโ€ around the enclosure. Once it has started, the male and female introduce themselves and the courtship behavior of the male will induce ovulation in the female. Females are also more receptive to mates if they are introduced soon after a molt.. Between March and April, the couple will have begun to actively copulate. Snakes will copulate several times during this period.

    In captivity it is possible for a female to mate with several males., although not recommended, since the males usually become very aggressive and fight each other. In some cases, high levels of aggressiveness have been observed among males, which has caused a dangerous situation for the female.

    In the Amazon tree boa, ovulation occurs in the female several weeks after copulation. During the gestation period, females seek out areas with direct sunlight or other warm areas to bask in the sun. The Amazon tree boa gives birth to live young. The gestation period is 6 to 8 months. Newborns shed their skin between 8 and 14 days after birth. After a few 3 years, the Amazon tree boa reaches sexual maturity.

    Once the pups are born, are immediately independent of their mother. The males of the Amazon tree boa they do not contribute to the care of their young.

    Food

    It has been reported that the Amazon tree boa feeds on birds (including Chloroceryle inda, Coereba, Elaenia), bats (probably Phyllostomus bicolor, Myotis), frogs (Elachistocleis), rodents (Akodon, Mus, Rattus), lizards (Anolis, Basiliscus, Iguana) and marsupials (Marmosa). These observations suggest that the Amazon tree boa has a wide diet of mainly vertebrate prey.

    The Amazon tree boa hunts at night using its infrared sensitivity or during the day using vision. They are typically ambush hunters, settling on a branch with the front of its body hanging in an S-shaped curve of the branch. They can attack prey that are at a surprising distance from them. Prey are often pushed off the tree branch when struck, in which case the snake will pick up the body by coiling on it.

    Threats to the species

    State of conservation โ“˜


    minor concern Minor Concern โ“˜ (UICN)โ“˜

    Threats to the population
    The Amazon tree boa not currently considered threatened, However, continued collection for the pet trade could affect their numbers in the future.

    population number
    According to the IUCN, the Amazon tree boa it is locally common and is widespread throughout its range, but no global population estimate is available. In the news, this species is listed as Least Concern (LC) on the IUCN Red List and their number is stable.

    ecological niche
    The Amazon tree boa plays an important role in its ecosystem, as it helps to control the populations of vertebrates on which it feeds.

    The "Amazon tree boa" in captivity

    The Amazon tree boa it is a popular pet with snake fanciers and is a fairly common export in the pet trade. In 2002 some were exported 3.000 of these live snakes from Guiana and 1.902 from Suriname in the same year (CITES 2002).

    The Corallus cookii was once an object of trade. But, this type of tree boa is only native to one island (San Vicente), that has stopped exporting herpetofauna for commercial purposes.

    The terrarium

    terrarium for "Amazon tree boa"

    ๐Ÿ Good Amazonian Tree (Corallus hortulanus) - The multicolored boa ๐Ÿ

    In general, these snakes do well in captivity and are easy to care for in a terrarium. Adult animals need a terrarium of at least 60 x 45 x 60 cm per animal. Large specimens should be housed in a more spacious enclosure.

    Decor

    Provide adequate shelter, especially in the upper part of the terrarium. Use lots of horizontal branches and hang plants between them where animals can hide. You can also use hollow cork logs for them to climb and hide. Animals will almost never spend time on the ground, but a good soil captures residues and facilitates the maintenance of higher humidity. Think, for example, in a coco peat soil mixed with bark and leaves and/or moss.

    Temperature and humidity

    Young animals need high humidity throughout the year, while adults naturally have a drier period from August to October. High humidity is especially necessary for younger animals to ensure they shed properly. If this species is kept too dry, it usually sheds its skin in parts and it is not uncommon for remains of the old molt to remain attached to the tail. If these debris go unnoticed the circulation at the tip of the tail can be cut off and it could die and fall off..

    The average temperature should be 25C on the cool side and 27C / 29C on the warmer side. Of course, they are not basking animals and to thermoregulate they move between warmer and cooler sections in the forest or garden. in the terrarium, this usually means that the temperatures in the highest section of the terrarium are higher than those in the lower parts. So, make sure there are plenty of places to climb and hide in all areas and sections of the terrarium. Heating can be done with a solar point (ceramic) or a thermal panel against the roof of the terrarium. Make sure that you Amazon tree boa cannot come into contact with the lamp or can curl around it, as this can cause a burn.

