Beautiful skink from Indonesia with a robust appearance and with colors that make it look metallic. Maintenance is exactly the same as for the rest of your family. Diet based on insects and worms.
Reptiles
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Bronze grass skink
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Golden gecko - Gekko badenii
The Golden gecko golden yellow in color is a splendid host of the terrarium, since they are very easy to maintain and are also completely docile
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Distribution and habitat
The exact data of the distribution are not known. The species is known to occur in sandstone formations in transition zones to virgin forest.
Appearance of the "Golden Gecko"
The Golden gecko can measure up to 25 cm in size with its coloration on the back, what gives it its name, light yellow to light orange, that takes on a golden hue with rising temperatures. This is only interrupted with 4-8 light horizontal stripes from neck to tail.
Limbs are light pink to white, the ventral part is also whitish. Females remain smaller and have a more subtle light brown dorsal coloration.. They also seem to be more shy than males., that despite their nocturnal activity they can also be seen during the day.
Kept in a small group of one male and several females, the Golden gecko they constitute an attractive and interesting option for their maintenance in a terrarium.
The "Golden Gecko" in captivity
Due to the relatively small size of the Golden gecko, relatively little space is needed in the terrarium, although it is important to note that animals should be kept in a small group. The furniture and the climate must be adapted to the conditions of the tropical/subtropical zone of origin..
Minimum size of the terrarium
As the Golden gecko it is a good climber with its adhesive leaflets and stays in nature on sandstone formations and trees, height is more decisive than floor space. For a harem group of one male with two females, the minimum size of the terrarium is 80 x 80 x 120 cm. (length x widht x hight).
Terrarium furniture
The Golden gecko lives in transition regions from montane forests to tropical rainforests in its area of ​​origin. The sandstone formations of its habitat offer many opportunities for climbing and hiding in the form of ledges or crevices.. Younger animals have also been observed in trees, possibly to escape predation pressure from Golden gecko adults feeding on young.
When setting up the terrarium Golden gecko, many climbing possibilities and hiding places must be offered, even in captivity. A properly designed back wall with ledges to climb on and crevices to hide in is a must. Inside, roots and wood, large-leaved plants and caves and tunnels can be used for climbing and hiding. Peat or pieces of fine bark are suitable as a substrate.
Temperature, illumination, humidity
The temperature in the tropical terrarium should be about 25-30 °C during the day. At night, When setting up the terrarium 20 °C. Make sure there is a temperature gradient so Geckos can seek out cooler regions or refuel when they need it.
When setting up the terrarium, the latter means that there must be places that continue to give off heat at night. A stone lit by a radiant heater during the day or a spot on the back wall, for example, the latter means that there must be places that continue to give off heat at night, the latter means that there must be places that continue to give off heat at night. A heating mat or cable on part of the floor or back wall ensures warm hiding places during the day, the latter means that there must be places that continue to give off heat at night.
The Golden gecko, the latter means that there must be places that continue to give off heat at night, the latter means that there must be places that continue to give off heat at night. Basic lighting with fluorescent tubes such as T5 or T8 guarantees a natural rhythm of day and night. A UV lamp contributes to a natural light spectrum and provides animals with the UVB component necessary for the synthesis of vitamin B3.
The humidity in the area of ​​origin of the Golden gecko is from 70-80 % and should increase towards the night. These values ​​can be easily achieved with a spray bottle or automatically., for example, with a sprinkler system. It is important that the "rain" falls again in the afternoon, since animals cover their liquid needs by licking the drops that accumulate on the crystals and leaves of plants. A wet box should also not be missing. The Golden gecko they can go there when they need especially high humidity. These may include, during the move.
To check the values, the usual means of measurement and control technology are used.
Terrarium cleaning
Droppings, food and any peeling residue should be removed from the terrarium of the Golden gecko daily. Otherwise, crystals can be cleaned once a week with hot water, steam and cleaning products from a specialized shop to ensure optimal visibility. steam and cleaning products from a specialized shop to ensure optimal visibility.
Nutrition of the «Golden Gecko»
The Golden gecko steam and cleaning products from a specialized shop to ensure optimal visibility. steam and cleaning products from a specialized shop to ensure optimal visibility. In the wild, steam and cleaning products from a specialized shop to ensure optimal visibility, steam and cleaning products from a specialized shop to ensure optimal visibility. in the terrarium, steam and cleaning products from a specialized shop to ensure optimal visibility, like crickets, steam and cleaning products from a specialized shop to ensure optimal visibility. steam and cleaning products from a specialized shop to ensure optimal visibility, for example, steam and cleaning products from a specialized shop to ensure optimal visibility, steam and cleaning products from a specialized shop to ensure optimal visibility.
