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Common chuckwalla
- Sauromalus ater

The Common chuckwalla found in deserts, where the air is warm and dry (of 9 to 45 degrees Celsius).
Common chuckwalla
Common chuckwalla (Sauromalus ater) – TimVickers, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Content

Origin / Distribution

The Common chuckwalla (Sauromalus ater) It inhabits the deserts of the western United States and Mexico and in 30 known islands of the Gulf of Mexico. In particular, the Mojave and Sonoran deserts are known to have thriving populations of chuckwallas. They can be found as far west as southeastern California and Nevada, and are abundant in Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, Utah and parts of Colorado.

Characteristics / Appearance

The Common chuckwalla it is a stocky lizard with loose folds of skin near the neck, shoulders and stomach. The skin is covered with hard scales, and the largest are between the nose and the eyes. They have five fingers on each end and the tail is rounded at the tip.. Head color can range from dark brown and gray to dark yellow. Color variation depends on geographic location, the temperature, environment and mood. The tail is thicker near the body and tapers towards the tip.. Males are slightly larger than females and, in some cases, have different scale patterns and head shapes. Females may have a slightly narrower snout and head.. There is also variation in color, juveniles and females have lighter markings than males. The average weight is 245 g. (range of 24 to 315 g.), although males are usually heavier than females. The average length of the head is 35,5 mm and its greatest width is 33,2 mm. The mean length of the snout is 162 mm (range of 80 to 197 mm) and the tail length is 182 mm. Almost half of the length corresponds to the tail.

Habitat

The Common chuckwalla found in deserts, where the air is warm and dry (of 9 to 45 degrees Celsius). They are found in deserts with rocks and crevices to hide in., as areas of ancient lava flows, rocky slopes and outcrops. They use burrows and underground cracks to hibernate in winter.. They inhabit insular and coastal environments. These lizards require a moderate amount of vegetation and foliage in the habitat in order to sustain themselves.. The Common chuckwalla can be found between sea level and 1400 m above sea level.

Behavior

Common chuckwalla
Chuckwalla (Sauromalus ater), San Bernardino County, AU – Connor Long, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The Common chuckwalla it is mainly solitary and diurnal. They leave rock shelters during the day to eat foliage, but they usually stay close to their shelters. They are active from mid-March to mid-August, but they can aestivate in the summer months when food is scarce. From November to March they can go through brumation (similar to hibernation, but observed in ectotherms). They are active for a 8 hours a day, usually between 06:30 and 19:00. The activity of the Common chuckwalla is greater among 9:15 and 11:30. To avoid overheating, they move in and out of the shade and adopt different orientations towards the sun. Most of their time is spent basking on rocks when they are not foraging for food.. They take refuge in cracks and shallow holes during the hottest part of the day and use these cracks to avoid predators.. Males are territorial and fight over territory and females. The females are not hostile to each other, but the hierarchies of males and females are based on the size.

Developing

After a gestation period of one month, females lay eggs in an underground nest. Once the Common chuckwalla come out of the egg, begin to grow at a rate of about 17 mm per year. The Common chuckwalla abandons its young after hatching and the young are independent at that time. They reach sexual maturity around 2 or 3 years. Reaching adult size takes a few 25 years, after which they continue to grow but at a significantly slower rate, of about 5,5 mm per year. Growth rate is related to food abundance. The Common chuckwalla grows more in spring and summer, when the temperature is high and food is plentiful. La muda, or detachment of the epidermis, also occurs in spring, when the growth rate is high.

Reproduction

the courtship of the Common chuckwalla is that males attract females by their size or persistence. Males usually have several females living in their territory and mate with them.. The males of the Common chuckwalla use head movement, the licks, the circles, the pushes, jaw rubs and other methods to persuade females to mate. Females allow copulation if they determine the male is desired., males can prevail if they are big and forceful. During copulation, males use their mandibles to grasp females by the loose skin on the nape of the neck. Mating usually takes place in early spring, after hibernation. Both sexes have multiple partners year after year. Males compete for females by biting and head-butting..

The Common chuckwalla breeds between April and August, when food is more abundant. When females are receptive, your ovaries enlarge. Males produce sperm each year., while females produce eggs every two years, average. Males reach sexual maturity when they reach 125 mm length at snout, that is to say, to the 2 years of age. Females reach sexual maturity at the same length, but they may take 2 to 3 years to reach it. The average clutch size per breeding season varies from 5 to 16 eggs and the annual reproductive frequency of each female varies greatly from year to year depending on food availability and rainfall. Some females produce two separate clutches., others produce none. The females incubate the eggs until they hatch.. The incubation period lasts about 35 days (range of 33 to 50 days). The hatching mass range of eggs is 6,0 to 9,6 g.. Larger females produce clutches more often than smaller females.. But, smaller females may breed in consecutive years.

Females prepare an underground nest in an area with dry soil that is unlikely to be disturbed.. The females protect their eggs from predators and other threats while they incubate them.. But, after hatching, females no longer care for their young. Males do not provide parental care.

Food

The Common chuckwalla It is herbivorous and feeds on perennial and annual plants.. Their diet is usually high in fiber and low in fat and protein. Annual plants make up the 60% your diet in the summer months, while the perennials suppose the 40%. When annual plants die in winter, perennials become their main food source. They have been observed feeding on the leaves and fruit of creosote bushes in the summer months. (Pasture tridentate), as well as some insects that reside in the vegetation they eat. The (Oenothera clavaeformis) and the desert ambrosia (Franseria dumosa) are the main plants in the diet of the Common chuckwalla. In captivity they feed on various vegetables, fruits and flowers. They obtain water from the plants they eat and produce it metabolically.

Life expectancy

The Common chuckwalla usually live 10 years or more, if the right conditions are met, limited predation and adequate food availability. The half-life in nature is estimated to be about 15 years. Although there is considerable variability from year to year, Survival in the first year is estimated to be 38%. The mortality of the eggs is the one that most affects the survival of animals less than one year old. Those who survive beyond one year experience a median survival of 75% annual. The Common chuckwalla oldest known in nature had 30 years. The Common chuckwalla oldest in captivity lived to be 65 years.

Threats to the species

State of conservation ⓘ


minor concern Minor Concern ⓘ (UICN)ⓘ

The populations of Common chuckwalla are protected by national parks and, course, for its remote habitat (rugged terrain and harsh climate). Trends toward development in desert areas of the United States and parts of Mexico are affecting the habitat of the Common chuckwalla; However, the status of the population as a whole has been reported as large and stable.

The commercial sales of Common chuckwalla have not shown any major impact on the species as a whole, but some subspecies are locally threatened by overharvesting and habitat degradation. The South Mountain Subpopulation, near phoenix (Arizona), is in the spotlight because it has a unique color pattern that is desirable for the pet trade. The Colorado River Dam has greatly reduced the populations of Common chuckwalla in the Glen Canyon area, in Utah, and goat herding activities, sheep and donkeys have shown a small negative impact. In general, the IUCN classifies the Common chuckwalla like "Least concern» due to the wide distribution of the population and the absence of immediate threats. Although the total size of the population is not known, it is estimated that the total size of the adult population could be 100.000 or more.