    Yes, you Amazon tree boa it's a lot on the ground, this may be due to health problems, to excessive temperatures in the upper part or to the lack of hiding places in the upper layers of the terrarium. Note that also pregnant females usually lie on the ground before giving birth..

    Illumination

    The Amazon tree boa lends itself well to a bioactive setup. In this case, it is best to use an LED or fluorescent tube to illuminate the enclosure. illuminate from 11 to 13 hours a day.

    Diet

    The Amazon tree boa it is very easy to feed, if it moves and is hot it will be prey. Young animals can be fed pinkies which are replaced by fuzzys as they grow. When they reach 12 months of age usually feed on prey such as the jumping mouse. Adult animals feed well on a diet of adult mice and chicks.. Make sure the dam is not too big, since they are very thin snakes. Hatchlings and juveniles can be fed once a week, While the (sub)adults can feed on one prey every 14 days.

    Buy one "Amazon tree boa"

    The price of a "Amazon tree boa" at the exotic animal market, ranges between 300 – 600 EUR.

    Videos "Amazon tree boa"

    Corallus hortulanus (Amazon tree boa)

    Amazon Tree Boa (Corallus hortulanus)

    Alternative names:

    1. Amazon tree boa, Macabrel, Cook’s tree boa, common tree boa, Garden tree boa (English).
    2. Boa dโ€™Amazonie, Boa de cook (French).
    3. Hundskopfboa, Gartenboa (German).
    4. Suaรงubรณia, cobra-de-veado (Portuguese).
    5. "Boa arborรญcola amazรณnica", Cascabel dormillon, Boa arborรญcola (espaรฑol).

    โ–ท The world of Pets: Dogs, cats, birds, reptiles, amphibians

    Indian python
    - Python molurus

    The Indian python it is the dream snake for many terrarium keepers. His attractive appearance, its imposing size and its temperament, generally quiet, contribute significantly to this popularity.
    Indian python
    Indian python (Python molurus molurus) at the San Diego Zoo, EE.UU. – Tigerpython, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Content

    Origin / Distribution

    The Indian python (Python molurus) stretches across the lower half of the Asian continent. The western limit of the species is believed to be the Indus Valley. It can extend to the north, in Quingchuan county of Sichuan province (China), and to the south, in Borneo.

    The Indian python appears to be absent from the Malay Peninsula. It has not yet been determined whether the populations scattered across several of the smaller islands are native or feral populations. (escaped pets).

    There are two recognized subspecies of Python molurus that are separated by their geographical distribution area and by certain physical characteristics:

  • Python molurus bivittatus, (burmese python) Kuhl, 1820. The larger of the two. thought to range from Myanmar east through South Asia to China and Indonesia. It is not present on the island of Sumatra. Introduced specimens have been seen in the Florida Everglades.
  • Python molurus molurus (Linnaeus, 1758). She is native to India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka y Nepal.

  • Characteristics / Appearance

    The Indian python splits into two recognized subspecies, that can be distinguished by their physical characteristics. The burmese pythons, P. molurus bivitatus, They can reach a length of about 7,6 m (25 feet), and can weigh up to 137 kg (300 pounds). The Indian python, P. molurus molurus, smaller, reaching a maximum of 6,4 m (21 feet) of length and a weight of 91 kg (200 pounds). The skins of both subspecies are marked with a mosaic-like rectangular pattern that runs the entire length of the animal.. P. molurus bivitatus has a darker color, with shades of brown and dark cream colored rectangles stretching out on a black background. This subspecies is also characterized by an arrow-shaped mark present on the top of the head., which starts the pattern. P. molurus molurus has similar markings with light brown and tan rectangles set against a typically cream background. P. molurus molurus he only has a partial arrow-shaped mark on the top of his head. Each scale of P. molurus molurus is one color.

    The Indian python it is dimorphic, being the females of both subspecies longer and heavier than the males. Males have cloacal spurs., or vestigial limbs, larger than females. The cloacal spurs are two projections, one on each side of the anal opening, which are believed to be extensions of the hind limbs.

    Habitat

    The Indian python found in a variety of habitats including tropical forests, river valleys, forests, scrub, grassy swamps and semi rocky foothills. They are usually found in habitats with areas that can provide sufficient cover. This species is never found very far from water sources and seems to prefer very humid terrain..