Young animals should be fed every day, steam and cleaning products from a specialized shop to ensure optimal visibility. steam and cleaning products from a specialized shop to ensure optimal visibility, feed animals should be dusted with a vitamin and mineral preparation according to package directions. Always have a bowl of cuttlefish powder on hand.
Feeding animals can simply be placed in the terrarium. This has the advantage that the hunting process can be observed. But, you have less control over which animal you eat and how much. This works best with food tongs.
The Golden gecko they will also get used to regular contact with you, which is not only nice. It also makes your job easier when you have to take them out.. These may include, to clean the terrarium from scratch. Or in case of suspected disease, for the exam, the visit to the veterinarian or the transfer to the quarantine tank.
Hibernation of the "Golden Gecko"
For about two months in winter, temperatures should be reduced to 15-18 °C. Lighting time is also reduced, each 6 hours a day. Hibernation is important for Golden gecko and has a positive effect on reproduction.
Breeding and reproduction of the «Golden Gecko»
The Golden gecko reach full sexual maturity at 15 months approximately. Colder winter temperatures herald spring mating season, which lasts until about September. for each setting, the female sticks two hard-shelled eggs on the windows, back walls or furniture such as branches. Depending on the temperature, The young hatch after a few 70 to 90 days. Next, should be placed in a breeding tank, as they are persecuted by adults.
The Golden gecko it is a good guardian for the terrarium. It does not need a lot of space or require too much maintenance. It is even more surprising that there is hardly any information on the conservation of this exotic Vietnamese. But, observation is even more interesting. In this article we have summarized the most important data for you.
Buy a “Golden Gecko”
The price of a Golden gecko in the exotic animal market ranges from 15 and 20 EUR.
Alternative names:
1. Baden’s Pacific gecko (English).
2. Gecko dorée du vietnam (French).
3. Vietnam-Goldgecko, Gelber Vietnamgecko (German).
4. Lagartixa dourada, Lagartixa do Pacífico de Baden (Portuguese).
5. Lagartija leopardo (español).
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Egyptian spiny-tailed lizard - Uromastyx aegyptia
The Egyptian spiny-tailed lizard It is the largest species of Spiny-tailed lizards
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Characteristics
The Egyptian spiny-tailed lizard (Uromastyx aegyptia) attains a head-torso length of up to 75 cm with a body length of 45 cm., which makes him the greatest representative of the Spiny-tailed lizards. Adult animals reach a weight of 1,5 – 1,6 kg.
There are two subspecies of Egyptian spiny-tailed lizard: Uromastyx aegyptia aegyptia and Uromastyx aegyptia microlepis. In both subspecies the body scales are remarkably small and smooth.. The Egyptian spiny-tailed lizard can change the color of his body. At high temperatures it is light brown to light gray in color and at low temperatures it can turn a dark gray., almost black. The juvenile color consists of 5-6 crossed yellow bands on a gray-brown background color. In the Uromastyx aegyptia microlepis, there are also slightly yellow or green animals.
Distribution
The Egyptian spiny-tailed lizard is found in North Africa, from Algeria to Egypt, in sinai, Israel, Jordan and on the Arabian Peninsula, which makes it the only species of Spiny-tailed lizards which is common in both the Asian and African continents.
The "Egyptian spiny tail" in captivity
Terrarium
The Egyptian spiny-tailed lizard It is the largest species of Spiny-tailed lizards and therefore require a larger environment. A baby or a young (up to about 3 or 4 years of age), can be housed in a temporary terrarium 120 x 60 x 60 cm.. But, an adult will need a much larger terrarium.
We recommend a terrarium of about 150 x 90 x 60 cm o 180 x 75 x 60 cm.. You will have to make this terrarium to measure because there are no commercial terrariums with these dimensions.
Food
In early times nicknamed as pure herbivores, it soon became clear that the Egyptian spiny-tailed lizard (Uromastyx aegyptia) they also like to eat foods of animal origin. It is not strange that each Egyptian spiny-tailed lizard develop your own preferences over time. They can get excited about all kinds of worms (zophobas, meal worms, caterpillars of tebo), or preferring grasshoppers and crickets and disdaining altogether the mentioned worms.
Of course, the supply of calcium and vitamins should never be neglected with all reptiles. Sprinkle green food daily with cuttlefish powder and animal food twice a week with vitamins.
The reaction to food given with tweezers is particularly noticeable: Disliked insects are repelled with a clear shake of the head and closing of the eyes. It also, feeds on various grains and herbs such as lentils, oats, corn, millet, various seeds, peanuts (use sparingly), dried carrots (available at pet stores), carrot herb or kitchen herbs. It also, of course, there are fresh green food every day: here you can resort to high quality salads (lamb's lettuce or arugula), but also prairie vegetables such as dandelion or chickweed. Instead of the salad, homemade sprouts are also very popular. It also, the little ones seem to be magically attracted to the color yellow, so dandelion flowers seem to be quite the event.