The "Common chuckwalla" in captivity

Common chuckwalla
Sauromalus ater (chuckwalla) and Columbia Pass, Spring Mountains, on from nevada – Stan Shebs, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The terrarium

The necessary size of the terrarium for a "Common chuckwalla" is of 120 cm long x 100 cm wide x 60 cm high or 120 cm long x 60 cm wide x 100 centimeters tall, respectively. The terrarium consists of a combination of wood and glass. Inside the terrarium there may be a self-made rear wall with many protrusions and indentations. The Common chuckwalla use almost exclusively the back wall and rarely stay on the ground. There may be a large ventilation area at the front under sliding glass over the entire length of the terrarium. in addition, about half of the lid consists of a ventilation zone to ensure the necessary ventilation.

Furniture

The terrarium substrate consists of a mixture of Lucky Reptile Desert Bedding and shell sand. To some Common chuckwalla they like to eat the small pieces of crushed rock from the shell. There can also be multiple roots, cork tubes, stones and branches in the terrarium. Live plants are eaten immediately, so you should no longer use real plants for decoration. Stones and heavy objects must be firmly anchored, since the animals like to undermine everything and then there is danger of collapse.

Lighting and temperature

Light is a crucial factor in keeping and rearing these lizards.. The terrarium can be illuminated with two T9 fluorescent tubes of 38W each.. Two Solar Raptors 70W serve as heat and UV source. It also, every hour a SolarGlo 150W from Exoterra.
The temperature in the terrarium ranges between 26°C and 30°C. Temperatures of up to 42°C are reached under the radiators. The humidity is around 40% during the day and go up to the 60% At night.

Food

The Common chuckwalla Adult feeds almost exclusively on plants.. Juveniles occasionally hunt grasshoppers, crickets and worms. It is important to feed the animals with a varied diet so that there is no imbalance in the mineral balance. Vegetable food is given daily. During the week, they can have a fast day. What must never be forgotten is to regularly supplement the diet with a vitamin preparation.

You can give them grated carrot, all kinds of lettuce, dandelion and its flowers, Cucumber, cooked rice, zucchini, Peppers, strawberries, raspberries, grated apple and rarely banana. Caution. Please, don't feed them cabbage, as this causes life-threatening flatulence. as with all animals, you have to try what and how much they like to eat. In principle, you can't overfeed them with vegetables, so you always have to have something available.

A great gift is assorted sprouts that you can grow yourself on the windowsill. As such, I spread the lentils, wheat and millet in a container with moist soil and water them daily. after only three days, you can see the first spikes growing out of the ground. After a week and a half or two, the chuckwallas get the bowl with the fresh green.

There is also always a bowl with various grains, like red and brown lentils, special dry food for herbivores, pumpkin seeds and sunflower seeds.
Of course, a bowl of water should not be missing either.

Hibernation

Hibernation is an important part of the life of the Common chuckwalla all the years.

At the end of October / beginning of November, animals become increasingly lethargic and reduce their food intake.

Light duration is reduced from 12-14 to 5 hours a day for weeks while minimizing feeding.

During this time, just offer more water.

for the final hibernation, the animals are moved to a terrarium, similar to turtles.

The optimum temperature is between 12 – 10 degrees.

They wake up slowly in mid to early March.

The hibernation of Common chuckwalla it is a somewhat difficult matter, since the animals should not wake up too early.

This means that the process of lowering lighting and temperature, as well as upload it, must be done very slowly.

Buy one "Common chuckwalla"

The "Common chuckwalla" not an easy reptile to find. Its price in the exotic animal market ranges from 200 – 300 EUR. It is important that your acquisition comes from animals bred in captivity to preserve their status in the natural environment.

Videos "Common chuckwalla"

Chuckwalla Red back - Sauromalus ater

Presentation of Sauromalus ater

Alternative names:

1. Common chuckwalla (English).
2. Chuckwalla (French).
3. Chuckwalla (German).
4. Chuckwalla comum (Portuguese).
5. "Chacahuala del Noroeste" (español).

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Poison dart frog
- Dendrobatidae

All climbing frogs are subject to species protection legislation and require confirmation of origin.
Poison dart frog
Oophaga pumilio (formerly known as Dendrobates pumilio), a poison dart frog, from Costa Rica, Central America – No machine-readable author provided. Pstevendactylus~commonswiki assumed (based on copyright claims)., Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Content

The "tree climbing frog" or Poison dart frog (Dendrobatidae) lives mainly in the rainforests of South and Central America. Due to its colorful, their diurnal lifestyle and their interesting reproductive strategy -the parents take care of their offspring-, many species are very popular and are regularly bred in local forms of various colors.

Some popular species are, for example, the Dyeing poison dart frog (Dendrobates tinctorius), the Green and black poison dart frog (Dendrobates auratus), the Yellow-banded poison dart frog (Dendrobates leucomelas), as well as the Anthony's poison arrow frog (Epipedobates anthonyi), the terrible Golden poison frog (Phyllobates terribilis) and Strawberry poison-dart frog (Oophaga pumilio).

Many other species of different genera can be found as offspring in trade.

Sex differences

It is not easy to distinguish the sexes from the Poison dart frog. Females tend to be larger, stronger build and with sticky discs on fingers smaller than males. Males who are ready to mate make a trill.

Behavior

The Poison dart frog can raise itself, as a couple or in a group. The association of several species is usually not problematic in sufficiently large terrariums. Males occupy small territories.

Terrarium

Dendrobates azureus
Dendrobates azureus at Bristol Zoo, England – Arpingstone, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

A terrarium for climbing frogs must have some special features: The so-called "terrariums for the species Dendrobatidae» have fine mesh ventilation surfaces (Drosophila hermetic), as well as a gasket between the sliding panes to prevent very small food animals from escaping, like fruit flies, isopods and springtails. The sloping front windows and generously dimensioned ventilation zones prevent the windows from fogging up in high humidity and, together with a drain integrated in the lower glass, help to avoid dangerous flooding.

The terrarium must measure at least 60 x 40 x 50 cm. (length x widht x hight) for a group of maximum 6 animals of the smallest species (until 4 body length cm), for the largest species at least 80 x 40 x 60 cm. (length x widht x hight) for a maximum of 6 specimens.

Fluorescent tubes with a daily light duration of 10 to 12 hours are suitable for lighting. A UV component can have a positive effect on animal welfare. Because the areas of origin are very different, it is important to create the right temperature conditions for each species; for example, highland species do not tolerate higher temperatures. The optimum for the mentioned species is a soil temperature between 24 and 26 °C, with local heating up to 28 °C. At night, the temperature should be reduced to about 23 °C. At night, the temperature should drop to about 23 °C. For the basic temperature, weak heating mats can be used, installed outside the terrarium. They can be used to heat the floor (at most one third of the soil surface!) or the walls. With the help of a thermocontroller, the heating mat can be specifically controlled to prevent overheating.