    Behavior

    Indian python
    Indian python, Python molurus molurus, Family: Boidae, Location: Germany, Stuttgart, Zoo Garden – Holger Krisp, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    The Indian python is a solitary species. Mating is the only time these snakes are commonly found in pairs.. The Indian python usually moves only when food is scarce or when threatened. They can stalk their prey, first locating them by their scent or sensing the body heat of the prey with their thermal pits, and then following the trail. These snakes are mainly found on the ground, but sometimes they climb trees. The Indian python also often found in or near water. They are expert swimmers and can remain submerged without breathing for up to thirty minutes at a time.. During the colder months, starting in October and ending in February, the Indian python remains hidden and usually enters a brief period of hibernation until the temperature rises again.

    Developing

    the breeding of Indian python it is precocial when it is born. They become independent shortly after hatching.. They reach sexual maturity between 2 and 3 years of age, as long as they have the right body weight.

    Reproduction

    The Indian python reaches sexual maturity between 2-3 years of age, as long as you have the right body weight. At that time the courtship behavior can begin. During courtship, the male surrounds the female with his body and runs his tongue repeatedly over her head and body. Once they line their sewers, the male uses his vestigial legs to massage the female and stimulate her. Next, the female raises her tail for the male to insert a hemipenis (has two) in the female's cloaca. This process lasts between 5 and 30 minutes. About 3-4 months later, the female lays up 100 eggs, each weighing up to 207 g.. Right now, the female often coils around the eggs to prepare for the incubation period. Incubation lasts between 2 and 3 months.

    during incubation, the female of Indian python uses muscle contractions or "chills" to raise your body temperature slightly above the temperature of the surrounding air. It is very rare for the mother to abandon the eggs during incubation.. Once the eggs hatch, pups quickly become independent.

    Food

    The Indian python is carnivorous. Their diet consists mainly of live prey. Their staple foods are rodents and other mammals.. A small part of their diet consists of birds, amphibians and reptiles. when looking for food, the Indian python stalk its prey, ambush or carrion. These snakes have very poor eyesight. To make up for this, the species has a highly developed sense of smell, and heat pits within each scale along the upper lip, that feel the heat of the nearby prey. The Indian python kills its prey by biting and constricting it until it suffocates. Then they swallow the prey whole. To accomplish the feat of swallowing prey, it dislocates its jaw and stretches its highly elastic skin around the prey.. This allows these snakes to swallow food much larger than their own heads.. In cases of scavenging there is no constriction of the prey

    Life expectancy

    Half life in captivity 15,8 years

    Threats to the species

    State of conservation โ“˜


    minor concern Minor Concern โ“˜ (UICN)โ“˜

    The Indian python (Python molurus) It is listed by the IUCN as low risk., near-threatened. Since the 14 in June of 1976, P. molurus is listed by the United States ESA as endangered throughout its range. The subspecies P. molurus molurus is listed as endangered in Appendix I of CITES. Other subspecies of P. molurus are included in Appendix II, Like all other species of Pythonidae.

    There is a large number of exports for the pet trade. The skin of the Indian python is highly valued in the fashion industry due to its exotic appearance. In its native range it is also hunted as a food source.

    The "Indian python" in captivity

    albino indian python
    Indian python bee – Xevi VFlickr

    The Indian python it is the dream snake for many terrarium keepers. His attractive appearance, its imposing size and its temperament, generally quiet, contribute significantly to this popularity.

    This species is listed in Appendix A of the European Species Protection Ordinance and you can't have it without permission. Many countries have also created legal breeding requirements so that the Indian python, as potentially dangerous wild animals, is cared for properly and competently and do not pose a danger to the public.

    The terrarium

    The most important thing is that the host enclosure contains the snake safely. After all, post requirements are less important once the snake has disappeared into that hole in the wall behind the washing machine because you forgot to secure it properly.

    The size of the terrarium should be large enough to allow the snake a reasonable amount of movement., but small enough to allow precise temperature and humidity control. The Indian python it is a terrestrial snake that spends most of its time on the ground, so the floor space of your enclosure will be more important to the animal than the height of the cage.

    A brood of Indian python You will need the space equivalent of a reptile terrarium of 40 litres. Larger individuals will need more space, of course. an animal of 90 kg will need a floor space of at least 250 cm x 120 cm.. I recommend that the enclosure have a floor space equivalent to four to six times the area of โ€‹โ€‹the snake itself when in a flat coil. The cage should also have a door that allows easy access and can be closed safely.. A glass or plexiglass window is also important to be able to see. Some ventilation is desirable., although not as much as you might initially think. Heat and moisture are easily lost through the vents, especially those in the upper part of the enclosure. Small vents located on the sides of the cage will allow for proper air exchange.