Buy an «Egyptian spiny tail»
The price of a Egyptian spiny-tailed lizard at the exotic animal market, captive bred, ranges between 200 – 250 euros.´
Videos "Egyptian spiny-tailed lizard"
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Russian tortoise - Testudo horsfieldii
The Russian tortoise (Testudo horsfieldii) during very hot summers, they burrow to spend a period of summer dormancy. In countries where summers are mild, this rarely lasts longer than 3 weeks.
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Origin
There are four subspecies of the Russian tortoise (Testudo horsfieldii), which can be found from the Caspian Sea, passing through Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan and Tajikistan, to eastern Iran and northern Afghanistan. Sometimes, the Russian tortoise can be found even as far away as western China.
Characteristics / Appearance
The species reaches a size of 15 cm. (males) some 25 cm., very rarely 28 body length cm (females) and then weighs between half a kilogram and two kilograms.
The rather small size of the Russian tortoise it's just a feature, but not one by which it can be definitively recognized. Another feature is the shell. Has an oval dorsal shell, almost circular, which is also quite flat. Much flatter than other species in the genus Testudo. A coloration between yellow and brown and also olive characterizes the basic color of the shell. It also, there are dark spots. The Russian tortoise has basically only four fingers. Other species usually have five fingers.
The male is recognized by his curved abdominal shell (concave), which makes it easier for you to get on the females and gives them a foothold. Males have a longer and thicker tail than females. On the other hand, females are much larger and have a very flat abdominal shell.
Habitat
In their habitats there are always stony and arid tracts of land, so the Russian tortoise it also has its other name, "steppe tortoise". Adapts well in dry and arid areas. But, animals are most often found near rivers.
Behavior
The strong claws of the front legs and the flat shell allow the Russian tortoise (Testudo horsfieldii) dig burrows up to four meters long, that you use repeatedly. At night, when it's very hot, during summer and winter lethargy, takes refuge in them, as they provide you with security from predators and soil temperatures remain relatively constant. They are often seen sitting at the entrance of the cave in the morning., when the weather is uncertain. In your range, the continental climate is hot and dry in summer and wet and icy in winter. It is characterized by large daily and seasonal temperature swings of up to 40 °C, and often it doesn't rain in the middle of summer. These conditions demand enormous adaptability of animals in their arid habitats..
The hibernation lasts until mid to late March, until 6 months. No matter how harsh and cold the winters are, the warm season arrives quickly and without transition with an initial abundance of plants. These turtles only have three to five months to feed, grow and reproduce. With the increase in heat in early summer and the onset of drought, finding food during the day becomes increasingly difficult, so you have to take advantage of the morning and night hours for it. In the middle of summer, it is so hot and dry in many habitats that the animals go into a summer lethargy of one to two months. (aestivation) due to lack of food and heat and do not reappear until September, if at all. They take advantage of the short period until hibernation to look for food until they hibernate again in mid to late October due to nighttime temperatures, often very severe, below zero.
In the wild, sometimes occupy enormously large territories. They are common 10 hectares for a male and even 30 hectares for a female. So, turtles are rarely found. But, it is precisely these circumstances that make the Russian tortoise a highly specialized species that cannot cope with the usual breeding of a species of European turtle long-term.
Reproduction
When a male sees a female, approaches her in courtship plan. With the neck stretched out and the head nodding from top to bottom, the potential partner surrounds your chosen one. Finally, bites her front legs to force her to sit still. Males usually have a much longer tail with a nail on the tail, which can cause serious injury to the cloacal region of the female if mating attempts are too frequent.
During copulation, the male adopts an almost vertical position behind the female. At the same time, the male opens his mouth, the red, fleshy tongue becomes visible and emits picket sounds.
Females lay surprisingly large eggs between two and four weeks after mating, usually between 2 and 5 (up to a maximum of 9). Its shape is elongated-oval, of about 35-40 millimeters in length and about 15-20 g. of weight. The babies, almost round, hatch after sixty to a maximum of 100 days if eggs are artificially incubated at 28-32°C. A single successful mating is enough to fertilize the eggs of several clutches. For this reason, and by the huge and almost annoying mating desire of males, it makes sense in human care to keep males and females separate from each other outside of the actual mating season to ensure stress-free maintenance..