The humidity should be at least 80 % and sometimes it can reach almost 100 %. This can be achieved by frequently spraying the terrarium with warm water or using a sprinkler system.. Waterfalls or artificial streams, whose moving water provides high humidity, are also suitable. Precise thermometers and hygrometers are needed to measure temperature and humidity.

For the Poison dart frog, 2, preferably 3 sides of the terrarium should be covered with cork, coconut fiber boards or similar. climbing facilities, like the roots, the lianas, the branches, etc., have proven useful. Curved cork bark or halved coconut shells are popular hiding places.

A shallow bowl of water (or a watercourse) also part of the basic equipment. The soil in the terrarium is suitable as a substrate, coco substrate or moss, which should always be kept slightly moist. A drainage layer of expanded clay at the bottom prevents waterlogging. The natural plantation with ferns, perched plants (for example, bromeliads), as well as climbing and creeping plants (for example, hiedra or ficus climbers) creates additional climbing and retreat possibilities and ensures high and uniform humidity.

Nutrition

The Poison dart frog feeds on the smallest insects (live), to which sufficient quantities must be given each day. In addition to small insects or micro-hunters, fruit flies are especially suitable (Drosophila), bean beetles, springtails, etc. Regular administration of a mineral preparation ensures healthy bone growth.

Care

Food scraps and droppings should be removed daily. The water bowls should also be cleaned daily and filled with fresh water.

Animal health must be monitored daily. The most common health problems in tree frogs are softening of the bones, emaciation, balance disorders and skin disorders. The Poison dart frog is especially sensitive to stressors. In case of anomalies, an amphibian vet should be consulted.

Acclimatization and handling

Amphibians are animals of pure observation and should NOT be petted. In the first days in his new home, animals need adequate rest to get used to their new environment. If required, animals must not be caught by hand, but with the help of plastic boxes or similar.

Reproduction

Dendrobates amazonicus
Ranitomeya amazonica, syn. Dendrobates amazonicus by V2, first published on his homepage youngester.com, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The smallest species spawn mainly on the leaves of plants and trees.. The largest species (Dendrobates tinctorius and Dendrobates auratus) they also spawn in caves. Depending on the species, a spawn comprises between two and 35 eggs. Spawning is preceded by a courtship ritual that can last for hours. The female approaches the male and caresses his back with her front legs. Both then look for a suitable place to spawn. Spawning takes place, for example, on bromeliad leaves above the leaf axils or in the leaf axil itself. The insemination of the eggs by the male occurs externally immediately after their release. The clutches are usually guarded by the male. Some species regularly water their clutches by emptying the contents of their bladder over the eggs..

The poison frogs they are daytime, as their bright colors offer them protection during the day. So that your tadpoles are not at the mercy of predators in rivers and ponds, the tadpoles that hatch after 10 to 16 days of embryonic development are transferred on the back of the male to the smallest accumulations of water in the plants (phytotelmata), like the armpits of leaves filled with water. In some species (for example, the Ranitomeya imitator) this transfer is done individually, in others, eg Epipedobates tricolor, can involve the entire laying at the same time. They later carry their young to the ground in the same way.

Females of some species feed unfertilized proximity eggs to tadpoles until metamorphosis, in others the larvae feed on algae or insects that fall in the axils of the leaves. The development from tadpole to juvenile frog lasts between six and 14 weeks.

Special features

All climbing frogs are subject to species protection legislation and require confirmation of origin. The holder must also comply with the registration obligation (exception: Dendrobates auratus and Dendrobates azureus).

The climbing frogs are highly susceptible to deadly infection by the dangerous chytrid fungus. Before handling the terrarium, all objects must be disinfected and thin rubber gloves must be worn. Newly acquired animals must be kept in strict quarantine for several months.

Although the name of poison frogs is inaccurate, since only a few species can be dangerous to humans, all tree climbing frogs have skin secretions that can cause irritation when they come in contact with human skin. This is another reason why it is advisable to capture the animals only with the help of a small container..

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Ocellated spinytail
- Uromastyx ocellata

The Ocellated spinytail is native to northeastern Africa, where it can be found in southern Egypt, Sudan, Eritrea, Djibouti, Ethiopia (near the border with Somalia) and north-western Somalia.
Tail hawthorn ocellated
Uromastyx ocellata (male) 3-4 years in terrarium – RaSaX, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Content

Characteristics:

The Ocellated spinytail reaches a total length of 30 cm., with a head-torso length of some 16,5 cm and a tail length of 13,5 cm.. So, is one of the smallest species in the genus of Spiny-tailed lizards. It is, because, of one of the smallest species in the genus of Spiny-tailed lizards.

A characteristic feature of this species is the back decorated with white spots on the eyes on a reddish background.. Males tend to be more colorful. Its head and rump are reddish or greenish in color. The belly usually remains white or yellowish, especially in females. Coloration may vary, depending on heat and light exposure. The claws of the Ocellated spinytail they are especially pronounced for digging underground burrows in which it remains overnight as a diurnal animal.. The tail is endowed with pointed scales. Serves as a defense against predators.

The Ocellated spinytail lives both alone and in smaller groups. They do not hibernate but, during the winter months, if they do it.

Terrarium:

Savannah terrarium (dry terrarium subtype) with excavable substrate of 15-30 height cm. Sturdy stone climbing structures and caves below. The recommended terrarium size to keep the Ocellated spinytail (Uromastyx ocellata) adult in pairs is about 100 x 70 x 50 cm..

  • Pulverize 2-3 times a week in the terrarium.
  • Temperature 27-30°C, at night 16-20°C, sunny islands 40-45°C.
  • Humidity 50-60%.
  • Up to lighting 14 hours. UV irradiation required.

Maintenance:

It is recommended to keep the Ocellated spinytailto (Uromastyx ocellata) in pairs. High temperatures are important for digestion, moderate feeding against fat degeneration of the organs. Hibernate during 3 meses a 10-15°C.

Diet:

Vine and banana leaves, sunflower seeds, cereal grains, corn, rice, millet. Rarely animal feed.

Behavior:

To the Ocellated spinytail (Uromastyx ocellata) likes to dig and climb well. This species defends themselves with tail blows. Like all species of Uromastyx, excrete excess salts through the nasal glands.

Reproduction:

The Ocellated spinytail (Uromastyx ocellata) puts between 10 and 23 eggs.

Buy a "oversized spiny tail"

The price of a Ocellated spinytail bred in captivity in the exotic animal market ranges from 250 – 300 EUR.

Alternative names:

1. Ocellated spinytail (English).
2. Fouette-queue ocellé (French).
3. Geschmückte Dornschwanzagame (German).
4. Cauda espinhosa ocelada (Portuguese).
5. Cola espinosa ocelada (español).