    Timber, plastic and glass are acceptable materials for terrarium construction. Enclosures constructed of ABS plastic can be used, that have a smooth, nonporous finish that allows for easy cleaning and sterilization. Snake habitat products can make this difficult, so sometimes simplicity is the best option. All corners and edges must be rounded, so there are no hard-to-clean areas. Terrariums are light, have large tempered glass viewing areas and, the best of all, someone has already done. Regular and spot cleaning with proper reptile cleaning supplies is required.

    Substrate

    There are several decent substrates for snakes available. It is virtually impossible to provide a naturalistic vivarium for a large ball python., unless the strongest materials are used. Substrates are generally selected for utility rather than aesthetics. Newspaper is absorbent, fairly sterile and easy to get. Various woods are also acceptable, chips and crushed substrate products, although they tend to get dirty in humid environments.

    Heating and lighting

    The Indian python prefer temperatures of about 26 Celsius degrees. Slightly cooler temperatures are allowed at night. In fact, cooler night temperatures are essential for the breeding of the Indian python, in case you want to undertake this task.

    Since the Indian python requires temperatures above what we consider comfortable in our homes, it is necessary to increase the temperature of the enclosure with a supplementary heat source. This heat can be provided in various ways. It is preferable to use a heating pad, like the Zilla heating pad, or heat tape under the enclosure. Heating pads or under-enclosure heaters are available at many pet stores that carry supplies for reptiles.. Provide safe and even heating for the smallest rooms. Thermal tape is also available and serves the same purpose, although it allows more flexibility to heat larger areas more economically. There are also various types of heat lamps for snakes., that are effective. There are many types of reptile heat lamps and accessories to choose from..

    But, it is important to give the snake some option to determine its own temperature. In the wild, the animal could thermoregulate by moving freely between warmer and cooler zones. These options are limited in captivity, but by proper heater placement, it is possible to give the snake some control over its own temperature. Must have a hot side and a cold side. The hot side is specific to each species. Maximum thermal gradient can be obtained by placing the heater at one end of the enclosure rather than in the center. The snake will get hotter closer to the heater and will get cooler as the distance from the heater increases. This will give the snake a greater range of options to regulate its own temperature..

    It should be noted that the heater has two purposes. Provides a warm zone for the snake to increase its body temperature, but it also provides heat that increases the ambient temperature of the enclosure. Depending on the type, the size and construction of the terrarium, the heat loss from the cage and the temperature of the air outside the cage, the heater may need to be much hotter than the average temperature of the enclosure itself. This is cause for alarm for many newbies. It is perfectly acceptable to have a temperature of 38 degrees Celsius or more directly above (or below) from the heat source if this is necessary to maintain the desired room temperature. But, always make sure the snake can retreat to a cooler area when it sees fit.

    The room temperature can be regulated in several ways. In the first and most primitive, temperature can be controlled by initially selecting a heater with a wattage that provides the acceptable amount of heat. If the environmental conditions outside the enclosure are constant and the power of the heater is the same, the temperature inside the cage should also be. It is difficult to select a heater with exactly the necessary heat output, and the constant conditions outside the terrarium are not always as constant as they could be. A rheostat or dimmer switch can adjust the heat output of a heater by adjusting the power input, the other problem can be overcome by using a controller with a feedback system.

    Since a thermostat monitors the temperature of the enclosure and activates the heater to add heat when appropriate, is by far the best method for controlling cage temperature. There are two types of thermostats on the market for use in animal related applications. Conventional on/off type works like your home thermostat; senses when the temperature has dropped below a certain level and directs the heater to add heat until the set temperature is reached, such as the Zilla Terrarium Reptile Habitat and Heat Controller. A proportional thermostat is much like a rheostat with a feedback system.. Thermostat continuously monitors temperature and makes slight adjustments to heater electrical current. in this guy, the heat is always on, but only to the level necessary to maintain the set temperature. Proportional thermostats eliminate fluctuations caused by cycling on and off of conventional type thermostats and provide continuous heat from the heat source. The Indian python wild lives in areas of high humidity, and captive animals require the same. Adding heat to the enclosure can dry it out and measures must be taken to retain moisture.. A well built terrarium, with a container for water and a minimum of ventilation grilles, should keep the relative humidity above the 60 per cent, approximately. Wooden terrariums must be painted and sealed.