Conservation status and danger of extinction
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Vulnerable ⓘ
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Since 1975, this species is subject to the Washington Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora, where listed in Appendix II. EU Species Protection Regulation includes species in Appendix B. Thus, can only change ownership as a hatchling and only with a certificate of origin stating where and when the turtle was bred. It also, animals must be registered within the EU with the local authority responsible for the protection of species (= free).
IUCN classifies the Russian tortoise as "in danger" (VU, vulnerable).
The "Russian tortoise" in captivity
In their natural habitats, the Russian tortoise is exposed to very contrasting climatic conditions. While in summer the heat causes even the summer lethargy of the animals, the Russian tortoise is forced to enter winter torpor every year in October due to temperatures of up to -21 °C.
In captivity, animals usually go into hibernation from mid-November at a temperature of between 2 °C y 4 °C. As such, turtles bury themselves in the ground. As such, turtles dig into the ground. The natural habitat allows tunnels of up to 2 m depth. In outdoor enclosures in captivity, the Russian tortoise is usually buried between 30 and 60 cm depth in the enclosure. As such, many caregivers create an additional hibernation pit, which is protected from predators from below and offers frost protection from above, for example by means of a greenhouse.
A constant temperature of 2°C to 4°C is important for the Russian tortoise. It should not be hotter than this for hibernation, otherwise proper hibernation will not occur. The Russian tortoise remains in hibernation in an outdoor enclosure for the same time as the Greek tortoise, for example. Normally they are 5 months. Many turtles come out of their burrows in spring, from the month of April, and become active quite quickly.
Food
The Russian tortoise it is herbivorous. Prefer dried herbs and grasses. The menu can also be completed with fresh vegetables. Should not be fed too much protein, as animals grow too fast and this can lead to shell deformation.
Buy one "Russian tortoise"
how much does one cost "Russian tortoise"?
Only animals raised in the EU can cross national borders and only these animals can be sold. Despite the fact that possession without official papers is allowed, the origin must be proved. So, if you buy one Russian tortoise, needs a proper proof of origin from the breeder. If the purchase is not made from the breeder but from an owner, he usually has such a certificate from the breeder and delivers it at the time of delivery.
We strongly discourage the purchase of a Russian tortoise (Testudo horsfieldii) without adequate proof of origin. If the origin and filiation are not correctly demonstrated, turtles can be confiscated.
Having said that, the price of a "Russian tortoise" in the exotic animal market ranges from 80 – 130 EUR.
Images "Russian tortoise"
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A case of convergence. Gopherus flavomarginata (above) and Testudo horsfieldii (below). Both have flat shells and powerful arms. |
Airtight tanks make it easy to dig into the ground. This makes soft tissues particularly visible. |
Young people do not break the egg at the poles, but in the middle |
Youth: a distinctive central keel on the shell recalls the appearance of earlier ancestors |
Agrionemys horsfieldii |
Male (medium) and two females |
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Alternative names:
1. Afghan tortoise, Central Asian tortoise, Horsfield’s tortoise, four-clawed tortoise, (Russian) steppe tortoise (English).
2. Tortue russe, Tortue des steppes (French).
3. Steppenschildkröte, Russische Landschildkröte (German).
4. tartaruga afegã, tartaruga da Ásia Central, tartaruga de Horsfield, tartaruga de quatro garras, e tartaruga de estepe (Portuguese).
5. Tortuga de la estepa, Tortuga Afgana, Tortuga de cuatro dedos (español).
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Nicaraguan slider - Trachemys emolli
The Nicaraguan slider lives in all kinds of watercourses: lazy rivers, lakes, swamps, ponds, voice,… They adapt to almost any aquatic environment, except fast-flowing rivers.
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Origin / Distribution
The Trachemys emolli was first described as a subspecies of Trachemys scripta in 1990. From 2002, was treated as a separate species.
The Nicaraguan slider (Trachemys grayi emolli) It has its distribution area in Costa Rica., El Salvador, Honduras and Nicaragua.
Characteristics / Appearance
The Nicaraguan slider is similar to Red-eared slider (Trachemys scripta), but from the point of view of the animal keeper it has the advantage that it is not on the list of invasive species in the EU. Rarely kept in zoos.
The Nicaraguan slider grows quite a lot, the males 20-30 cm., the females up 38 cm and possibly more. Shell, with circular markings, it is slightly keeled and serrated on the posterior margin. The basic color of the body and soft tissues is olive green to dark brown., the markings are yellow, the yellow-orange cheek patch.
Habitat
The species prefers stagnant or slow-flowing waters with mostly dense underwater vegetation.. Juveniles feed mainly on small animals such as tadpoles., small fish and crustaceans, snails and insects. With increasing age, algae and aquatic plants are also increasingly taken. Females can produce several clutches of eggs per season., which lasts from December to May and can contain up to 30 eggs.