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Egyptian spiny-tailed lizard
- Uromastyx aegyptia

The Egyptian spiny-tailed lizard It is the largest species of Spiny-tailed lizards
Egyptian spiny-tailed lizard
Egyptian spiny-tailed lizard – Ethan Ferman, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Content

Characteristics

The Egyptian spiny-tailed lizard (Uromastyx aegyptia) attains a head-torso length of up to 75 cm with a body length of 45 cm., which makes him the greatest representative of the Spiny-tailed lizards. Adult animals reach a weight of 1,5 – 1,6 kg.

There are two subspecies of Egyptian spiny-tailed lizard: Uromastyx aegyptia aegyptia and Uromastyx aegyptia microlepis. In both subspecies the body scales are remarkably small and smooth.. The Egyptian spiny-tailed lizard can change the color of his body. At high temperatures it is light brown to light gray in color and at low temperatures it can turn a dark gray., almost black. The juvenile color consists of 5-6 crossed yellow bands on a gray-brown background color. In the Uromastyx aegyptia microlepis, there are also slightly yellow or green animals.

Distribution

The Egyptian spiny-tailed lizard is found in North Africa, from Algeria to Egypt, in sinai, Israel, Jordan and on the Arabian Peninsula, which makes it the only species of Spiny-tailed lizards which is common in both the Asian and African continents.

The "Egyptian spiny tail" in captivity

Terrarium

The Egyptian spiny-tailed lizard It is the largest species of Spiny-tailed lizards and therefore require a larger environment. A baby or a young (up to about 3 or 4 years of age), can be housed in a temporary terrarium 120 x 60 x 60 cm.. But, an adult will need a much larger terrarium.

We recommend a terrarium of about 150 x 90 x 60 cm o 180 x 75 x 60 cm.. You will have to make this terrarium to measure because there are no commercial terrariums with these dimensions.

Food

In early times nicknamed as pure herbivores, it soon became clear that the Egyptian spiny-tailed lizard (Uromastyx aegyptia) they also like to eat foods of animal origin. It is not strange that each Egyptian spiny-tailed lizard develop your own preferences over time. They can get excited about all kinds of worms (zophobas, meal worms, caterpillars of tebo), or preferring grasshoppers and crickets and disdaining altogether the mentioned worms.

Of course, the supply of calcium and vitamins should never be neglected with all reptiles. Sprinkle green food daily with cuttlefish powder and animal food twice a week with vitamins.

The reaction to food given with tweezers is particularly noticeable: Disliked insects are repelled with a clear shake of the head and closing of the eyes. It also, feeds on various grains and herbs such as lentils, oats, corn, millet, various seeds, peanuts (use sparingly), dried carrots (available at pet stores), carrot herb or kitchen herbs. It also, of course, there are fresh green food every day: here you can resort to high quality salads (lamb's lettuce or arugula), but also prairie vegetables such as dandelion or chickweed. Instead of the salad, homemade sprouts are also very popular. It also, the little ones seem to be magically attracted to the color yellow, so dandelion flowers seem to be quite the event.

Buy an «Egyptian spiny tail»

The price of a Egyptian spiny-tailed lizard at the exotic animal market, captive bred, ranges between 200 – 250 euros.´

Videos "Egyptian spiny-tailed lizard"

Uromastyx Aegyptia

Uromastyx aegyptian foraging

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Ornate mastigure
- Uromastyx ornata

The Ornate mastigure (Uromastyx ornata) is included in the Appendix 2 of the Washington Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora.
Ornate mastigure
Ornate mastigure (Uromastyx ornata) – Hectonichus, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Content

Distribution

Its natural range is the northeast of the Red Sea, from the Sinai Peninsula in the north to northern Yemen in the south.

This species does not occur in pure sandy deserts. They inhabit the cracks of rocks and caves of their biotopes or use burrows dug by themselves.

Characteristics

The Ornate mastigure reaches a maximum total length of 37 cm., although animals in captivity rarely exceed 32 cm..

Is a sexual dimorphism recognizable, males being much more colorful than females. But, are common to both sexes yellow dots or transverse bands that are visible from the neck on the back to the base of the tail. It also, females have a rather smooth cream coloration in the throat and belly.

Terrarium

The large enclosures are suitable for keeping this species of lizard, dry and spacious terrariums are suitable. I believe that 140 x 60 x 60 (long, width, alto) is the absolute minimum size for a single animal/pair. It's not always easy to find a harmonious partner, but most of the time the animals harmonize very well, and you can keep them as a couple throughout the year.

But, it should be possible to separate them at any time. If you don't want to breed, to the Uromastyx ornata can also be maintained individually, since they are actually solitary by nature. This avoids conflicts within the species.

The most colorful males are especially suitable for this, as they are usually more confident than females, but even a female does not feel alone, but it may happen that it forms unfertilized eggs without a male, which can lead to problems when putting them.

Construction of terrarium

The most suitable as substrate is a mixture of sand and mud suitable for excavation. To create additional space it makes sense to design the rear and side walls of the tank with “rock walls” modeled from polystyrene., adhesive for tiles and epoxy resin. Other suitable furniture elements are secure stone structures with quarry slabs, the roots, cork tubes and various climbing branches.

It is also important to create several hiding places, but they must be controllable at all times without having to completely disassemble the terrarium. To avoid molting problems, a part of the terrarium may also have a slight moisture of the substrate, but not too much. You also have to spray from time to time. A bowl of water completes the installation.

The Temperatures should be 28-35°C in summer, with 12-14 hours of illumination, and up to 60°C in the sunning place. At night, the temperature can drop to room temperature. In winter, lighting is gradually reduced to 8 hours, and slowly increases again after a few 8-12 weeks. In winter, the temperature should be 20-28°C during the day and 18-20°C at night. A sunny spot should reach about 40-45°C for about 4 hours in this time.

Food

The Ornate mastigure they have an omnivorous diet, that is to say, eat both plant and animal foods.

Should not be fed animal feed too often, once or twice a week is enough. An exception must be made with pregnant females, which must be given a lot of animal protein. You can also feed them more “unhealthy” treats., such as rose beetles or wax moth larvae.

It can be given fresh vegetable food to adult animals about 3-4 times a week. Grain mixture and dried herbs/flowers can always be available to animals. But, in the case of particularly voracious specimens, you also have to ration this food to prevent them from getting fat.

All common types of insects available in specialized stores are suitable as animal feed, as well as self-caught prairie plankton. Grasshoppers, crickets and cockroaches are the most suitable.

All insects should be fed a high-quality diet 1-2 days before feeding, and dusted with a high-quality calcium vitamin mix about once a week. The fat larvae of the wax moth, zophobas and rose weevils should rarely serve as food as treats.

Young animals can be fed green food and insects daily. Subadults feed on green food on a daily basis, of insects on alternate days and a weekly fast.

The cereal mixture adapted to size is also always available for young animals and subadults.