    Mesh-top terrariums are difficult to regulate. Heat rises and escapes through the top, which requires additional heat to maintain the proper temperature, which dries out the enclosure even more. Terrariums should have lids that limit heat and moisture loss.

    Feeding of the Indian python

    feed the Indian python it's quite simple. I feed a proper size meal whenever the snake is hungry. The breeding of the Indian python can an adult mouse eat during its first feeding, which is surprising to many novice snake keepers. Several sensory systems are at work in a python when it feeds. First of all, the food should smell like something to eat. In second place, the food must move in the form of a potential meal. And third, the food must be warmer than its surroundings. The Indian python eats only warm-blooded prey and has sensory organs (pits) to detect the slight amount of heat generated by the body from a potential food. A combination of these factors appears to be important in eliciting a feeding response in the newborn Python.. Pink mice don't normally move in a way that would interest a baby python., and although I think they must smell like mice, do not generate and retain body heat very well.

    Once a baby python has had its first meals, it may learn behaviors that allow it to recognize and eat pre-killed food items, or even chicken parts or processed snake food. It is sometimes recommended to feed snakes only dead food to avoid potential injuries that could be inflicted by the struggling prey item.. It's important to remember, However, that nearly every meal taken by a python in the history of the species has been live. Nature has prepared them well to deal with the possible problems associated with. But, frozen and pre-cut food makes things easier for us, and perhaps that should be the most important consideration.

    As the snake grows, will need more food, of course. During the first meals, a mouse offered once or twice a week will suffice. But, soon the snake will need more than one mouse at each meal. When the snake regularly eats several mice per meal, try to offer him a little rat. When a Indian python measure some 1 Metro, should be able to take a medium rat; with 1,5 m, a large rat would be appropriate. There is a young rabbit that is equivalent in mass to a very large rat; substitute one of these as the snake grows, and increase the size of the rabbits as the snake increases in size. Chickens are also a good source of food; the Indian python newborn can eat a day old chick, and to the 3 meters can eat an adult chicken.

    Water for the Indian python

    The Indian python should always have access to fresh water. A heavy ceramic bowl, It works well. It is not necessary for the snakes to be able to submerge in the water dish.

    Management and temperament Indian python

    The Indian python, due to its docile nature and undemanding requirements, it is one of the most suitable snakes as a captive animal.

    Snakes only have limited reasoning ability. Trust me, this statement is quite generous. Keepers can condition a snake to think (I am generous again) that every time the door of her cage is opened she will be fed. If the snake is infrequently handled and most of its interaction with its handler occurs during feeding time, This conditioning is reinforced. with the big snakes, especially, it is important that the snake learns to differentiate the time to eat from other times, and you from his dinner. The thought processes that have brought you to your current situation will matter little when the mouth of your snake clings to your forearm.. What this means is that it is a very good idea to be aware of your snake's location and orientation when feeding or when servicing its cage.. If a snake is hungry when I open the cage, I tap her on the nose with a rolled up newspaper. This is usually enough to let you know it's not time to eat.. It is also best not to house more than one snake per cage., and it is essential not to feed more than one snake in a cage at the same time.

    Buy one "Indian python"

    The Indian python is available in a variety of colors and patterns, with new traits and combinations of traits that are available more frequently. They are usually available from captive breeders or online reptile stores.. It is important to check local laws and regulations regarding the species.

    The price of a baby of this species ranges from 100 and 200 EUR.

    Videos "Indian python"

    Indian Rock Python or Python molurus, with porcupine quill stuck in his body

    Piton Burmes - Python Molurus - GIGANTE

    Alternative names:

    1. Indian python, Black-tailed python, Indian rock python, Asian rock python. (English).
    2. Python indien (French).
    3. Heller Tigerpython (German).
    4. Pรญton-indiana (Portuguese).
    5. "Pitรณn de la India" (espaรฑol).

    โ–ท The world of Pets: Dogs, cats, birds, reptiles, amphibians

    Indonesian blue-tongued skink
    - Tiliqua gigas

    Indonesian blue-tongued skink

    awesome lizards. This species is one of the best to keep as it is one of the calmest and most manageable. very easy animals, as they feed on everything, insects, mice, fruit, canned meat, etc. Dry terrarium, not desert.