Threats to the species
The Nicaraguan slider serves as a provider of meat and eggs for the local population. Breeding farms have also been created.
International trade is not regulated by the CITES.
The "Nicaraguan slider" in captivity
Aquaterrarium
The Nicaraguan slider needs an integrated land area.
They can reach a total length of 28 cm in the aquarium. Females always grow slightly larger than males.. So, they need an aquarium with a rim length of at least 150 cm.. But, more is always better.
They need hiding places and shelters. especially the roots, timber, aquarium plants and stone or rock structures are gladly accepted by the animals.
Tortoises can be kept in pairs or in groups with several conspecifics.. Socialization with other turtles is also possible.
The Nicaraguan slider adapts wonderfully to aquarium conditions. They feel very comfortable in water temperatures between 23 and 30 degrees Celsius. The pH value should be between 6,0 and 7,5. Low heat point of the integrated ground part, the temperature can even reach 40 degrees Celsius. During the winter months, between october and february, you have to lower the temperature of the water to 23 – 25 degrees Celsius.
The Nicaraguan slider feed mixed. They accept both meat and plant foods.
Buy one "Nicaraguan slider"
The price of a "Nicaraguan slider" at the exotic animal market, ranges between 60 – 100 EUR.
Videos "Nicaraguan slider"
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Alternative names:
1. Nicaraguan slider (English).
2. Trachémyde du Nicaragua (French).
3. Nicaragua-Schmuckschildkröte (German).
4. Tartaruga da Nicarágua (Portuguese).
5. "Tortuga nicaragüense" (español).
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Meller's chameleon - Trioceros melleri
The Meller's chameleon It is the largest chameleon on the African continent., large males usually reach 61 cm length
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Origin / Distribution
The Meller's chameleon (Trioceros melleri) can be found in Malawi, northern Mozambique and Tanzania.
Characteristics / Appearance
The Meller's chameleon It is the largest chameleon on the African continent., large males usually reach 61 cm length, but some exceptionally large specimens are said to have reached more than 76 cm in length and have weighed 600 g..
Females are generally smaller than males., and have less developed dorsal and medial crests. The head of this species is relatively small in relation to the rest of the body and has a more elongated shape compared to other chameleons of its genus..
The Meller's chameleon it is stocky-bodied and has a relatively stubby tail one-third the length of its body. A low, scalloped crest extends from just behind the helmet of the head through the proximal half of the tail, and a sharp medial ridge runs from the eyes to the tip of its snout, bearing a single small horn. This chameleon has greatly enlarged occipital lobes. It has heterogeneous scales that vary in shape and size on various parts of its body and large, granular scales evenly distributed on the trunk and limbs.. In the gular region of the chameleon there are longitudinal rows of large, granular scales., one of its most distinctive features.
The spots and broad vertical bands on the chameleon's flanks range in color from brown, the dark green, yellow or even black. The basic coloration of this species is a deep green with white stripes, but, like many chameleons, can change its color depending on various circumstances. If they are fed or handled, may show black and white dots. when sunbathing, the side of their body facing sunlight may turn dark green or black, while the rest of the animal remains much lighter.
The Meller's chameleon has color patterns associated with stress. Mild excitement or stress is indicated by dark spots that overlay the reptile's normal color. These dark green spots turn to black specks as the chameleon becomes more disturbed.. Severe stress turns the chameleon first charcoal gray, followed by pure white trimmed with yellow stripes. One Meller's chameleon diseased may be mottled brown, grey, pink or white.
Habitat
The Meller's chameleon it is a resident of the treetops of the bush savannahs, as well as from the summits of tropical forests. It can also occasionally be found near human settlements.. Here the altitudes range from 0 to 600 m.
Threats to the species
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Minor Concern ⓘ
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The populations of Meller's chameleon are affected by the wildlife trade, and the species has been included in Appendix II of CITES to limit its effects.
The "Meller's chameleon" in captivity
These chameleons range from docile to moderately aggressive towards humans.. Often, require a great deal of taming before they accept people. Wild-caught can be more aggressive than those in captivity, since they are not used to people.
Usually, they are old enough to be self-confident and not scared of much. They are not used to many lizards being bigger than them. But, they can become aggressive when they feel threatened. They may hiss and try to appear large in an attempt to scare away predators.. They rarely do this with people, unless they are treated badly.
Despite the misconception, these chameleons do not blend in with their surroundings. On the other hand, its color change pattern is much more likely to be communication. These species of chameleons darken when they are angry and light up when trying to attract a mate.. You can often tell what your chameleon is thinking based on its color. It will probably cost you a bit, but in time you will learn to speak their language. This can help you determine if something is wrong.