Reproduction

Depending on geographical location and weather conditions, the mating season occurs in the spring months of March and April. Sexual maturity occurs among 3 and 5 years of age and probably a little earlier in females. During reproduction they are oviparous, the female usually buries some 15 – 20 eggs in the sand and after an incubation period of some 3 – 4 months the pups are born.

For sale Ornate mastigure

The price of a Ornate mastigure bred in captivity in the exotic animal market ranges from 350 – 400 EUR.

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Geckos – A fascinating lizard
- Gekkonidae

Gekko gecko
Gekko gecko – Robert Michniewicz, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Content

Geckos – a brief profile

The Geckos are, without a doubt, fascinating animals. Although they are becoming more popular as pets, the Geckos they continue to enjoy a kind of exotic status. The following brief profile aims to introduce a little to these interesting reptiles.

Origin

The Geckos have an impressive adaptability. That is why there is no region of the world in which they are exclusively located.. The Geckos can be found both in temperate climate regions such as in the desert or in the tropics.

Social behaviour

In the wild, most species of Geckos live in loose associations. But, some species are also strictly solitary, and males and females only come together to mate. In pet ownership, the Geckos they are usually kept in groups of two or more per terrarium.

But, if you keep several Geckos in different terrariums, you will be able to observe very well the communication between the animals. If there are others Geckos in the same territory, greeting each other, will threaten or make courtship sounds.

Geckos for maintenance in captivity

Family
- Lygodactylus williamsi
Electric blue gecko

Electric blue gecko

Trade in the electric blue Gecko is now banned in the EU. They cannot be maintained or sold in the ...
Family
- Correlophus ciliatus
Crested gecko

Crested gecko

Source Content The Crested Gecko (Correlophus ciliatus) is located at the southern end of Grande Terre, the main island of ...
Family
- Cyrtopodion scabrum
Rough-tailed gecko

Rough-tailed gecko

The Rough-tailed Gecko needs a dry, sandy terrarium with shelter and a small log to climb on or climb into. ...
Family
- Underwoodisaurus milii
Thick-tailed gecko

Thick-tailed gecko

Thick-tailed Gecko have the nickname of "Barking Gecko" because they can make the corresponding sounds. If they sit ...
Family
- Phelsuma madagascariensis
Madagascar day gecko

Madagascar day gecko

Thanks to the special adhesive foils on your fingers, the daytime Gecko of Madagascar does not only move through the ...
Family
- Phelsuma laticauda
Gold dust day gecko

Gold dust day gecko

The Golden Day Gecko is commonly known as the GEICO Insurance mascot, and also the main character of the ...
Family
- Gekko badenii
Golden gecko

Golden gecko

The golden yellow Gecko is a splendid terrarium host, as they are very easy to maintain ...
Family
- Lygodactylus luteopicturatus
Dwarf yellow-headed gecko

Dwarf yellow-headed gecko

The Dwarf yellow-headed gecko is widely traded in the exotic animal trade. Content Origin and habitat The ...
Family
- Lygodactylus conraui
Cameroon dwarf gecko

Cameroon dwarf gecko

Extraordinary arboreal dwarf lizard that will soon replace the rarely seen Gecko in terrariums. ...
Family
- Aeluroscalabotes felinus
Gecko cat arboricola

Cat gecko

The Tree Cat Gecko is a graceful gecko highly sought after by gecko collectors.. It's relatively easy to create, ...
Family
- Eublepharis macularius
Leopard gecko

Leopard gecko

Leopard Geckos are peaceful and friendly creatures.. They can be kept individually, as a couple or in a group without any problem. Content ...
Family
- Teratoscincus scincus
Common wonder gecko

Common wonder gecko

The Common Wonder Gecko inhabits the ground in deserts and semi-deserts with sparse vegetation.. High daytime and low temperatures ...
Family
- Gekko vittatus
Lined gecko

Lined gecko

Large and beautifully designed tree gecko. This type of gecko also has the advantage of being totally ...
Family
- Christinus marmoratus
Marbled gecko

Marbled gecko

Very nice Asian gecko, with a splendid contrast of colors in its range of grays, black and white. It is a ...
Family
- Hemidactylus turcicus
Mediterranean house gecko

Mediterranean house gecko

The Pink Salamander is active at sunset and at night. It only activates sporadically during the day, especially when ...

Characteristics

As there are different species of Gecko, the physique of animals is sometimes very different. In total, the respective species reach a length of about 4 to 60 cm.. But, the species of Geckos smaller ones are especially suitable for keeping as pets, as they require less space.

A special feature of the Geckos are its legs, since many species have adhesive sheets with which they can cling to very smooth objects or walk and climb them. Other species, However, have intermediate skins on their fingers and can walk on sand.

Life expectancy

As a rule, the Geckos they live between 8 and 15 years, but there are exceptions. The Leopard gecko, for example, can live 25 years. In principle, you can already tell by the size of the species of Gecko whether the animal can reach a longer life. The smaller a Gecko, the lower your life expectancy will be.

If the Geckos are kept as pets, their life expectancy depends mainly on the conditions in which they are maintained. Keep the Geckos in conditions that are not appropriate for the species usually causes premature death.

Sexual maturity

Sexual maturity in Geckos usually begins at 12-18 months, although there may be differences from one species to another. If the Geckos find abundance of food, females may reach sexual maturity before their physical development is complete. This fact can have fatal consequences for the Gecko.

Gestation period

As for the gestation period, also varies from species to species. In general, However, it can be said that the Geckos have a gestation period of about 45 to 60 days. Depending on the ambient temperature, can pass up to 80 days until hatching. But, in ideal conditions, it only takes a few 50 days.

Food

To maintain the health of the Geckos, depend on a varied and nutritious diet. Between the Geckos there are carnivores, herbivores, omnivores and scavengers. So, the diet can include both insects and snails, green foods and even smaller mammals.

Minimum space required

Before deciding on the terrarium size, you should know what kind of Gecko is and how many animals you want to have together. Basically, the necessary space depends on the body size of adult animals.

So, the species of Geckos smaller require less space than larger ones. If two are maintained Geckos in a terrarium, it is assumed that a minimum space of about 100 cm x 75 cm x 50 cm.. With each additional animal, the need for space increases a 50% more.

Frequently Asked Questions about Geckos

There are questions about the Geckos that are often done. We would like to answer some of them here.

Because the Geckos they can stick to smooth surfaces and thus climb walls?

The secret of the climbing ability of many species of Geckos resides on its special legs. The Geckos have millions of fine hairs on the soles of their feet. These hairs are so fine that even a human hair is hundreds of times thicker.. With the help of these hairs, unique in nature, the Gecko find a foothold even on the smoothest surfaces. This is because a weak electrostatic force acts at the molecular level between each of the tiny hairs and the surface.. For a single hair, this attraction is almost insignificant, but the large number of combined hairs ensures that the Geckos can adhere to almost anywhere.

How do geckos communicate?? do they make sounds?

