Nelson's milksnake

- Lampropeltis triangulum nelsoni

The Nelson's milksnake (Lampropeltis triangulum nelsoni) It is named in honor of Edward W.. Nelson, who worked for the U.S.. Biological Survey desde 1890.

It is a subspecies of mousetrap coral (Lampropeltis triangulum) found in Mexico from southern Guanajuato and central Jalisco to the Pacific coast, also found in the narrow plains of northwestern Michoacán and on the Tres Marías Islands.

The Nelson's milksnake (Lampropeltis triangulum nelsoni) it is a small to medium sized snake, with a length of 91-152 centimeters, being the mean of 107-120 centimeters. like most snakes, The females are bigger than the males. These snakes have 13 and 18 wide red rings on the body, with thinner black bands and even thinner white ones.

The distribution area of ​​this snake seems to be linked to the proximity of watercourses, including those used for irrigation and agriculture.

Use a loose substrate and provide the snake with two hiding places, one on each side of the terrarium, and other decorations such as plants, remained, tubes, lianas, etc. This will not only add security to the terrarium, it will also encourage escalation. The creation of a bioactive facility, the use of a low percentage ultraviolet light during the day, and/or provision of a water dish large enough for the snake to soak in can also add enrichment.

Hideouts should be one at the cold end and one at the hot end. This allows the snake to thermoregulate, control your body temperature, while allowing her to feel safe.

An under tank heater (UTH), like a heat mat, a thermal tape or a thermal cable, it is a good heat source for king snakes. Make sure the UTH covers at least 1/3, but preferably 1/2, of floor space. Surface temperature above the UTH should be 29-32°C , and it should not go down at all at night. Ambient temperatures must be 23-28°C throughout the enclosure, and can drop to 18-21°C at night.

Humidity should be moderate: 30-50%. A wet hide box can be provided to aid in the molting process, and the general humidity can increase up to 60-70% during this time. This should be measured with a digital probe hygrometer. If the humidity is too high or too low for a long time, shedding problems or even an upper respiratory infection may occur.

Ambient temperatures should be measured with a digital probe thermometer, and surface temperatures should be measured with an infrared temperature gun. ALWAYS connect all heat sources to a thermostat or regulator to avoid burns or fires, and to be able to control the temperatures.

Don't trust glued-on analog thermometers and hygrometers, as they are notoriously inaccurate. Also avoid thermal rocks; they are known to overheat very easily and burn animals.

The Nelson's milksnake does not require UV lighting; However, a linear light 5-6% UVB is beneficial and can be used, But again, not essential. Like most herpes, they should be provided with some source of lighting during the day so that they can distinguish day from night. Natural lighting can provide it, or LED lighting can be used in the enclosure, especially if it includes live plants. Always turn off all the lights at night, including the black ones, purple or red, as lights of any color can disrupt your sleep schedule. A ceramic heat emitter can be used instead (THAT).

Unless you have a bioactive facility, cleaning the terrarium should be done whenever feces are seen. The substrate must be changed according to the instructions of the brand. Deep clean the enclosure every few months using a mixture 1:1 of white vinegar and water or other reptile-safe disinfectant.

The water bowl should be cleaned and refilled daily, and if it is emptied or soiled with substrate or excrement. All water used to spray the tank must be purified or treated, not distilled.

like all snakes, the Nelson's milksnake is an obligate carnivore. In the wild, these snakes eat small rodents, birds, amphibians, lizards and other snakes. They are not immune, but they are resistant to the venom of native snakes. Captive bred specimens readily eat frozen or thawed mice. Mice should be slightly larger than (until 1,5 times) the thickest part of the snake's body, so that it leaves a small lump after feeding; adults usually eat weaned mice. The young should eat every 5-7 days, the youth each 7-10 days and adults every 10-14 days, depending on how they maintain their body weight.

The Nelson's milksnake you should always have a bowl of clean, fresh water at your disposal. The dish should preferably be large enough for them to soak in if they wish.. No food bowl needed, but a Tupperware lid can be used during feeding to help prevent the substrate from being consumed.

Some good choices are kiln-dried pine, the coconut shell, cypress mulch, a mixture of sand and earth and orchid bark. Poplar chips can be used if the moisture is kept in a 30-40% to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria. A loose substrate must be used so that they can dig, but paper towels are a good substrate to use during quarantine.

The Nelson's milksnake they are usually very enthusiastic eaters. First of all, take into account the time you have been with her. Newly acquired snakes usually take a few weeks to eat, since moving from one place to another causes them stress. Also make sure they are cared for properly; check temperatures and humidity levels, and make sure you provide them with plenty of security by using hiding places and foliage, and covering three of the sides. They do accept live prey but not frozen/thawed, try various techniques, how brainless he is, sniffing and pre-killing, to help them switch to dead prey. If you are concerned that you are not eating due to a health problem, or if you are losing a significant amount of weight, take her to the vet.

If they are given adequate moisture and lots of different textures to rub against as they shed, they shouldn't have any problem removing everything by themselves. A wet stash box or larger water container can help. If they have retained several molt layers, give them a shallow warm bath and carefully wash them off yourself.

First of all, check the humidity levels in the enclosure and make sure they are high enough (30-50%). Next, make sure the surface or ambient temperature is not too high. If humidity and temperatures are on point, consider whether or not the snake is in the shed. If they are, they may just be soaking to help the skin come off. You may want to give them a moist hiding place during this time., so they don't have to be exposed in the water dish. If they're not in the shed, maybe they're just soaking because they like it; However, shouldn't be a constant, as it is a sign of mites or other health problems, and frequent soaking can cause scale rot. if you care, take her to the vet.

They are usually sold between 70 and 150 EUR. It is always better to buy in exhibitions, small local breeders, reputable online reptile stores or breeders, rather than chain pet stores or large-scale breeders.

1. Nelson's milksnake (English).
2. Serpent faux corail, Serpent du lait du Honduras (French).
3. Nelsons Milchschlange (German).
4. Cobra de leite de Nelson, Milksnake de Nelson (Portuguese).
5. "Falsa coral de Honduras", Falsa Coralillo, Serpiente lechera de Nelson (español).