The terrarium
just because of its size, they need large terrariums or should be kept in a greenhouse. In large terrariums they can be kept in pairs or in small groups of females.. Males are absolutely incompatible with each other. The terrarium should be designed with strong climbing branches and sturdy plants.
As they live in nature in the treetops, the terrarium must be well lit. Neon tubes or new T-5 neon tubes are suitable, that emit an extremely bright light.
Spraying briefly in the morning and longer in the afternoon, should try to get a 50-60% humidity during the day and a 80-90% At night.
Temperatures should not exceed 30°C during the day and can drop to 18°C or lower at night.
These chameleons also prefer to drink water on the move, so it is advisable to accustom the animals to a dripper or install a small waterfall. A three-month rainy season, from March to May, simulates natural conditions and can have a positive effect on reproductive behavior.
Food
Due to its large size, these chameleons eat important prey. They can even eat small birds in the wild, so you have to take it into account when offering them the right feeding insects. Giant cockroaches are usually a good option, as they spread further than most commonly available insects. You can also use hornworms and moths, since they are also quite large.
Grasshoppers and anything else that size is a good option. They can also eat smaller items, like the worms. But, these will not serve as sustenance, so it is better to use larger prey for the most part.
Feed them a few different prey items each day. For most chameleons, a smaller number of prey is better. are likely to be overweight. You need to feed them enough to maintain a healthy weight. Monitor your body condition and adjust food intake as needed.
It is advisable to supplement the diet of chameleons. But, are sensitive to excess supplementation, so it is essential to be careful with the dose. They need calcium without phosphorus a couple of times a week at least. A vitamin D3 may also be recommended, although it should only be used once a month. The intestinal load of insects is essential to ensure that they consume many vitamins and minerals, that are essential to your overall health.
Health and handling
These chameleons are a bit sensitive when it comes to their overall health.. Often, wild-caught chameleons arrive with injuries or other problems that were not originally expected. They often have parasites and are dehydrated. They can take a long time to regain their full strength.. In many cases, these chameleons are known as "lizards of 90 days", since many of them do not recover from their transportation ordeal.
You should carefully inspect your chameleon for any injuries upon arrival. The most common problems are loss and infection of the toenails.. Bites and scratches can also occur, but these are rarer. Can be treated with a multipurpose ointment, which should be enough for most wounds. In some cases, a visit to the vet may be necessary to treat the wound.
Parasites are a major problem in this disease. Periodic fecal analysis may also be necessary.. A heavy load of parasites can be dangerous for these lizards. But, you may want to wait until the chameleon stabilizes before using a harsh parasite medication. Sometimes, these chameleons do not survive treatment. You do not want to add additional stress to the animal's system.
Stress is the main concern with these animals. They can get stressed very quickly, especially after being imported. Stress can make them exposed to diseases, which can lead to illness and death. They need adequate housing with the correct temperature and lighting. You don't have to handle them too often., as this can also cause them stress.
Buy one "Meller's chameleon"
Compared to other reptiles, these chameleons can be quite expensive. They usually cost between 150 and 500 EUR. Buying wild-caught chameleons is often not recommended. These are typically much less likely to thrive than captive-bred lizards. Usually, those caught in the wild go through a complex shipping process, they are disease carriers and have a high parasite load. For this reason, often have difficulty in captivity.
We recommend finding a local breeder if possible. These chameleons are not well behaved when shipped, so it is better to buy them locally. We recommend a breeder instead of a pet store, as this can reduce your cost. It also, you will be sure that the chameleon has been bred in captivity instead of being caught in the wild.
The breeder must allow you to see the enclosures in which the adults and babies are kept.. This will give you a good idea of where the chameleon has been and the level of care it has received.
Videos "Meller's chameleon"
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Alternative names:
1. Meller's chameleon, Giant one-horned chameleon, (English).
2. Caméléon de Meller, Caméléon cornu géant (French).
3. Mellers Riesenchamäleon, Riesiges einhörniges Chamäleon, Meller’s chameleon, Elefantenohrchamäleon (German).
4. Camaleão de Meller, Camaleão gigante de um chifre (Portuguese).
5. "Camaleón de Meller", Camaleón gigante (español).
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Nelson's milksnake - Lampropeltis triangulum nelsoni
The Nelson's milksnake (Lampropeltis triangulum nelsoni) it is a small to medium sized snake, with a length of 91-152 centimeters.
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Origin / Distribution
The Nelson's milksnake (Lampropeltis triangulum nelsoni) It is named in honor of Edward W.. Nelson, who worked for the U.S.. Biological Survey desde 1890.
It is a subspecies of mousetrap coral (Lampropeltis triangulum) found in Mexico from southern Guanajuato and central Jalisco to the Pacific coast, also found in the narrow plains of northwestern Michoacán and on the Tres Marías Islands.