In fact, most species of Geckos they also communicate with each other using their own vocal language. So that, there are typical calls that can be used to clearly identify certain species of geckos (for example, the Tokay gecko (Gekko gecko)). The frequency and volume of the calls differ according to the species. And even within the same species there are individual differences from one animal to another..

Questions before buying a Gecko

Before buying Geckos, there are some basic questions you should ask yourself. It's important to know what you're getting into, because once you have them at home, you have to be prepared to take care of them for several years. During this time, not only will the costs of keeping the animals occur. Of course, the owner also has to invest a lot of work and time in maintaining the Geckos in a way appropriate to the species.

If you are not familiar with the Geckos as pets, first you should thoroughly inform yourself about the requirements for keeping these reptiles before buying them. Once the purchase decision has been made, the question of where you can buy geckos.

But before you do it, you should check if the Geckos are the right pet for you. And if it is suitable for keeping geckos at all. To avoid impulse purchases, you should take a little time and answer the following questions honestly:

  • I know what breeding is like Geckos appropriate to the species?
  • Work only starts with purchase. Am I willing to sacrifice time, money and space for animals?
  • The costs of breeding Geckos are easily underestimated due to their small size. can i afford to buy a Gecko?
  • The Geckos they can also get sick. Am I willing to pay for any veterinary treatment and medication and can I?
  • One terrarium needs space and special weather conditions. Do I have a suitable room to accommodate the animals?
  • The Geckos they are not stuffed animals. the characteristics of the Geckos fit my ideas about a pet?
  • The Geckos eat live animals. Am I prepared to buy and feed them myself?, and even to raise them?

What are the purchase and maintenance costs that I have to reckon with??

As already mentioned, many people underestimate the costs of maintaining Geckos of appropriate shape to the species due to its small size. But, the costs of keeping pets do not necessarily depend on their size, but of the demands they pose for their maintenance.

Basically, It can be said that the most "exotic" pets, including reptiles such as Geckos, tend to be more expensive to maintain. This is due to the fact that these exotic animals live in nature in completely different climatic conditions than those that prevail here.. The "simulation" of the natural habitat is correspondingly more complex and, Therefore, also more expensive.

Basically, you can distinguish between one-off costs (or rare) and regular to maintain the Geckos.

One-off costs

  • Acquisition costs of animals
  • Terrarium
  • Furnish
  • Illumination
  • Heating systems or thermal carpets
  • Humidifiers or irrigation systems
  • Thermometer
  • Hygrometer

Ordinary costs

  • Food
  • Minerals
  • Detergent
  • Soils
  • Illuminators
  • Electricity for heating and lighting

One-time or infrequent costs amount to approximately several hundred euros, because terrariums and the necessary technology are usually not exactly cheap. It also, there are the costs of buying the animals, in which you have to have some 30 to 100 euros per Gecko.

The usual costs of raising Geckos are somewhat minor, although they should not be underestimated. Food and electricity also cost money. And finally, but not less important, do not forget the veterinary expenses. Regular costs should be at least 20 to 50 euros per animal per month.

Are geckos suitable for children?

And again, parents make the mistake of buying their children a Gecko as a pet. They think that a Gecko It is something completely different and that your child will have a "special" pet. But not even the Gecko nor will the child enjoy this decision, because geckos are definitely not pets for children.

Like the Geckos require a lot of attention, knowledge and care, children would quickly be overwhelmed by them. It also, you must be able to ensure that you are aware of the requirements of the Gecko. And the Geckos they are not stuffed animals, although this claim is often used as a sales strategy in the pet trade.

Of course, there is nothing wrong with buying a Gecko and let the children have a part of the new cohabitant. But, children should not be left to take care of the Gecko solos.

Buy a gecko

The Geckos can be purchased in pet stores, to breeders or at reptile fairs. But, the best and safest option is to buy directly from the breeder. The breeder can often give you advice on breeding Geckos or offer help with any questions or problems. You can also ask the breeder to show you where the Geckos and thus decide for yourself whether the breeder is trustworthy and experienced in breeding Geckos.

At the time of buying Geckos, you must first observe the behavior of animals. Only if the Gecko seems to be healthy and alert you should take it home. In the breeder, you can usually take your time to look and then decide which gecko you like best.. You can also make an appointment with the breeder beforehand and see how the animal is fed..

Unfortunately, there are always black sheep among breeders who only take into account the economic aspect and do not care about animals. It is better to avoid this type of breeders, because each purchase guarantees the continuity of the system.

At the time of buying, pay special attention to whether the terrariums are clean, if the Geckos behave fearfully, if they have enough space and fresh water, and what is the feeding of the Geckos. As you already know what a gecko needs, now it's easy to find out if geckos go well where you want to buy them.

Once you have decided on a Gecko, notice the following:

  • light eyes
  • No wounds or scars
  • No deformities in the toes
  • Age and size
  • Properly fed

Acclimatization period after purchase

After taking the Gecko at home, you need time to get used to your new environment. It is important that you place the animal in the terrarium ready for use immediately after transport and then only observe or talk to you.. In no case should it be removed Gecko to play the first day. New animals must first settle in their unfamiliar environment and this is already stressful enough for the Geckos. If you start too early with pressure or even coercion, there is a risk that animals will react with fear and shyness.

So that the Gecko feel comfortable, the terrarium must be arranged appropriately to the species. If he Gecko has enough hiding places, will be installed faster. after a few days, you should try to attract the Gecko with food and, when sufficiently domesticated, you can try to get it out. If you're lucky, the Gecko it will come to your hand later on its own, but it's also possible that he's still shy. Both must be accepted, because in the end each animal is its own individual.

Alternative names:

1. Gekkota, gekko (English).
2. Gekkonidae (French).
3. Gekkonidae (German).
4. lagartixas, taruíras, osgas, gecos, catongas, bribas, bibas, sardaniscas ou sardanitas (Portuguese).
5. Gecko, Gekko, Geco, Geko, Salamanquina, Salamanquesa (español).

▷ The world of Pets: Dogs, cats, birds, reptiles, amphibians

Madagascar day gecko
- Phelsuma madagascariensis

Thanks to the special adhesive foils on your fingers, the Madagascar day gecko not only moves on the smoothest surfaces, but even clings to the glass upside down without problems.
Madagascar day gecko
A “Madagascar day gecko” in the Lausanne nursery – Gzzz, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons(Switzerland)

Content

Origin

The Madagascar day gecko is native to the eastern coast of Madagascar and usually lives there as a supposed follower of the culture in the proximity of humans. It is not uncommon to find them on the walls of cabins, on rooftops and banana plantations.

Characteristics

The Madagascar day gecko is a lizard of strong constitution, grows quite a lot, with one head-torso length up to approximately 14 cm.. The basic coloring is green, with dark red spots on the back and top of the head. A distinctive feature is the red line that runs from the nostril, passing through the eye, to the temple: like a red Zorro mask!

In case of stress, discomfort or fear, This Gecko can darken its coloration quickly and intensely.
As they do not have eyelids, His "bulging eyes" have a special charm for us. They clean themselves again and again with their own tongues as if they were dirty glasses.