    Its price ranges from 180 and 250 EUR.

    โ–ท The world of Pets: Dogs, cats, birds, reptiles, amphibians

    Green striped tree dragon
    - Diploderma splendidum

    The Green striped tree dragon is shy in nature and tends to panic. This can be counteracted with a good structure in the terrarium..
    Green striped tree dragon
    Green striped tree dragon

    Content

    Distribution and habitat

    Of all species of Japalura, this is the one with the largest distribution area in southwest China.
    It extends north from Henan province, passing through gansu, Sichuan, Yunnan, Goizhou and Hubei, to the east of Hunan province.

    The Green striped tree dragon lives up to an altitude of 3000 m. They are called creek buddies because they are constantly near small mountain streams or waterfalls.
    The Green striped tree dragon it is a diurnal species, predominantly arboreal, herbaceous cover. The habitat can be classified as subtropical mountain forests.

    Description

    The basic color of the body is brown, on the head and legs shows a yellow and green coloration. Depending on how they feel, of the course of the day, stress and courtship behavior, color range varies from bright greens to browns, going through muted dark browns to an almost black coloration.

    The most striking feature of Green striped tree dragon are the dorsolateral green stripes.
    In the male, stripes look straight with sharp edges and marginal lines. Dorsally (between the stripes) appears dark brown with few colored spots, respectively fine. Lines.
    Female has irregularly shaped dorsolateral stripes, notched or jagged. Seen from above, there are dorsal connections at regular intervals across the back. In the resulting interspaces, darker, highlights a chain of rhombuses, which remains visible up to the base of the tail.

    The toes are delicate and have claws. This makes them perfectly adapted to rocky terrain and trees..

    Measurements

    Males reach a total length of 35 cm., the females 30 cm..

    Sex determination

    The species has a sexual dichromatism with the respective dorsolateral stripe.

    The body of the male appears long and thin. The legs are clearly stronger.

    Females have a round body due to egg laying. For this reason, the legs don't seem that strong.

    Behavior

    The species is shy in nature and tends to panic. This can be counteracted with a good structure in the terrarium..

    With their own offspring this tendency to panic jumps improves, but there is no guarantee.

    The terrarium must be densely planted with vegetation and have sufficient depth, this gives to Green striped tree dragon a sense of security. No effort to feed these animals, rather you have to be content with watching them hunt.

    Green striped tree dragon
    Green striped tree dragon – Alfeus Liman, Attribution, via Wikimedia Commons

    It is evident that the Green striped tree dragon depends on wet leaves and running water. If you offer this, they will show a lot of activity.

    At night, animals are not completely inactive, but they are alert to capture some flying insect.

    It is very important that the species splendid japalure I can only stay as a couple. Females are territorial, so you can only have a female with a male.

    Hibernation

    The species is native to the high mountains of the Himalayas, where there is a climatic winter. In the terrarium you also have to make an effort to achieve it. If he terrarium placed in a cold room from the start, hibernation in the terrarium is also possible. To preserve plants, today LED lighting is available in the daylight spectrum.

    Hibernation should last 4 weeks.

    Courtship, mating and breeding

    The species displays a rich spectrum of behavior.

    Males turn completely black for courtship, only the green dosolateral stripes are visible and white patches appear on the throat. The male nods constantly, signaling their willingness to mate.

    Willingness to mate.

    The female can also change a little color, but this is rather behavioral, until you show your anger. But, Mating only occurs when the female corresponds to the courtship of the male by briefly opening her throat. The male would never approach the female beforehand.

    Mating is brief and is terminated by the female. She holds the male against the back wall during this time and then leaves the secure grip.

    The female can bury exactly 4 nides at intervals of 4 weeks per season – from winter slumber to monsoon rainy season. Then it takes a break of a few weeks to return to producing 4 nides at intervals of 4 weeks in fall to hibernation. After about 90 days, the young hatch.

    Diet and supplements

    The Green striped tree dragon it is insectivorous, which means that these lizards feed exclusively on insects.

    These lizards will be offered everything they can bear in terms of insects. They prefer flying insects like moths, flies and wasps. It should be offered as often as possible, since it is an excellent occupation. Meadowsweet plankton should be preferred, as well as various species of crickets, grasshoppers and cockroaches, even waxworms and black beetle larvae.

    Supplementation

    Insects must be well fed and, of course, still pollinated with a multivitamin and mineral preparation. Herpetal or Korvimin ZVT range with a calcium blend is recommended.