Characteristics / Appearance
The Nelson's milksnake (Lampropeltis triangulum nelsoni) it is a small to medium sized snake, with a length of 91-152 centimeters, being the mean of 107-120 centimeters. like most snakes, The females are bigger than the males. These snakes have 13 and 18 wide red rings on the body, with thinner black bands and even thinner white ones.
Habitat
The distribution area of this snake seems to be linked to the proximity of watercourses, including those used for irrigation and agriculture.
The "Nelson's milksnake" in captivity
The terrarium
Use a loose substrate and provide the snake with two hiding places, one on each side of the terrarium, and other decorations such as plants, remained, tubes, lianas, etc. This will not only add security to the terrarium, it will also encourage escalation. The creation of a bioactive facility, the use of a low percentage ultraviolet light during the day, and/or provision of a water dish large enough for the snake to soak in can also add enrichment.
Hideouts should be one at the cold end and one at the hot end. This allows the snake to thermoregulate, control your body temperature, while allowing her to feel safe.
Temperature and humidity
An under tank heater (UTH), like a heat mat, a thermal tape or a thermal cable, it is a good heat source for king snakes. Make sure the UTH covers at least 1/3, but preferably 1/2, of floor space. Surface temperature above the UTH should be 29-32°C , and it should not go down at all at night. Ambient temperatures must be 23-28°C throughout the enclosure, and can drop to 18-21°C at night.
Humidity should be moderate: 30-50%. A wet hide box can be provided to aid in the molting process, and the general humidity can increase up to 60-70% during this time. This should be measured with a digital probe hygrometer. If the humidity is too high or too low for a long time, shedding problems or even an upper respiratory infection may occur.
Ambient temperatures should be measured with a digital probe thermometer, and surface temperatures should be measured with an infrared temperature gun. ALWAYS connect all heat sources to a thermostat or regulator to avoid burns or fires, and to be able to control the temperatures.
Don't trust glued-on analog thermometers and hygrometers, as they are notoriously inaccurate. Also avoid thermal rocks; they are known to overheat very easily and burn animals.
Illumination
The Nelson's milksnake does not require UV lighting; However, a linear light 5-6% UVB is beneficial and can be used, But again, not essential. Like most herpes, they should be provided with some source of lighting during the day so that they can distinguish day from night. Natural lighting can provide it, or LED lighting can be used in the enclosure, especially if it includes live plants. Always turn off all the lights at night, including the black ones, purple or red, as lights of any color can disrupt your sleep schedule. A ceramic heat emitter can be used instead (THAT).
Cleaning and maintenance
Unless you have a bioactive facility, cleaning the terrarium should be done whenever feces are seen. The substrate must be changed according to the instructions of the brand. Deep clean the enclosure every few months using a mixture 1:1 of white vinegar and water or other reptile-safe disinfectant.
The water bowl should be cleaned and refilled daily, and if it is emptied or soiled with substrate or excrement. All water used to spray the tank must be purified or treated, not distilled.
Food
like all snakes, the Nelson's milksnake is an obligate carnivore. In the wild, these snakes eat small rodents, birds, amphibians, lizards and other snakes. They are not immune, but they are resistant to the venom of native snakes. Captive bred specimens readily eat frozen or thawed mice. Mice should be slightly larger than (until 1,5 times) the thickest part of the snake's body, so that it leaves a small lump after feeding; adults usually eat weaned mice. The young should eat every 5-7 days, the youth each 7-10 days and adults every 10-14 days, depending on how they maintain their body weight.
The Nelson's milksnake you should always have a bowl of clean, fresh water at your disposal. The dish should preferably be large enough for them to soak in if they wish.. No food bowl needed, but a Tupperware lid can be used during feeding to help prevent the substrate from being consumed.
Substrate
Some good choices are kiln-dried pine, the coconut shell, cypress mulch, a mixture of sand and earth and orchid bark. Poplar chips can be used if the moisture is kept in a 30-40% to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria. A loose substrate must be used so that they can dig, but paper towels are a good substrate to use during quarantine.
Problem solving
My snake does not eat
The Nelson's milksnake they are usually very enthusiastic eaters. First of all, take into account the time you have been with her. Newly acquired snakes usually take a few weeks to eat, since moving from one place to another causes them stress. Also make sure they are cared for properly; check temperatures and humidity levels, and make sure you provide them with plenty of security by using hiding places and foliage, and covering three of the sides. They do accept live prey but not frozen/thawed, try various techniques, how brainless he is, sniffing and pre-killing, to help them switch to dead prey. If you are concerned that you are not eating due to a health problem, or if you are losing a significant amount of weight, take her to the vet.