Habitat

This Gecko lives in the trees of the primary forest, in plantations and even homes. They live in an environment where the degree of humidity is very high (at least the 80%). The daytime temperatures oscillate between the 25 and 30 °C during the day and drop to 20 °C at night. In winter, the temperature drops to about 25°C during the day and 15°C at night, for about two months.

The "Madagascar day gecko" in captivity

Madagascar day gecko
Phelsuma madagascariensis madagascariensis, macho en terrario – Manuel Werner, Nuertingen, Germany, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

With the right care and accommodation, the Madagascar day gecko is a grateful animal that gives a lot of pleasure to its owners. But, the conditions and needs of these animals mentioned here must be met.

Next we want to show you some special characteristics of this species in general for its care in the terrarium. Here, animal welfare comes first.

Terrarium

Terrariums for the Madagascar day gecko must be of sufficient height, since all species are arboreal. As a key to the size of the terrarium we recommend calculating with the head-torso length of the animal. The size of the terrarium is calculated as follows for non-adult animals:

  • Terrarium floor space: Four times x three times the head-torso length of the animal.
  • Height of the terrarium: Four times the head-torso length of the animal.
Terrarium measurements: 100 x 60 x 120 cm. (for 1-2 animals)

Observe the growth of the animal in the coming months (fast-growing animal/slow-growing animal) For adult animals (of legal age), the various institutions in Germany give guidelines on the size of the terrarium.

Terrarium installation

The Madagascar day gecko is an excellent climber, you are almost never seen on the ground. Various cork branches, cork tubes and bamboo canes have a decorative appearance and provide the animal with space to walk, including the coveted spot for sunbathing under the point of ultraviolet light. As such, place a branch or root at the right distance from the light source so that the right temperature is created in it. They will also willingly accept some vertical climbing opportunities..

It also, the terrarium must be well decorated with plants. Artificial plants are a practical option in this case, as they can be easily cleaned of droppings.

The suitable substrate is the bark bed (Also called "crust") and the land of the terrarium. Some moss cushions are decorative and regulate humidity. Droppings and food scraps should be removed daily.

Temperature and lighting of the terrarium

The Madagascar day gecko resides in tropical habitats.

Since reptiles are thermal animals, you have to simulate their natural habitat in the terrarium: temperature and humidity. This is achieved by various heat/light sources and water misting/spraying. (sprinkler system).

One thermometer/hygrometer allows the caregiver to control these values. Animals have excellent eyesight and visual acuity. Depend on sufficient lighting. So, is mandatory a good lighting of the terrarium. They also need a sunny spot in the terrarium. This is created by spot lighting, that provides light, heat and UV rays. The highest quality products are necessary here, because only they are equal to the natural light of the sun.

The Madagascar day gecko see the colors in the ultraviolet range, so you can't perceive your surroundings normally without adequate light. It also, only an optimal supply of UV-B light provides enough vitamin D3 for young animals to grow optimally and adults to also be in top shape and display their bright colors.. We recommend the JBL L-U-W Light, which is available in different powers and in the version «Desert» o «Jungle«. This type of lighting provides light, heat and UVA/UVB rays. As a caregiver, can get an especially good climate (and easy to control) using a heating mat under part of the floor of your terrarium.

Although the Madagascar day gecko does not go down to the ground to warm up, yes it heats the basic temperature of the high terrarium -which by design is similar to a fireplace- from below. These terrariums usually have too low temperatures in the lower half of the terrarium outside of summer., so the fry have a hot back and a cold belly. The heating mat must be accompanied by a thermostat. In this way, always get the right climate, as the heating mat turns on automatically when needed. A plus point is the more favorable energy consumption in terms of the environment, since terrariums operated in this way not only require lower power for point lamps, but also, usually, fix themselves with less energy.

For uniform lighting of your terrarium as decoration of your living space, we recommend the LED lighting across the entire terrarium. Light and heating sources are always turned on and off at a daily rate using a timer, 14h on, 10h off.

Nutrition

Exoterra Day Gecko Food
Exoterra Day Gecko Food

The Madagascar day gecko is a fast and agile hunter. The insects that serve as food (crickets, grasshopper, etc.) are always sprinkled with mixtures of vitamins and minerals. This is the only way to avoid irreversible deficiencies, which can often lead to serious illness or even death in young animals and pregnant females, for example.

The feed animals they must always be adapted to the size of the diurnal gecko. Feed only insects that will be eaten directly. Otherwise, feeding animals would disperse around the terrarium, they would hide away and get rid of the attached vitamins/minerals – the result is malnutrition and malnutrition despite food supplies.

It also, yet Madagascar day gecko in nature likes to lick overripe fruits and nectar.

Con «Exoterra Day Gecko Food» small glasses are obtained already prepared with a suitable food porridge. Not offered on the ground, but permanently in the so-called "cup holders" at a high height.

Social behavior and reproduction

The Madagascar day gecko can be maintained individually, in pairs or in a group constellation of one male with several females. Males are always incompatible with each other.

The females of the speciesPhelsuma» put 1-2 eggs after a few 28 days, until 5 times a year. Some species stick eggs to the substrate. The eggs harden quickly in air and the females of the “egg glue species” stick together. 2 eggs each. They like to do it in small cavities like bamboo canes or cork tubes.. The young hatch after 42-70 days.

Curiosities

Thanks to the special adhesive foils on your fingers, the Madagascar day gecko not only moves on the smoothest surfaces, but even clings to the glass upside down without problems. In doing so, develop true superpowers through the call adhesion: thanks to their feet covered with billions of fine hairs, make use of the forces of Van der Waals and electrostatic forces.

On the sides of the back of the head they have small "calcium sacs", which serve females to store calcium in preparation for egg formation.

In the wild, They guarantee their survival against predators by shedding their tails and "molting in a startled manner". If a hunter grabs them by the trunk, the skin sheds and the daytime salamander escapes. Tail and skin regenerate in case of emergency.

For sale "Madagascar day gecko"

The price of a Madagascar day gecko at the exotic animal market, bred in captivity, ranges between 50 – 80 EUR.

Videos "Madagascar day gecko"

Phelsuma Madagascariensis Grandis

Phelsuma madascariensis already adapted (daytime gecko)

Alternative names:

1. Madagascar Giant Day Gecko (English).
2. Gecko de Madagascar, Gecko diurne géant de Madagascar (French).
3. Phelsuma madagascariensi (German).
4. Gecko gigante do dia (Portuguese).
5. Perenquén diurno de Madagascar (español).

▷ The world of Pets: Dogs, cats, birds, reptiles, amphibians

Crested gecko
- Correlophus ciliatus

Crested gecko
The "Crested Gecko" in captivity is docile and tolerates regular handling – Jazium, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Content

Origin

The Crested gecko (Correlophus ciliatus) is located at the southern end of Grande Terre, the main island of New Caledonia, and on the island of Pins, what makes it endemic.