    Terrarium

    Green striped tree dragon
    Green striped tree dragon – naturalista.mx

    For a pair of this species a terrarium with the dimensions 100 x 60 x 100 (length x widht x hight).

    Equipment

    The habitat is subtropical mountain forests with a flowing mountain stream and this should be recreated in a terrarium. One focuses on the essential, what are plants, soil and water.

    The back walls are designed so that many plants can thrive there.

    The substrate is filled high enough and moist. Plants and many branches offer the freedom of movement of a tree. A stream of water simulates the trickle of streams from a slope, which already suggests that no water is offered at the bottom of the substrate. The substrate is only visited by females to lay eggs or by insects that have strayed into it..

    Sunbathing areas are subordinate, since the Green striped tree dragon prefers cooler and shady places. Lighting is mainly for plants.

    Plants

    Plants not only regulate the climate in the terrarium, they also serve as protection, residence and welfare for animals.

    Planting with ficus species, like the "oakleaf ficus" Ficus quericifolia y Ficus scandens, is the most sensible option. It also, a variety of other plants can be chosen, all of which must tolerate high humidity and be small-leaved. These may include, the Chirita Tamiana, the Pellionia deveauna, the Hemigraphis repanda , and Parthenocissus inserta they are suitable, but it is also enough to choose the ivy Epipremnum pinnatum.

    Substrate

    The choice of substrate is important because it must retain a lot of moisture, must not become moldy and must have good egg-laying properties. An unfertilized soil is recommended, preferably from deciduous forests.

    The substrate must have 15 cm in height so that the female has optimal conditions for laying eggs. If the female feels insecure, if the substrate is too poor or not moist enough, this can lead to an egg-laying drought.

    Illumination

    Lighting in a forest terrarium plays a subordinate role for animals, not for plants. The Japalura splendida they are not usually sun worshipers, rather they avoid a light level. It is important to avoid excessive heat by using good lighting.

    Fluorescent tubes and, in the news, LEDs have proven themselves.

    Example:

    For a terrarium of 100 x 60 x 100 cm., 6 tubos BioVital -full spectrum, T5, with 39 High output watts have proven themselves. More and more I'm leaning towards LED lighting plus a Solar Raptor from 35 watts.

    Temperatures

    The basic temperature in the terrarium should be 27ยฐC, but it is also necessary to foresee cooler areas. It can also be 35ยฐC at certain points by means of a focus, but this should not raise the base values.

    For the Green striped tree dragon it is much more important to achieve a night coolness of up to 12ยฐC.

    Humidity

    Relative humidity should be 50-60% during the day and increase to about 90% At night.

    the cold night, the plants, the moist substrate and the walls, plus a waterfall, will inevitably increase humidity at night.

    For sale "Green striped tree dragon"

    The price of a Green striped tree dragon ranges between 35 โ€“ 45 EUR.

    Sources

    HALLERMANN, Jakob (2005): Mit Hรถrnern, Kรคmmen und Gleithรคuten โ€“ die bizarren Baumagamen. Reptilia 10 (1), NTV Verlag, Mรผnster; 18-25 S.
    Kร„STLE, Werner & H. Hermann SCHLEICH (2000): Zitat in: JACOB HALLERMANN (2005) Mit Hรถrnern, Kรคmmen und Gleithรคuten โ€“ die bizarren Baumagamen. Reptilia10(1) NTV Verlag, Mรผnster, 18-25 S.
    Laue, E. 2009. Erfahrungen mit Krankheiten und Verlusten bei der langjรคhrigen Pflege und Nachzucht cer Chinesischen Bergagame Japalura splendida, veranschaulicht durch drei Fallbeispiele. Iguana-Rundschreiben 22 (1): 21-30
    LAUE, Esther (2005): Zur Haltung und Vermehrung der Chinesischen Bergagame Japalura splendida BARBOUR & DUNN 1919. Elaphe 13 (1): 20-30
    LAUE, Esther (2007): Die Chinesische Bergagame Japalura splendida Vivaria-Verlag 95 pp.
    MANTHEY, Ulrich & Norbert SCHUSTER (1999): Agamen. NTV Verlag, Mรผnster
    SCHRADIN, Heiko (2004): Haltung und Nachzucht der Chinesischen Bergagame (Japalura splendida) โ€“Reptilia 9(5), NTV Verlag, Mรผnster, 56-66 S.