My snake is not molting at all
If they are given adequate moisture and lots of different textures to rub against as they shed, they shouldn't have any problem removing everything by themselves. A wet stash box or larger water container can help. If they have retained several molt layers, give them a shallow warm bath and carefully wash them off yourself.
My snake is always in its water bowl
First of all, check the humidity levels in the enclosure and make sure they are high enough (30-50%). Next, make sure the surface or ambient temperature is not too high. If humidity and temperatures are on point, consider whether or not the snake is in the shed. If they are, they may just be soaking to help the skin come off. You may want to give them a moist hiding place during this time., so they don't have to be exposed in the water dish. If they're not in the shed, maybe they're just soaking because they like it; However, shouldn't be a constant, as it is a sign of mites or other health problems, and frequent soaking can cause scale rot. if you care, take her to the vet.
Buy one "Nelson's milksnake"
They are usually sold between 70 and 150 EUR. It is always better to buy in exhibitions, small local breeders, reputable online reptile stores or breeders, rather than chain pet stores or large-scale breeders.
Videos "Nelson's milksnake"
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Alternative names:
1. Nelson's milksnake (English).
2. Serpent faux corail, Serpent du lait du Honduras (French).
3. Nelsons Milchschlange (German).
4. Cobra de leite de Nelson, Milksnake de Nelson (Portuguese).
5. "Falsa coral de Honduras", Falsa Coralillo, Serpiente lechera de Nelson (español).
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Puff-faced water snake - Homalopsis buccata
The Puff-faced water snake inhabits freshwater bodies, like swamps, forest ponds and streams.
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Origin / Distribution
The Puff-faced water snake (Homalopsis buccata) is distributed from India, Bangladesh and Myanmar to most of Southeast Asia, including Cambodia, Thailand, Malaysia and Singapore. In Indonesia it is present in Borneo, Sumatra and Java.
Characteristics / Appearance
The Puff-faced water snake is dark brown above, with narrow pale brown transverse bands with black edges, in young specimens of yellow color; pale head with a dark triangular or V-shaped mark on the muzzle, an A-shaped spot on the occiput and a dark band on each side that passes through the eye and extends to before the eye. The lower surface is white or yellowish, with dark brown spots along each side; the tail has brown spots. Head and body length 820 mm; tail 230 mm.
Habitat
The Puff-faced water snake inhabits freshwater bodies, like swamps, forest ponds and streams. Of nocturnal habits, feeds mainly on small fish or frogs.
Behavior
It feeds on small crustaceans, fish and amphibians, that it captures using its venom and its jaws, instead of constriction.
Threats to the species
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Minor Concern ⓘ
(UICN)ⓘ
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The Puff-faced water snake is piscivorous, so she is attracted to fish farms and, often, it is considered a pest.
This snake is frequently hunted for human consumption, for feeding farm crocodiles and leather goods. Millions of Homalopsis skins are exported to the United States and China each year.
No conservation measures are known for this species, although it is known to be present in several protected areas, including the National Park of U Mnh Thuong. Further research is needed to resolve the taxonomy of this group. It also, further research is needed on their abundance, trends and catch levels to ensure that a threat status is not triggered in the future. This species can be bred in captivity.
The "Puff-faced water snake" in captivity
Not suitable for neophytes more than anything due to the presence of medium strength venom. Caution is advised in its handling given the delicacy of the skin but, in general, its handling is quite easy.
The terrarium
Terrarium of 60 x 40 x 60 cm or even higher (it is also recommended 120 x 70 x 100 cm.), being aquatic arboreal, with a substrate of 5 cm of coconut fiber, moss and foliage that provides hiding places and greater absorption. Insertion of many plants and branches is recommended, to allow the creation of dark hiding places highly appreciated by this variety, allowing greater acclimatization and enrichment for the animal. Daily nebulizations should be abundant since these snakes love to drink both from a bowl of water and from the water deposited in the glasses or inside the terrarium..
It is a diurnal tree snake that loves to be in the low branches and in the water where it spends a lot of time..
Daytime temperature 26 – 27 °C; 23 – 24 °C at night; humidity 80/85%.
Buy one "Puff-faced water snake"
The price of a "Puff-faced water snake", in the exotic anomaly market, ranges between 100 – 150 EUR.
Videos "Puff-faced water snake"
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Alternative names:
1. Puff-faced water snake, Masked water snake (English).
2. Homalopside joufflu (French).
3. Boa-Wassertrugnatter (German).
4. Homalopsis buccata (Portuguese).
5. "Serpiente acuática enmascarada", Serpiente de agua careta, Serpiente de agua de Borneo (español).