Although the natural habitat of the Crested gecko continues to decline due to permanent environmental degradation, unfortunately not subject to any international protection status. It is being considered in protected status by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES).

Description

The Crested gecko usually measures between 15-25 cm length, including between 10-15 cm of tail. Among the most distinctive features of these geckos are the hair-like projections above the eyes., that look a lot like tabs. These projections continue in the form of two rows of spines that run from the eyes to the sides of its wedge-shaped head and continue to the base of its tail..

The Crested gecko no eyelids. In its place, a transparent scale, or glasses, keeps each eye moist, using the tongue to clean up waste.

These geckos have a semi-prehensile tail that they use to climb. Tail can be dropped (via caudal autotomy) to distract predators. The Crested gecko do not regenerate their tail once they have lost it; most adults in the wild lack a tail.

The toes and the tip of the semi-prehensile tail are covered with small hairs called setae. Each mushroom is divided into hundreds of smaller hairs (of about 200 nanometers in diameter) called spatulas. These structures are thought to take advantage of the weak van der Waals force to help the gecko climb most solid surfaces., easier in the flatter and smoothest, like glass or wood. The fingers have small claws that help them climb over surfaces that their fingers can't hold onto..

Habitat

It is arboreal in nature and lives in the treetops of humid forests., hot and dense lowland vegetation.

The Crested gecko perches on tree branches, but also in the holes of the branches that serve as a hiding place. Its period of activity begins at dusk and ends in the early hours of the morning.

Characteristics

The Crested gecko it is a crepuscular and nocturnal gecko and less shy than the species of the genus Rhacodactylus.

She is a skilled climber. For this it has the help of its adhesive sheets and its claws, as well as his tail, which serves as an additional gripping organ and to maintain balance. Like most Geckos, the Crested gecko is able to release the tail in case of danger (autotomy). But, does not form a full regenerate, so there is only a short stump left.

The growth of the Geckos in general it has no comparison with that of many other reptile species.
Its nature is slow growing. While many species of Geckos of the warm regions of the world grow completely in 1 or 2 years maximum, all the Gecko of New Caledonia need more time for their development.

In the case of Crested gecko need 3 years until they have grown at all.
But, in general, each animal must be considered individually.
Even siblings born on the same day and raised the same way can grow up totally different.

There is a wide range of colors on the market, the following types have demonstrated their heritage over time.

  • No pattern | Exists 1 color Orange, Yellow, White, Negro…
  • Bicolor | 2 colors with mostly light reverses
  • Tricolor | The animal is completely stamped or superimposed with 3 colors.
  • Tiger / Striped | Patterns very rich in contrast, mostly single basic color.
  • Design harlequin interlaced with dark background tone
  • Rear stripe mostly white and the rest very dark
  • Morphs There are many of these on the market, but only the years will show if the inheritance is guaranteed.

  • The "Crested gecko" in captivity

    Terrarium

    The terrarium for him Crested gecko must be high enough, as they are inhabitants of trees and are almost never found on the ground. As a key to the size of the terrarium we recommend calculating with the head-torso length of the animal. The size of the terrarium is calculated as follows for non-adult animals:

    Terrarium floor space: 4 x 3 times the head-torso length of the animal.
    Height of the terrarium: Four times the head-torso length of the animal.
    Observe the growth of the animal in the coming months (fast-growing animal/slow-growing animal).

    Terrarium decoration

    Terrarium Crested Gecko
    TERRARIUM «GECKO EXOTERER

    The Crested gecko it is an excellent climber and needs several cork branches and cork tubes. The bamboo poles also have a decorative aspect and provide the animal with a space to walk, including the coveted heat point under a spotlight. As such, place a branch or root at the right distance from the light source so that the right temperature is created in it. Some vertical climbing possibilities should not be missing.

    It also, the terrarium must be well decorated with plants. Artificial plants are a practical option, as they can be easily cleaned of feces.

    The substrate suitable is the bark bed (Also called "crust") and the land of the terrarium. Moss cushions are decorative and regulate humidity. Droppings and food scraps should be removed daily.

    Temperature and lighting of the terrarium

    Although they are twilight and nocturnal, the Crested gecko sometimes sunbathe and will gladly accept a spot of ultraviolet light. It also, only an optimal supply of UV-B light provides enough vitamin D3 for young animals to grow optimally and adults to also be in top shape and display their bright colors.. We recommend the JBL L-U-W Light, which is available in various powers and in the version «Jungle«. This type of lighting provides light, heat and UVA/UVB rays.

    As a caregiver, can get an especially good climate (and easy to control) using a heating mat under part of the floor of your terrarium. Although the Crested gecko almost never goes to the ground to warm up there, yes it heats the basic temperature of the high terrarium -which by design is similar to a fireplace- from below. These terrariums usually have too low temperatures in the lower half of the terrarium outside of summer., so the fry have a hot back and a cold belly. The heating mat must be accompanied by a thermostat. In this way, always get the right climate, as the heating mat turns on automatically when needed.

    A plus point is the more favorable energy consumption in terms of the environment, since terrariums operated in this way not only require lower power for point lamps, but also, usually, fix themselves with less energy. For one uniform lighting of your terrarium as decoration of your living space, we recommend the LED lighting across the entire terrarium. Light and heating sources are always turned on and off at a daily rate by means of a timer, 14h on, 10h off.

    Food

    Food-Crested gecko
    Food-Crested gecko – ExoTerra

    The Crested gecko seems very quiet, but he is a good hunter. Feeding insects (crickets, domestic crickets, grasshopper, etc.) they are always sprinkled with mixtures of vitamins and minerals. This is the only way to avoid irreversible deficiencies, which can often lead to serious illness or even death in young animals and pregnant females, for example.

    Feeding animals must always be adapted to the size of the Gecko. Feed only insects that will be eaten directly. Otherwise, feeding animals would disperse in the terrarium, they would hide away and get rid of the attached vitamins/minerals – the result is malnutrition and malnutrition despite food supplies. They also like to eat fruit pulp, for example, food for the Crested gecko from Exoterra.

    Social behavior and reproduction

    The Crested gecko can be held individually or in a group. Males are territorial and incompatible with each other. They can be very demanding with females, so it is not recommended to keep them as a "couple.".
    Females put 2 eggs several times a year, that burrow into the moist substrate. After 60-120 days at 21°C to 28°C the young hatch.

    For sale "Crested gecko"

    The price of a "Crested gecko" at the exotic animal market, bred in captivity, ranges between 60 – 80 EUR.

    Videos"Crested gecko"

    My Correlophus ciliatus and the aquaterrarium bombinas orientalis | dadenReptilera

    CUTE! Crested Gecko Correlophus ciliatus Eating

    Alternative names:

    1. Eyelash gecko (English).
    2. Gecko à cils, Gecko à frange (French).
    3. Neukaledonischer Kronengecko (German).
    4. Crested gecko (Portuguese).
    5. Gecko de pestañas (español).